{"title":"Washing \u0026 Cleaning — SONAX","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-shampoo-2-in-1-autoshampoo","title":"XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean and protect in one pass — SONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a 2-in-1 car shampoo actually do during a hand wash? SONAX's 2-in-1 car shampoo pairs the cleaning power of a quality car shampoo with a built-in wax component — dirt and oily residue get lifted off while a light protective layer builds up on the paint.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to skip the separate wax or sealant step after a hand wash but still keep some paint protection, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the most compact answer: one product handles both jobs — cleaning plus a baseline of paint care in a single pass. That saves time, cuts down on the number of products you juggle, and leaves you with a freshly protected surface and a silky gloss after every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e2-in-1 formula — cleaning and built-in wax protection in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The XTREME shampoo formula blends cleaning-active surfactants with wax components that settle onto the paint as you wash. Once you've rinsed and dried, the shampoo leaves a wafer-thin wax layer that makes water bead off and shields the surface against fresh dirt. This wax component isn't meant to replace a full sealant, but between your regular care intervals it gives you a solid baseline of protection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral formula for paint-friendly use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Acidic or heavily alkaline wash products attack existing wax layers and sealants and cut their lifespan short. The XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo is pH-neutral, so your existing paint protection stays intact — a big deal for anyone running a sealant or a coating who doesn't want to thin the protective layer out with every wash.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighly concentrated — economical dosing for plenty of washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e The shampoo is a concentrate you use in small amounts per wash. That makes the 1 L bottle last for lots of wash sessions and work out far cheaper than pre-diluted ready-to-use products. For a hand wash using the bucket method, a small dose of concentrate is enough for a 10 L wash bucket.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2-in-1 idea for car shampoos isn't new, but how it's pulled off varies a lot. Cheap 2-in-1 products often carry so little wax that the protective effect is barely measurable. The XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" is dialled in so the wax dose is enough to give you a real lotus effect on the paint after the wash — water pulls itself into beads and rolls off with the dirt particles instead of sheeting across the surface. That self-cleaning behaviour is the clearest proof that the 2-in-1 formula genuinely works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, go with the two-bucket method: fill one bucket with your shampoo water and a second with clean rinse water. After each panel, rinse the wash mitt out in the rinse bucket before you dip it back into the shampoo water. That way the dirt particles don't build up in the shampoo water and get dragged back onto the paint. Let the shampoo dwell on the paint for a moment — 30 to 60 seconds — to loosen road film and bug residue better before you rinse. That's when the 2-in-1 formula works best: cleaning first, then the wax laying down on an already-clean surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SONAX XTREME shampoo's 2-in-1 formula — cleaning and wax care combined\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a surfactant-wax combination that works in sequence during the wash: first the surfactants lift dirt crusts, road film and organic deposits off the surface. The wax molecules ride in the same film of wash water and settle onto the clean paint once the dirt is gone. As you rinse, the surfactants wash away while the wax components stay behind on the paint and dry in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wax component in the 2-in-1 shampoo works differently from a coat of carnauba wax or a ceramic sealant: it's much thinner and less durable, but it hands you a fresh protective film right after every wash. Wash your car weekly and you build a baseline of protection over time — every wash tops the layer back up. That's a different philosophy from the one-off long-term sealant, but it's very handy for active drivers on a regular wash cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutral formulation is the make-or-break factor for playing nicely with existing coatings. Alkaline shampoos (pH \u0026gt; 7) act as degreasers and so go after both the dirt and your wax layers and polymer sealants. If you've got an active coating or a fresh wax sealant on the car, you need to watch for pH-neutrality in your shampoo — the XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo respects the protection that's already there while building a layer of its own alongside it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars that go through the wash tunnel and then get an occasional hand wash on top, the 2-in-1 shampoo is the ideal follow-up product: the automatic wash pulls off the heavy dirt, the hand wash with the 2-in-1 shampoo takes down the leftover grime and refreshes the paint protection. That gives you an efficient care cycle that gets by without separate wax applications. It's just as good for seasonal cars given a thorough clean after winter — a first pass with the 2-in-1 shampoo is a quick way to strip the winter grip off paint and glass and lay down fresh wax protection at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the 2-in-1 shampoo — hand wash, dosing and results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow much XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo you use comes down to water temperature and how dirty the car is. For a 10 L bucket, 30–50 ml of concentrate is usually plenty — overdosing kicks up too much foam and makes rinsing a chore. Foam itself isn't a quality marker on a car shampoo — it should be enough, but not over the top. Too much foam is a sign of overdosing and can leave a slightly cloudy residue after the rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the wash, rinse the car down as completely as you can with clean water to clear off all the surfactant residue. The wax components stay on the paint through the rinse because they're hydrophobic and don't wash off with water. Once it's dry, the wax effect shows: water pulls into beads on the freshly washed paint and rolls off — a visual sign of a working wax film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDry off after the rinse with an absorbent microfibre towel. Water spots left by standing water can leave limescale behind that dulls the gloss of the fresh wax layer. A quick dry with a pro drying towel straight after the rinse heads off that limescale and shows the wash result right away: a clean, glossy car with a fresh layer of protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn dirt like bug splatter on the front end or tar spots along the sills, the 2-in-1 shampoo on its own won't always cut it. In those cases it pays to pre-treat with an insect remover or tar remover before you bring in the shampoo. The shampoo then handles the final clean and lays down the protective layer. That's the smartest division of labour: dedicated cleaners for stubborn spots, shampoo for the broad surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo fits — everyday care and the regular wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2-in-1 shampoo is the ideal everyday shampoo for anyone who washes regularly and wants to skip a separate waxing step. It's a great fit for cars driven under normal conditions — but not for cars with fresh ceramic coatings, where you don't want to lay down any foreign wax, since the wax component can interfere with the coating surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars that get detailed at regular intervals and need to stay clean and protected between the big care appointments, the 2-in-1 shampoo is the most practical solution. It extends the lifespan of an existing sealant when it's pH-neutral, and it renews a baseline of protection on its own when there's no active sealant in place. For cars driven daily in traffic and washed weekly, the 2-in-1 principle covers the whole care need with no extra products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's a good match for motorhome and camper owners too: the 1 L size travels well, the dosing is fuss-free, and the 2-in-1 principle means there's no separate wax step after the wash — handy when space and time are tight. The quick wax effect after the rinse also shields the paint against UV and light oxidation on long hauls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eXTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" compared — between a pure shampoo and a sealant shampoo\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX XTREME shampoo range, the \"2 in 1\" sits in the middle: it offers more than a pure cleaning shampoo, but less than a sealant shampoo like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/a\u003e, which lays down a lasting sealant layer. The 2-in-1 shampoo is the everyday product — practical, versatile, with an instant wax effect, but without the ambition of a long-term sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're after maximum foam fun while you wash, go for the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e — a pure cleaning shampoo with a very high foam volume that's ideal for freshly sealed cars thanks to having no wax component. For lasting sealant reinforcement with every wash, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is the pro alternative — it actively tops up SiO₂ sealants. The 2-in-1 shampoo positions itself in between: more protection than a pure shampoo, but a simpler formulation than a specialised sealant shampoo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e, the 2-in-1 product is fundamentally different: the Ceramic shampoo uses SiO₂ particles for ceramic protection and is tuned for cars with active ceramic coatings. The XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo uses classic wax components and is built for broad everyday use with no specific coating technology — simpler, but completely enough for the standard driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" — the everyday shampoo with built-in wax protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe shampoo is the go-to product for a regular hand wash when you want caring wax protection with no extra hassle. The 1 L bottle gives you plenty of wash sessions at an economical dose and is the ideal size for home use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who washes their own car regularly and wants to look after the paint protection between the bigger care intervals, the 2-in-1 shampoo is the most compact answer: one product, one step, one result — clean, protected, glossy. Team it with an absorbent microfibre towel for drying and you've got the complete everyday wash result with no extra effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to go deeper into the SONAX XTREME wash experience, you can pair the 2-in-1 shampoo with a SONAX PROFILINE drying towel for the dry-off and, now and then, a quick-sealant product for fresh deep gloss. The 2-in-1 shampoo handles the baseline supply with every wash — for special occasions a quick sealant tops up the protection. That mix of everyday care and targeted deep-care work is the most practical strategy for a car that stays looked-after long-term with minimal time on your hands.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49160877769039,"sku":"D1-SNX-02153000","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Shampoo-2-in-1-5.png?v=1721514265"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger","title":"XTREME Car Interior Cleaner Interior Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean the interior thoroughly with no residue — SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner stand out? This all-round interior cleaner tackles plastics, upholstery, headliners and the dashboard in one step — with no hazing and no greasy film left behind.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cabin is one of the trickiest cleaning jobs in detailing: within a few square metres you're dealing with wildly different surfaces — hard-plastic dashboards, fabric seat covers, soft faux-leather trim, rubber seals and textile headliners. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly this: an all-purpose cleaner that reliably handles all of them without needing a bespoke formula for every single material. That saves you time, goes easy on the budget and makes interior cleaning far simpler. The formula leaves no sticky film, no whitish residue and no haze — which matters most on dark plastics and black trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne cleaning formula for nearly every interior surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e From the dashboard to the door cards, right through to upholstery and headliners — this interior cleaner is cleared for a wide range of materials. That gives you a smooth workflow without switching between different products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNo hazing, no greasy film once it's dry.\u003c\/strong\u003e A familiar headache with interior cleaners is the slightly greasy film that stays visible on plastics after drying and makes fingerprints stand out. The XTREME Car Interior Cleaner dries residue-free and leaves a clean, matt-clear surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA fresh scent after cleaning, with no chemical smell of its own.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plenty of interior cleaners leave a harsh detergent or solvent smell that gives the cabin an unpleasant perfume. The XTREME interior cleaner has a pleasant scent and leaves a fresh feel once you're done.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spray the interior cleaner onto a slightly damp microfibre cloth — not straight onto the surface. That stops you soaking seams, panel gaps and air vents. On dashboards and door cards, work in sections: finish one area completely before you move to the next — that way nothing dries on before you get to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe interior cleaner formula — why all-round doesn't mean surface-level\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith all-purpose cleaners a lot of people picture compromise products: something that does everything a bit but nothing really well. With dedicated car interior cleaners like the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner that isn't the case — and the reason sits in the formulation chemistry. The trick is picking surfactants that work equally well on hydrophilic (water-loving) surfaces like fabric and hydrophobic (water-repelling) plastics. The blend of mild anionic surfactants and amphoteric helpers lets it lift greasy fingerprints off plastics just as well as it pulls dried-in dirt out of upholstery. The pH sits slightly alkaline — strong enough to lift organic soiling like skin oils, food remnants and everyday grime, but gentle enough not to attack surfaces. On Alcantara, though, go easy with this all-round cleaner: for targeted stains there the specialist Upholstery+Alcantara Stain Remover is the better call. The all-round product suits general deep cleaning of most interior materials, but on sensitive premium textiles a product-specific cleaner is the safer bet. On hard plastic, rubber, standard fabric and faux leather, the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is a no-reservations recommendation. It's also worth understanding that the cleaner has no care effect — it cleans but forms no protective film. If you also want to shield plastics from UV fading after cleaning, finish the workflow with a plastic dressing or cockpit detailer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn dilution: the interior cleaner comes ready-to-use and isn't diluted any further. That's deliberate — the concentration is set for direct use on the cloth. Dilute it and you risk the cleaning power falling short on heavy soiling. The other way round, there's no need to lay on an over-the-top amount either: a moderate hit on the cloth covers a full surface. Dose sparingly and you get very solid value for money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the interior cleaner right — step-by-step workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you start cleaning, it pays to give the interior a quick de-dusting. Loose dirt that's built up on trays, in the footwell and on the seats should come out first with a car vacuum. Skip that step and you risk stirring fine dust up with the cleaner and smearing it across clean surfaces instead of pulling it out. A quick vacuum before the wet clean makes the actual work far more effective and the result a lot cleaner. This prep step isn't mentioned in any product description, but it makes a big difference to the outcome.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe order of your interior clean is decisive for a good result. Always start at the top and work down: headliner first, then A\/B\/C pillars, then dashboard, then door cards, then seats, and finally the floor mats and carpets. That way dirt loosened while you clean always falls onto areas you haven't done yet, not onto freshly cleaned ones. For the dashboard: spray the cleaner onto a soft microfibre cloth and wipe with the grain of the plastic texture. On patterned or ridged surfaces a soft brush helps lift residue out of the recesses before you wipe with the cloth. For air vents and panel gaps a detailing brush or a folded microfibre cloth is ideal for working dust and dirt out of hard-to-reach spots. For seats and upholstery: the microfibre cloth should be slightly damp but not wet. On fabric upholstery you work in circular motions and dry the seat afterwards with a dry cloth, so no moisture stays behind in the padding. Door handles, control buttons and switches — every surface touched daily — get the most intensive clean, since that's where skin oils and fingerprints build up. Here the interior cleaner is especially effective, as it lifts greasy prints completely without damaging the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best result on heavily soiled vehicles we recommend a two-stage approach: first run a base clean with the interior cleaner, lifting the coarsest layers of dirt. Once it's dry, check the surfaces again and spot-clean anywhere residue is left. This second pass is far quicker than the first but delivers a much cleaner result than a single pass under time pressure. On new vehicles or regularly maintained interiors, a single pass is plenty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne more tip for working in winter: cold temperatures can slightly reduce the cleaning power, because surfactant activity is temperature-dependent. If you can, clean the interior in a heated garage or warm the vehicle up first. At room temperature the cleaner works at full strength and dries more evenly than in an ice-cold car. In summer, on the other hand, avoid cleaning the interior in direct sunlight, since the product can then dry too fast before you can wipe it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — the surfaces this interior cleaner handles\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is about smell during cleaning. Some cabins — especially after standing a long time, after winter, or in vehicles where someone has smoked — take on unpleasant odours. The interior cleaner itself doesn't remove odours from upholstery and textiles; it removes the dirt that's the source of the smell. In many cases light odours then disappear on their own. For strong smells like tobacco or pet odour, an odour neutraliser that works directly on the source helps on top. The combination of a thorough clean and targeted odour control delivers the complete result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is designed for these surfaces: hard plastics (dashboard, door cards, centre console), soft plastics (door pads, trays), rubber (seal frames, pedal pads), standard textile upholstery (fabric seat covers, carpets), faux leather and PU coatings, plus textile headliners. And the formula treats all of them the same in method and dwell time: spray onto cloth, wipe, let dry. No long dwell times, no special tools. That makes the interior cleaner especially appealing for businesses that have to turn round a lot of vehicles in a short time. A base interior clean with the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner takes about 20–40 minutes on a normal car, depending on how dirty it is and how carefully you work. If you want to finish by spot-treating individual problem stains on upholstery, reach for the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polster-alcantarafleckentferner-polsterreiniger\"\u003eXTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Stain Remover\u003c\/a\u003e for pinpoint follow-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne use case that rarely gets a mention: the product also works for cleaning boots, load areas and trim in the rear of the vehicle. Especially on SUVs, estates and vans, faux-leather or hard-plastic load areas take a real beating from dirt. The interior cleaner handles these areas just as reliably as the actual passenger compartment. Trailer interiors, motorhome trim and boat interiors are possible use cases too, as long as the surfaces fit the product's material range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles with especially light interiors — white or light-beige leather and faux leather — the usual rule applies: test on an inconspicuous spot first. Light surfaces react more sensitively to residue than dark ones. The interior cleaner is formulated residue-free, but on light surfaces a particularly careful dry-off is worthwhile to avoid any faint trace.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eInterior cleaner comparison — XTREME vs PROFILINE and specialist cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range has several interior cleaners serving different demands. The all-round everyday cleaner is ideal for beginners and occasional users: affordable, versatile, quick to use. For heavy professional use in businesses, SONAX offers the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e, which is more concentrated, available in larger containers and optimised for especially stubborn interior soiling. The PROFILINE cleaner can also be diluted — an important advantage for businesses that want to run the same cleaner at different strengths depending on the job: highly concentrated for heavily soiled vehicles at intake, more diluted for the weekly refresh. If you specifically want to clean only plastic surfaces in the interior while dressing them at the same time, the range includes the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-cockpitreiniger-matt-effect-innenraumpflege\"\u003eXTREME CockpitReiniger \"Matt-Effect\"\u003c\/a\u003e as a specialist option for plastic surfaces with a subtle care effect and a matt finish. For most private and semi-pro users the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is the right way in: the 500 ml bottle covers plenty of jobs, the price is attractive, and handling is completely fuss-free. If you want to go deeper and regularly detail vehicles professionally, you'll move to the concentrated PROFILINE products in the medium term — but as a first interior cleaning product or an add-on for getting started, the XTREME interior cleaner is spot on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's also worth watching for synergies in your own detailing kit: if you use the interior cleaner regularly, it pays to keep a dedicated upholstery cleaner for the seats and a plastic dressing for the dashboard within reach as well. The combination of cleaning, stain removal and dressing covers the complete interior workflow — fast, effective and with a professional result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, a note for anyone wondering whether the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner also suits older vehicles with faded or degraded plastics: yes, with a caveat. The product cleans reliably but can't visually restore faded surfaces — that's the job of a plastic dressing or cockpit dressing. On very old, worn-out plastics that are already roughened or porous, we recommend working especially gently and using no abrasive motions. The cleaning still works there, but the look of the plastics themselves only improves with a follow-up dressing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying recommendation — who the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is the first choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA practical question first: is the 500 ml bottle enough for a vehicle? Yes, easily — at normal dosing onto a microfibre cloth you use only a few millilitres for a full interior clean on a car. A bottle lasts many months, even with regular use. For detailing businesses working several vehicles a day, the 500 ml bottle is more of a consumable, which is why the PROFILINE version in larger containers is more economical there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want an all-round interior cleaner that delivers a reliable result without much hassle, the SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is a clear tip. It's especially suited to vehicle owners who care for their interior regularly and don't want a specialist cleaner for every surface. The 500 ml bottle is enough for plenty of full interior cleans — dose sparingly onto the cloth and it easily lasts twenty or more applications. For families with kids, who often leave dirt and food remnants in the cabin, a reliable all-round cleaner like this is a must. For used-car dealers and detailers prepping vehicles daily, the product is ideal as a standard cleaner — paired with a vacuum and a good microfibre cloth it forms the basis of every professional interior job. If you then want to finish the vehicle with a protective touch, round off the workflow with a plastic dressing for the dashboard and door cards and a textile-protection spray for the upholstery. The XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is deliberately the first step, not the last — a thoroughly cleaned interior is the precondition for any dressing step that's worth doing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone wanting to know how often the interior should be cleaned: as a rule of thumb, once a month with normal use and after every longer holiday or winter run. With intensive use — vehicles run daily for car-sharing, as company cars or in commercial passenger transport — a weekly base clean of the heavily used contact surfaces is worthwhile. If you often bring snowy or muddy shoes into the car in winter, do the floor mats more often. In summer skin-oil residue mainly builds up on the steering wheel, gear lever and door handles — here a quick weekly clean pays off to stop layers building up. Regular care keeps the effort small and the result presentable at any time.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160877834575,"sku":"D1-SNX-02212410","price":10.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Auto-Innen-Reiniger-Innenraumreiniger-0.png?v=1721514345"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-felgenreiniger-plus","title":"XTREME Wheel Cleaner PLUS","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCut through baked-on brake dust the easy way — with the SONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS do? This self-acting wheel cleaner with a colour-change indicator lifts baked-on brake dust, oil and rubber residue off every type of wheel — gentle on the material, TPMS-safe and pH-neutral.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you clean wheels regularly you already know the problem: brake dust bakes into the wheel surface under heat and plain car shampoo barely touches it. You end up with grey-brown, dingy-looking wheels that still look dirty even after a wash. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly this job — a strong specialist cleaner with a self-acting formula that chemically breaks down baked-on brake dust, oil and rubber residue plus road grime, without attacking the wheel itself. The built-in colour indicator turns reddish the moment it hits the contamination, so you can actually see when and where it's working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSelf-acting cleaning with a visual indicator.\u003c\/strong\u003e The reddish colour shift is more than a gimmick — it flags the active cleaning process and shows you exactly where brake dust and iron particles are still sitting. As long as the colour is still strong, the cleaner is working. That gives you a clear read on dwell time and stops you rinsing off too early.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe on every common wheel type.\u003c\/strong\u003e Steel, alloy, painted, chromed, polished, powder-coated or matte — the FelgenReiniger PLUS leaves all of these surfaces alone. The pH-neutral formula doesn't go after wheel bolts or valves either. That makes it a true all-rounder for any car and any wheel finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTPMS-safe and gentle on materials.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cars with a tyre-pressure monitoring system (TPMS) carry sensors at the valves that aggressive cleaners can wreck. The special formula of the FelgenReiniger PLUS is explicitly cleared for TPMS — an important detail on any newer car that plenty of rival products can't match.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the FelgenReiniger PLUS onto cool wheels — never onto hot wheels straight after a drive. A hot surface flashes the product off instantly, the indicator can't develop and cleaning power drops off a cliff. After you park up, give it at least 10–15 minutes before you start. On heavily soiled wheels with baked-on brake dust: lay it on generously, wait 5 minutes, then back it up with a soft wheel brush — that pulls residue out of the deeper spoke recesses too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSelf-acting cleaning with a colour indicator — how the XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe heart of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/strong\u003e is the self-acting formula with optimised cling. Unlike a simple surfactant in a watery solution — which runs off the wheel before it can do anything — the FelgenReiniger PLUS formula grabs onto vertical and curved wheel faces. That cling buys the product the contact time it needs to work chemically on baked-on brake dust and metal-oxide particles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe colour indicator is the visible sign of that reaction. Iron particles — the main ingredient in brake dust — react with specific actives in the formula and throw off a reddish-violet dye. This isn't artificial colouring, it's a real chemical reaction: the stronger the red, the more brake dust is there. As the colour fades, most of the iron particles are bound up and dissolved.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutral formula isn't a marketing line, it's a safety statement: the cleaner works in the neutral pH range, so it goes after neither aluminium nor steel alloys. Galvanised steel parts like wheel bolts and valves come through untouched too. More alkaline or acidic cleaners can leave clouding or corrosion on bolts and trim — with the FelgenReiniger PLUS the formula rules that risk out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on working temperature: pH-neutral iron removers are at their best at room temperature. Very cold wheels (under 5 degrees) noticeably slow the reaction down — in frost you can stretch the dwell time to 8–10 minutes to get the same result. In extreme cold, a quick warm-up of the wheel with lukewarm water from the hose helps, bringing the surface up to working temperature without heating the wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimised cling really pays off on cars with deep-dish sport wheels. That's where brake dust and oil residue love to sit — on the back of the spokes and in the barrel, spots a normal jet of water barely reaches and where a runny cleaner with no grip would slide straight off. The FelgenReiniger PLUS sticks to these vertical and overhead faces and gives the actives the time they need to work into the deposit there too. It makes a real difference on cars with deep sport wheels, where cleaning the inner sections is otherwise a proper chore.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use the FelgenReiniger PLUS properly — step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe job starts before you even spray: shake the bottle briefly and turn the nozzle to the spray position. On unknown or resprayed wheels, test material compatibility first on a hidden spot — resprayed wheels with fresh clear coat can react sensitively to the cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpray the cooled wheels evenly and wet from a short distance (15–20 cm). The key here: lay it on generously so the whole wheel face is wetted, including the back of the spokes and the barrel. Let it dwell for 3 to 5 minutes depending on how dirty things are. Watch the colour reaction — on dirtier wheels the reddish shift is clearly visible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn baked-on brake dust, back it up mechanically with a soft wheel brush. The brush spreads the cleaner evenly into the recesses and lifts residue that chemistry alone won't fully shift. Wear suitable protective gloves while you do it — prolonged skin contact with the product can cause irritation. Then rinse off thoroughly with a strong jet of water or a pressure washer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake is letting the cleaner dry on: if the dwell time runs too long or the sun beats straight onto the wet wheel, the cleaner can dry and leave white residue behind. It rinses off again with water, but it's needless extra work. So work in the shade where you can and don't push past the recommended 5-minute dwell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more tip for a smooth workflow: always work all four wheels in a loop — spray wheel 1, then wheel 2, then 3, then 4 — and start rinsing back at wheel 1. That way every wheel gets the full 3–5 minutes of dwell without you standing around waiting. It saves time and gives you even results across all four. On very heavily soiled wheels a second pass may be needed — in that case rinse the wheel, spray again and let it dwell for another 3 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBrake dust, rubber, oil — what the PLUS lifts off every wheel type\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrake dust is the most common and the most stubborn wheel contamination. It comes off the brake disc and pad as metal particles during braking and gets heated by the brake hydraulics. At several hundred degrees it literally bakes into the wheel surface. Plain surfactant-based shampoos can't touch these baked-on oxide particles — for that you need a specialist cleaner with an iron-reducing component like the FelgenReiniger PLUS.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn top of that, the cleaner lifts oil and rubber residue that settles on the inner wheel flank from tyre wear. This residue is tougher than brake dust and clings especially hard to polished or high-gloss wheels. The self-acting formula works into it and emulsifies it, so it comes away completely on the rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor painted and powder-coated wheels the FelgenReiniger PLUS is a safe bet. The pH-neutral formula attacks neither clear coats nor powder coatings — a decisive edge over acidic wheel cleaners that are built for bare aluminium and can damage painted surfaces. Chromed wheels benefit from the gentle formula too — chrome is sensitive to acids but comes through the pH-neutral treatment unharmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMatte wheels are a category of their own, where plenty of wheel cleaners fall down: products that are too aggressive change the matte surface through a chemical reaction or leave shiny patches. The FelgenReiniger PLUS is explicitly cleared for matte wheel finishes too — the gentle formula cleans without touching the matte effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor steel wheels, often found on winter sets, the FelgenReiniger PLUS is the right call as well. Steel wheels pick up a lot of grime over winter from road salt and wet roads, and it clings hard come spring. The combination of iron reaction and surfactant formula clears rust fallout along with salt and grease deposits in a single pass — ideal for the spring check on winter wheels before they go into storage or you swap back to summers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWheel cleaner comparison — PLUS, FelgenBeast and PROFILINE Red Max\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX line-up has several wheel cleaners that differ in aggressiveness, formula and use case. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eFelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e is acid-free too and works with colour-change technology. It's explicitly designed for all wheel types including painted ones and, as the direct counterpart to the FelgenReiniger PLUS, it's well known. The difference is in the detail: the FelgenBeast is tuned for regular cleaning at moderate soiling, while the FelgenReiniger PLUS with its self-acting cling formula is especially effective on heavier baked-on brake dust and clings to the surface for longer. If you clean at short intervals and never let brake dust build up too far, the FelgenBeast has you covered. If you wait longer between cleans or drive a car with sportier brakes, you'll rate the PLUS as the stronger choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pro users with extremely soiled wheels or cars going through reconditioning, there's the PROFILINE range from SONAX with higher cleaning intensity. The PROFILINE products are formulated for professional use, but they also demand more care in application and aren't suitable for every wheel type. As an XTREME product, the FelgenReiniger PLUS gives the home user the right balance of power and safety — strong enough for stubborn brake dust, safe enough for every common wheel finish without special precautions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter cleaning, a protective product makes sense: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-felgenschutzversiegelung-felgen-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Wheel Protection Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e lays down a hydrophobic barrier on the wheel after cleaning, so brake dust and dirt cling less easily next time round. If you seal your wheels after every deep clean, you cut down on how often you need to clean and stretch the time to the next intensive wheel job considerably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a wheel cleaner — who the XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for owners who want to clean their wheels regularly and thoroughly — with something that doesn't give up even on heavier baked-on brake dust. It's especially suited to cars with sporty brakes that throw off more brake dust, or cars with longer cleaning intervals where brake dust has built up over several weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners of cars with TPMS, the FelgenReiniger PLUS is the safe pick: the explicit clearance for TPMS valves takes away the worry about whether the cleaner might damage the pressure sensors. On newer cars in particular, where nearly every variant ships with TPMS, that's an important buying point.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA sensible care workflow for wheels: FelgenReiniger PLUS for the deep clean on heavier brake dust, then the XTREME Wheel Protection Sealant for lasting protection, and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-reifen-felgendetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Tyre+WheelDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e for a quick refresh between full washes. That combination keeps wheels clean and well protected with minimal effort. The clever part: if you seal the wheels after the deep clean, you'll need far less FelgenReiniger PLUS at the next interval, because the protective layer cuts down how much brake dust sticks. So the system pays off not just on looks but on the wallet too — less product used for the same or a better result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenReiniger PLUS comes in 500 ml and 750 ml spray bottles. The 500 ml bottle covers plenty of cleaning passes on a normal car — if you look after several cars or clean often, the 750 ml bottle is the more economical buy. Both sizes hold the same cleaner and the same performance, just in different container sizes. For average home use the 500 ml bottle is the more practical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the effort front, the FelgenReiniger PLUS is one of the most time-saving ways to look after wheels. Spray, dwell, rinse — no scrubbing, no repeated applications, no follow-up polish. That makes it especially appealing for owners who want to fold wheel care into their regular wash weekend without much extra fuss. In 15–20 minutes all four wheels on a car are clean and ready for the sealant to follow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS is a solid choice for anyone who wants to clean their wheels thoroughly and gently — without skimping on power, but without any risk to delicate wheel finishes. The indicator makes the action visible, the TPMS clearance makes it safe for modern cars and the pH-neutral formula makes it universally usable. The result is wheels that genuinely look clean after the wash — not just on the surface but right into the barrel. Once you've worked with a self-acting iron remover, you won't want to go back to working blind: the formula turning red on the wheel is direct feedback that the cleaner is working, and the fading colour tells you when the process is done. So wheel care stops being guesswork — it turns into a controllable, repeatable routine.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160878162255,"sku":"D1-SNX-02302090","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160878195023,"sku":"D1-SNX-02304000","price":15.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57340506538319,"sku":"D1-SNX-02305050","price":57.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Felgen-Reiniger-PLUS-750-ml-7.png?v=1721514380"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-scheibenklar-glasreiniger","title":"XTREME ScheibenKlar Glass Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eStreak-free vision on any glass — SONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar in everyday use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes a good car glass cleaner? A good glass cleaner fully dissolves greasy film, tobacco residue and smear marks without leaving residue of its own — the basic requirement for clear vision and judder-free wiping on the move.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHazy windows and smeary wiper blades are one of the most common complaints inside a car — and the cause is almost always the same enemy: greasy film. Silicone-based care products, dashboard dressings, cigarette smoke and the skin oils from touching the glass build up an invisible film that scatters light in bright sun or at night and cuts down your vision. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/strong\u003e is a glass cleaner built specifically for car windows, in a 500 ml spray bottle, that pulls greasy film, smears and deposits off the glass reliably and leaves nothing behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGrease-cutting formula for streak-free cleaning inside and out.\u003c\/strong\u003e ScheibenKlar runs a dedicated formulation that chemically breaks down greasy film, silicone residue and tobacco deposits and lifts them off completely. On the inside of the glass as well as the outside you get a clear, streak-free surface that throws no glare patches in direct sun.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast drying with no washer-fluid residue.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula dries quickly with no limescale spots or chemical residue that could get in the way of anything you apply next. That makes ScheibenKlar a solid prep step before a glass sealant, since the surface is clean and dry the moment you finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e500 ml format for regular use in everyday driving.\u003c\/strong\u003e The handy spray bottle is ideal for keeping your own car's windows clear or for professional use in valeting and detailing. The 500 ml fill lasts for plenty of cleaning rounds, so you get an economical yet regular routine without the hassle of constantly restocking.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with glass cleaning is using the same cloth for the inside and the outside of the window. Always keep separate microfibre cloths — one for the inside, one for the outside. Spray the cloth, not the glass directly, so you don't overspray onto the dashboard or paint. On the inside, wipe in diagonal passes so any streaks show up straight away and you can go back over them on the spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGreasy film and tobacco deposits on glass — the chemistry behind it, and why a household cleaner won't cut it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe greasy film on the inside of car windows comes from a mix of sources: outgassing from plastic and leather parts in the cabin, silicone-based dashboard dressings, tobacco smoke, and skin oils from touching the glass as you get in and out. This invisible film holds organic fats and siloxanes that bond firmly to the glass and can't be shifted by water alone, because grease is hydrophobic and water simply won't pick it up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHousehold glass cleaners are often only half-suited to cleaning car windows. Many of them contain ammonia or other chemicals that can damage painted or leather surfaces if you hold the bottle too close or the product spits onto surfaces that aren't built for those chemicals. On top of that, a lot of all-purpose cleaners leave limescale residue that shows up on the glass as it dries. An automotive glass cleaner like ScheibenKlar is tuned to what a car window actually needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe season makes a noticeable difference to how much cleaning you need, too. In summer, insect residue and baked-on road spray on the windscreen are the biggest challenge; in winter you add de-icer residue and salt mist that dry on at the bottom edge of the glass and leave a stubborn white film. ScheibenKlar works all year round and handles both scenarios — the formula breaks down organic residue and mineral deposits alike, so you don't need a separate summer and winter product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more critical point concerns cars with tinted windows. Cheap glass cleaners with overly aggressive solvents can damage filmed windows or factory tint by softening the film. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-scheibenklar-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/a\u003e is designed to be compatible with automotive glass, tinted windows included. The formula is gentle on window film and tint while still cleaning effectively.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA suitable glass cleaner matters for motorhomes, caravans and boats as well: acrylic and polycarbonate glazing, the kind you find in these vehicles, is more sensitive to solvent-based cleaners than classic toughened glass. For surfaces like that, go for a glass cleaner that's rated as compatible with plastic glazing. If you're not sure whether ScheibenKlar suits a particular glazing type, test it first on a small, out-of-the-way spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere to use it in the car — windscreen, interior cleaning and prep for a glass sealant\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for ScheibenKlar is cleaning the inside of the windscreen and the side windows. These surfaces collect the most greasy film, since they're the most exposed to outgassing from the cabin. Regular cleaning — at least once a month, or whenever your vision is noticeably affected, is the rule of thumb — keeps the glass clear and cuts down the smearing you get when the washer system spreads fluid across already greasy glass instead of clearing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the outside of the windscreen, ScheibenKlar is ideal for getting rid of insect residue, dirt spray and the wiper smears that rubber blades leave on dirty glass. A thorough outside clean of the windscreen makes real sense heading into the winter months, to give de-icers and glass sealants the best possible grip. Clean glass takes a sealant like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-scheibenklar-2-in-1-glasreiniger-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic ScheibenKlar \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/a\u003e far better than a grease-hazed surface ever will.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing, ScheibenKlar goes in as the pre-clean step before a glass sealant. Silicone-based glass sealants only bond properly to the glass when no greasy film is blocking the adhesion. A consistent pre-clean with ScheibenKlar makes sure the sealant reaches its full lifespan and the water beading runs evenly across the whole pane.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt dealerships and in valeting, glass cleaning is often one of the last and most telling steps before the car is handed back. A spotless windscreen with no greasy smears or streaking tells the customer at a glance that the work was done with care. Skimp on this final detail and you lose that — but get it right and you leave a lasting impression with a tool that genuinely does what it promises: crystal-clear, streak-free glass that reflects the quality of the whole job and stays in the customer's memory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTechnique for a streak-free finish — what really matters in glass cleaning\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique is what decides the result in glass cleaning. Work the glass in two passes. First pass wet — spray ScheibenKlar onto a microfibre cloth, wet the surface evenly and let the cleaner do its work. Second pass dry — buff the glass off with a second, clean microfibre cloth in crossing strokes. This two-stage approach lifts the greasy film on the first pass and clears it completely on the second.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen is the glass actually clean? A simple field test gives you the answer: look at the glass against the light, or at a shallow angle to the light source. Haze and grease residue show up straight away as a milky cloudiness that's often invisible head-on. Only once the glass looks evenly clear and transparent from every angle is the job done. This backlight check is the most reliable quality test for glass cleaning and is worth making routine at the end of every window clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe inside of the glass calls for one extra note: on big, steeply raked windscreens, cleaning the inside is awkward by design. A cleaning pad with an angled handle, or an extended reach tool that holds the microfibre cloth, makes the work easier in the corners your normal arm reach struggles with. Even, gentle pressure and deliberately overlapping diagonal strokes give you the most reliable result, and the backlight check shows you straight away and unmistakably whether any patches need going over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA pro tip for the most stubborn kind of greasy film: if a faint haze is still there after two cleaning passes, an extra pass with an IPA-soaked cloth before the ScheibenKlar step can help. IPA cuts through particularly stubborn silicone residue that normal glass cleaners don't fully break down. After the IPA cloth, go over it again as usual with ScheibenKlar — and even years-deep grease comes off as crystal-clear glass with no streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn heavily smeared glass with old, dried-on silicone residue, a second full cleaning pass may be needed. This state often builds up when no suitable glass cleaner has been used for a long time, or when silicone-based dressings like dashboard spray have spat onto the glass. Keep on top of the car regularly with ScheibenKlar and you avoid stubborn deposits forming in the first place, and save yourself those drawn-out multi-pass cleans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne spot that often gets overlooked is the rear window with its heating elements. When you clean this glass, always wipe along the heating lines — horizontally — never across them. Too much friction across the lines can damage the bond of the printed-on elements on older or already weakened cars. With a well-soaked, soft microfibre cloth and gentle pressure along the lines, the rear window cleans up without a problem too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right cloth makes a big difference to the result as well. For glass cleaning, microfibre cloths with a short, smooth pile work best, since they leave no fibres behind and give you an even cleaning surface. Cloths with a long pile, the kind that suit drying off or laying down sealants, are less suited to glass — they leave more fibres on the cleaned surface and force an extra buffing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eScheibenKlar vs. Ceramic ScheibenKlar vs. PROFILINE GlassCleaner — choosing the right glass-cleaning solution\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX glass cleaner range there are several options with different priorities. The XTREME ScheibenKlar is the all-round glass cleaner with no added sealing properties — it cleans reliably and leaves a clean surface that's ready for further care products. It's the right pick when the focus is purely on cleaning, or when a standalone glass sealant is going on next.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to build up your glass-cleaning kit step by step and cost-effectively, you can start with ScheibenKlar as the base and add the Ceramic ScheibenKlar later as a handy upgrade for cars that regularly need a glass sealant. This combination — a pure cleaner for a thorough deep clean, a 2-in-1 product for the quick refresh — covers both scenarios and gives you maximum flexibility in day-to-day work without having to invest in an overly complex range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-scheibenklar-2-in-1-glasreiniger-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic ScheibenKlar \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/a\u003e combines cleaning power with a ceramic seal in one step. For anyone who wants to save time and lay down a base seal on the glass at the same time, that's the more efficient option. The cleaning power is a touch less intense than the pure ScheibenKlar, since the formula is tuned for both jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pros with high glass-cleaning volume, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE GlassCleaner (concentrate)\u003c\/a\u003e is the more economical alternative. You dilute the concentrate to the strength you want, which brings the cost per car right down. For outfits cleaning a lot of car windows every day, the concentrate is the more professional choice over the ready-to-use ScheibenKlar in the 500 ml spray bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the XTREME ScheibenKlar is the right pick for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right pick for car owners and detailers after a reliable, all-round glass clean with no frills. The 500 ml format is ideal for the regular upkeep of one car or several, private or commercial, without needing the economics of a big pro container. If you value clear vision and want to keep haze and streaking out of your line of sight on the move, you've got a dependable tool here for the regular window routine. It's quick and easy to get the hang of — and the result shows the moment you drive into low sun or a night run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX stockist, Detailing1 carries ScheibenKlar in the range. If you want to run it as part of a full glass cleaning and care routine, Detailing1 also has every matching add-on from the SONAX line — from the pre-clean through to a long-lasting ceramic seal for car windows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor fleet operations and outfits running a lot of cars, it's worth checking whether the concentrate format of the PROFILINE GlassCleaner works out cheaper than the ready-to-use product. Across regular use on several cars, the cost difference adds up fast. ScheibenKlar, on the other hand, is the ideal pick for businesses or private users who'd rather have a simple, ready-to-go product with no diluting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the end, picking the right glass cleaner comes down to how often you use it and the result you're after. If you clean your car rarely and want maximum simplicity, ScheibenKlar has you perfectly covered. If you professionally detail a lot of cars and want to optimise both cost and result, you can build the SONAX glass cleaner range as a system — with ScheibenKlar as the standard cleaner, the Ceramic ScheibenKlar for sealant upkeep, and the concentrate for high-volume work. As a verified SONAX stockist, Detailing1 is glad to advise on putting together the right glass-cleaning range for your particular business or use case.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160878915919,"sku":"D1-SNX-02382410","price":8.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-ScheibenKlar-4.png?v=1721514350"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-richfoam-shampoo-autoshampoo","title":"XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum foam for the foam lance and 2-bucket wash — SONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo, tested in the field\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhich wash method does a Rich-Foam shampoo really shine at? It's built for the foam lance and a foam pre-wash — thick foam clings to the paint and lifts dirt gently, before sponge or wash mitt ever touch the surface.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you love your car, you know it: that first contact with water is the riskiest moment for the paint. Dirt dragged across the surface during a pre-wash with a mitt or sponge leaves swirls behind. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in right there. A pre-wash with thick, long-clinging foam pulls road film, bug splatter and loose grit off the surface before the first contact wash starts. The result is a far safer wash that keeps your paint swirl-free for the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThick, long-clinging foam for an effective pre-wash.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Rich-Foam formula is dialled in for maximum foam, whether you're running a foam lance on a pressure washer or a foam attachment on the garden hose. The foam sticks to the paint, runs off slowly and gets enough dwell time to break dirt down chemically before you rinse it away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral and coating-safe for modern protection layers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Rich-Foam shampoo won't touch wax or ceramic sealants. The pH-neutral range looks after the protection you've laid down and helps coatings, waxes and polymer sealants last. You can use it on freshly sealed cars without a second thought.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-yield concentration in 1 and 5 litres.\u003c\/strong\u003e XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo comes in 1-litre and 5-litre containers. In the foam lance you can vary the concentration — more or less shampoo depending on how dirty the car is. For high-volume operations the 5-litre container is the more economical option.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use the Rich-Foam shampoo as the first step in a low-contact pre-wash routine: lay the foam down, let it dwell for 3–5 minutes (don't let it dry), rinse off at low pressure, then carry on with the mitt and fresh shampoo in the 2-bucket method. This two-stage approach cuts down the amount of dirt you drag around during the contact wash hugely. In summer or under direct sun, shorten the dwell time, otherwise the product dries on hot paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRich-Foam formula and foam tech — why thick foam is more than just a good look\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFoam in the wash often gets written off as eye candy — loads of foam looks professional, but does it actually do more? The honest answer is: yes, but not for the reasons most people think. Cleaning power comes from the surfactants in the shampoo, not the foam itself. What thick, long-clinging foam buys you is time: it keeps the surfactant-rich shampoo on the paint longer, stretches the dwell time, and lets the chemistry break down dirt better before the rinse water carries it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a formula that, dosed right in the foam lance, produces unusually dense, coherent foam. The bubbles burst slowly — the foam stays put on the paint for several minutes instead of running straight off. That's trickier to formulate than just \"lots of soap\", because the foam has to be dense enough to cling and fine enough to lay down evenly at the same time. Coarse bubbles burst fast and spread the cleaner unevenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone running a car with a fresh ceramic coating tends to wonder whether a foam shampoo might damage it. With pH-neutral products the answer is clear: no. Alkaline shampoos with pH \u0026gt; 9 can attack the polymer structure of ceramic coatings and wear down the hydrophobic properties over time. pH-neutral products like XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo have no chemical affinity for the Si-O bonds of ceramic coatings and leave them untouched. That matters most for cars that get a professional coating regularly and need their lifespan maxed out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne detail worth knowing: compatibility with different foam-lance types. Foam lances for pressure washers (typically Kärcher, Nilfisk) build more foam density through the nozzle than foam attachments for garden hoses. The Rich-Foam shampoo works in both systems, but paired with a quality high-pressure foam lance it delivers its best. The concentration in the lance bottle should be varied between 1:5 and 1:10 depending on the model — a quick test on a small panel shows you fast which dose gives the best foam density for your gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're reaching for the Rich-Foam shampoo for the first time, start on a clean test panel to find the right dose for your own foam lance. Depending on water hardness, water pressure and lance model, the ideal mix ratio shifts. Too dilute and you get little foam; too concentrated and it dries early and leaves streaks. The dosing guide on the bottle is a good starting point, but a personal trial run gets you the best result for your specific kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the chemistry inside XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo: it uses anionic surfactants as the main cleaning component, backed up by foam-boosting additives. Anionic surfactants have a strong affinity for oily soiling like road film, grease and bug residue — the most common kinds of dirt on car paint. The surfactant molecules wrap around dirt particles and form micelles that disperse in the water and get carried off in the rinse. That mechanism works regardless of the foam — but the longer dwell time the foam gives you lets the surfactants wrap the dirt fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing Rich-Foam shampoo right — foam lance, 2-bucket method and hand wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe best approach depends on the kit you've got. With a foam lance on a pressure washer: fill the lance with shampoo diluted 1:5 to 1:10, foam the dry car from top to bottom, let it dwell 3–5 minutes, rinse off at medium pressure top to bottom. Then a normal contact wash with a fresh wash bucket and mitt. You can use the Rich-Foam shampoo for that second step too — or, for the best of both, combine it with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/a\u003e for the contact wash, which adds extra Si-Carbon care components.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the straight 2-bucket method without a foam lance: put 30–50 ml of Rich-Foam shampoo into 10 litres of water in the wash bucket, foam it up with the pressure washer or garden spray to help build the suds. Dip the mitt into the shampoo water, wash the car panel by panel from top to bottom, and rinse the mitt in the clean-water bucket between panels (two-bucket method) so you don't carry dirt back onto the paint. The Rich-Foam shampoo throws enough foam even in a classic bucket wash for a silky-smooth glide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you do seasonal washes — say the first wash after winter, when road-salt residue and thaw grime cover the underbody and wheel arches — pair the Rich-Foam shampoo with a separate underbody shampoo or engine cleaner. The Rich-Foam shampoo is built for the visible paintwork, not for scrubbing out underbody sections. Keep the jobs cleanly separated and you get the best result: Rich-Foam for the bodywork, dedicated underbody products for the rough areas underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCars with a ceramic coating or polymer sealant benefit especially from the Rich-Foam shampoo's pH-neutral formula. Alkaline shampoos used regularly can wear down a sealant's hydrophobic properties step by step — pH-neutral products keep them intact. If you wash your own car often and want a sealant to last for months, stick to pH-neutral shampoos only. The Rich-Foam shampoo is compatible with all common ceramic coatings, wax layers and polymer sealants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWash results and where it fits — what a Rich-Foam shampoo can do\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter a full Rich-Foam pre-wash and contact wash, the car comes out streak-free clean with a light wet gloss that dries down to evenly bright paint. The shampoo leaves no residue and no white streaky film — a problem some cheap shampoos throw up in hard water. The Rich-Foam shampoo is well suited to hard-water regions too, because the formulation keeps limescale settling on the paint to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor heavily soiled cars — lots of road salt in winter, heavy bug residue in summer, brake-dust build-up around the wheel arches — the Rich-Foam shampoo alone isn't enough. A chemical pre-treatment with an active cleaner or a bug remover before foaming is needed in those cases. The Rich-Foam shampoo then handles the pre-loosened dirt in the second step. As an all-weather base shampoo for regularly maintained cars with average everyday soiling, the Rich-Foam shampoo is completely up to the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne angle rarely discussed with car shampoos: the scent. In professional settings, strong-smelling shampoos can get wearing over a long day in enclosed spaces. XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo has a subtle, fresh smell of its own that won't bother you at work. That's a detail that makes a difference over hours of daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pros in the car-wash trade, the 5-litre container is an economical setup. At a dose of 50 ml per wash (foam lance), a 5-litre container covers 100 cars. That works out to about 34 cents of product per car — an order of magnitude that's easy to budget for and barely registers in the total cost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eShampoo comparison — Rich-Foam vs. Foam+Seal vs. FoamGiant vs. Ceramic Active\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME shampoo range covers different needs with different products. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure wash shampoo — maximum foam performance for a careful pre-wash, with no added sealant. If you want to top up the protection layer with every wash, reach for \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/a\u003e: it carries a polymer sealant component that goes on with every wash and builds the paint's hydrophobicity bit by bit. The trade-off: it leaves a light build-up film that can cause slight hazing with frequent use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond the differences in foam tech, surface compatibility matters too. XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo is suited to painted surfaces, chrome, glass and plastic exterior parts. For wheels, a separate wheel cleaner is the way to go, since wheels usually carry more brake dust and grease than a standard shampoo can shift efficiently. The usual day-to-day call: pre-treat the wheels with wheel cleaner first, then foam the whole car with the Rich-Foam shampoo — that way the wheel grime doesn't get carried onto the bodywork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is also built for maximum foam, but optimised for pro foam lances and pressure-pot systems. Its viscosity and concentration differ slightly from the Rich-Foam shampoo, which gives different results depending on the foam-lance type. A direct comparison on your own gear gives the best answer to which product works better for your specific kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe question of rinsing after the foam pass deserves attention too. Rinsing the foam off fully before the contact wash matters, so the mitt works on the cleanest surface possible in the second step — not on a mix of foam and the dirt trapped in it. If you're working with hard water, a very light final rinse with deionised water at the end helps avoid limescale spots when drying. But that's about drying management after the wash, not the shampoo itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo, by contrast, has a different focus: it carries Si-Carbon tech for coating-safe care and is the shampoo of choice for ceramic-coated cars that should get a Si-Carbon top-up with every wash. If you just want to wash an uncoated car clean, the Rich-Foam shampoo has you fully covered; if you want to fold coating care into the wash, the Ceramic ActiveShampoo serves you better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho the SONAX Rich-Foam Shampoo is the right pick for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Rich-Foam shampoo is the entry-level shampoo for anyone who wants to step up their wash routine with a foam pre-wash. If you own a pressure washer or a foam lance and want to cut out the swirl-creating moments of the contact wash, the Rich-Foam shampoo is the right product for the pre-wash step. It's easy to dose, versatile, and sits in a price bracket that's no financial hurdle even for regular users.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations cleaning customer cars regularly and caring about gentle paint care, the 5-litre container is the right size. The scalable dosing gives you the freedom to adjust shampoo concentration as needed — from a light routine wash to a heavier pre-clean ahead of a polishing pass. For home users without a pressure washer, the Rich-Foam shampoo in the 1-litre container is the way to go. With a simple foam attachment for the garden hose you can run a foam pre-wash without a pressure washer too — the foam density isn't quite as impressive, but it's enough for a far safer contact wash than going in without a pre-wash. Even on a parking lot with a single bucket and a microfibre wash mitt, the Rich-Foam shampoo works fine as a normal wash soap — you don't get the full foam benefit then, but the cleaning power and coating compatibility stay intact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo in both container sizes permanently in stock and recommends it as the base shampoo for any car-wash workflow that values paint-safe cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49160879702351,"sku":"D1-SNX-02483000","price":11.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":49310954193231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2485000","price":34.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-RichFoam-Shampoo-Auto-Shampoo-1-Liter-1.png?v=1721514365"},{"product_id":"sonax-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger","title":"CleanStar \"Ecocert\" interior cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean a whole interior, every surface at once — with the SONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CleanStar EcoCert do? The all-in-one interior cleaner gets every surface in the cabin clean — from glass to Alcantara to the touchscreen display — streak-free, gentle on materials, and with ECOCERT Greenlife certification.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you clean a car's interior regularly, you know the headache: one product for leather, another for plastic, a third for the glass — and the moment a delicate touchscreen or a piano-black trim panel shows up, cleaning turns into a guessing game. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with a single bottle: a mild, ready-to-use spray that gets every material in the cabin clean, with no residue, no streaks and no risk of surface damage on the sensitive bits. On top of that comes the ECOCERT Greenlife certification — a mark of quality for detailers who care about what goes into their care products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne formula for every interior surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e Glass, piano black, fabric, Alcantara, leather, plastic, touchscreen displays — the CleanStar works on all of them with no streaks, residue or discolouration. You skip the constant switching between cleaners and move through the whole cabin faster and more methodically, without giving anything up on cleaning power.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eECOCERT Greenlife certification for a clear conscience.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner is certified by ECOCERT Greenlife to the ECOCERT standard — meaning the ingredients meet defined requirements for biodegradability and environmental compatibility. For detailers who care about product responsibility, or want to win over customers with a green quality promise, that's a real difference from conventional interior cleaners with no certification.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAn odour killer, not a perfume cover-up.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner carries an active odour neutraliser that chemically breaks down unpleasant smells in the cabin — not just masking them with fragrance. After cleaning you're left with a pleasant, fresh scent that lifts the interior without feeling artificial or in-your-face. On cars with smoke or pet smells baked in, that's a difference you can actually notice.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the CleanStar straight onto a microfibre cloth, never onto the surface — that keeps overspray off the neighbouring materials and gives you far more control over how much moisture goes down. On touchscreens and piano-black surfaces work with minimal pressure and follow up straight away with a dry, clean cloth. For stubborn upholstery grime, rinse the cloth out with clean water now and then and re-spray — repeat until the cloth still looks clean as you wipe. That way you never rub dirt you've already picked up back into the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAn interior cleaner for every surface — how the CleanStar's universal formula works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost interior cleaners are tuned for one class of material: either plastic, or glass, or textiles. A true universal cleaner has to work on wildly different surfaces — from smooth, water-repellent glass and piano-black panels through porous textiles and upholstery to delicate microfibre materials like Alcantara. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls that off with a mild, pH-neutral formula that lifts dirt without swelling, bleaching or leaving residue behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic idea: the cleaner breaks the bond between dirt molecules and the surface, so you lift the loosened dirt off with the microfibre cloth instead of rubbing it deeper in. On absorbent materials like fabric or Alcantara, the streak-free drying formula stops water rings — a common problem with cleaners that carry too much surfactant and leave white rings or marks as they dry. On non-absorbent surfaces like glass or high-gloss plastic, the leftover moisture flashes off cleanly, so you get streak-free results even without a heavy second wipe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe ECOCERT certification isn't only about the green side — it's also an indirect signal about the formula itself: certified surfactants and ingredients have to meet set biodegradability and compatibility standards, which by the same token means the harshest or hardest-to-break-down chemicals are ruled out. That lowers the risk of unwanted reactions on sensitive materials — which helps explain why you can use the cleaner on so many different surfaces without specific compatibility checks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAn interior cleaner for touchscreens and piano black — what sets this one apart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSensitive areas like infotainment touchscreens, high-gloss piano-black trim and matte-lacquer surfaces call for extra care. Harsh cleaners can leave micro-damage on these: touchscreens lose their oleophobic protective layer and get harder to operate, piano black shows fine wipe marks or hazing, and matte surfaces pick up unwanted glossy spots where you rub. The CleanStar is explicitly cleared for these surfaces — the formula is mild enough that it doesn't attack protective layers or change the character of the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith touchscreens and piano black, the application technique matters as much as the product: little moisture on the cloth, minimal pressure, no circular rubbing — straight wipes parallel to the surface instead. On piano black, go for a single pass with a soft microfibre cloth, followed by a dry buffing or glass-polishing cloth. On mirror-like touchscreen displays the result comes out streak-free, as long as the cloth itself is clean and free of coarse particles — a grubby or linty cloth is the most common cause of scratches on displays and high-gloss areas, not the cleaning product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe CleanStar is especially handy for modern cars, where touchscreens on the dashboard sit alongside plastic trim, leather panels or aluminium inlays. Instead of keeping several products within reach and swapping every time the material changes, you work the whole cockpit with a single cloth and one bottle — that saves time and cuts out the classic mistake of putting the wrong product on the wrong surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAn interior cleaner for Alcantara, leather and plastic — where it earns its keep\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA modern cabin is a mix of materials: dashboard and door cards in hard plastic or soft-touch lacquer, seats in fabric, leather or Alcantara, headliner in textile, centre console in piano black or aluminium look. Add in rubber seals, carpet, steering wheel and gear knob — every material has its own surface and its own sensitivity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e covers all of it, so you can run a full interior pass without switching products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn leather, the cleaner pulls off surface dirt, greasy build-up and light stains without stripping the natural moisture out of the surface. That said: cleaning is no substitute for leather care. After cleaning with the CleanStar it makes sense to follow up with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e or a leather conditioner, to put moisture back and keep the leather supple over the long run. Clean leather hard and then skip the care, and over time you're risking it drying out and cracking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn Alcantara, the cleaner lifts grease spots, light everyday grime and odour particles without damaging or matting down the signature velour pile. The key when working Alcantara: always use little moisture and wipe in one even direction (following the pile), never rub in circles. After cleaning let it dry briefly, then brush the pile back up if needed with a dry, soft cloth or a soft brush to restore the texture. For deeper grime or stains that don't fully lift on the first pass, a second go or a dedicated upholstery stain remover may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn hard plastics, rubber surfaces and carpets the cleaner shows its strongest side: here you can lay it on with a bit more pressure and a bit more moisture, with no risk to the surface. On heavily soiled carpets or floor mats it pays to let the cleaner dwell for a moment (30–60 seconds) before you go in with the cloth — that gives it time to loosen the dirt before you lift it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eComparison: CleanStar EcoCert vs. other interior cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNext to specialised products the CleanStar has one clear edge: if you want to fully clean a car's interior, you don't need a big line-up — you just need one bottle. That makes it especially appealing for end customers who care for their car themselves, without any specific detailing background. Against the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX XTREME interior cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e, the CleanStar scores with its ECOCERT certification and its explicit clearance for piano black and touchscreens. The XTREME interior cleaner leans more towards stubborn everyday grime with no material limits, where how gentle the cleaner is matters less.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you work in a body shop or pro detailing setting and need bigger volumes, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/a\u003e is the more economical route — identical formula, available in 5, 25 and 200-litre containers that decant straight through a Sprayboy. For cars with really high-end interiors — silk leather, exotic wood inlays, carbon trim or special hard lacquers — the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e offers an even milder formula built specifically for highly sensitive surfaces, where even a mild universal cleaner is a calculated risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line on the comparison: the CleanStar EcoCert isn't a specialist, it's a dependable all-rounder. If you want the best possible result on every single material class, reach for the specialised products. If you want to clean a whole interior efficiently while risking nothing, the CleanStar has you covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX CleanStar — who is the EcoCert interior cleaner for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e in the 750 ml spray bottle is the right pick for anyone who wants to fully clean their car's cabin with one product — no compromises on delicate materials, no cutting corners on the result. It's a particularly good fit for cars with mixed interiors (leather + Alcantara + plastic + touchscreen), for owners of high-end cars who don't want to take any chances cleaning piano black or displays, and for anyone who values ecologically certified ingredients in their cleaning products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 750 ml bottle lasts for plenty of cleaning passes in everyday use — it's ready to use, goes on straight from the bottle and needs no dilution. For regular detailers or professional outfits the CleanStar in the PROFILINE canister is the more economical option. As a companion accessory we'd recommend a soft, lint-free microfibre cloth with plenty of pile — keep rough or worn cloths away to avoid scratches on delicate high-gloss areas. If you want to condition the leather surfaces after the interior clean, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the ideal next step for a complete interior care routine.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160880062799,"sku":"D1-SNX-0253400","price":8.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger_750ml.png?v=1721580255"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo","title":"XTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eEvery wash is a ceramic-protection upgrade — SONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can a car shampoo with Si-Carbon technology actually do? The Ceramic shampoo from SONAX's XTREME line lays down silicon-dioxide particles on the paint with every hand wash, building a water- and dirt-repelling ceramic protection layer as it goes — cleaning and protection in a single step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wash your car by hand regularly, you spend a lot of time at the bucket — and you get no added protection out of it when you reach for an ordinary shampoo. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e changes that equation: the 500 ml concentrate uses Si-Carbon technology to actively build ceramic protection on paint, glass, plastic and chrome while you wash. Every wash reinforces the protective film instead of just maintaining it or stripping it back. That's the conceptual difference from classic shampoos, which neither build up a coating nor actively top up an existing one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCleaning and ceramic protection in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ceramic ActiveShampoo pairs strong cleaning power with active protection build-up: while the foam pulls road grime, bug splatter and brake dust off the surface, Si-Carbon particles settle onto it. The result once it dries: a freshly washed car that beads harder than it did before the wash. No separate sealing step needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks with existing ceramic coatings and paint sealants.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ceramic ActiveShampoo is formulated so it won't attack or strip existing hard waxes, polymer sealants or ceramic coatings. Instead it tops them up: every wash lifts dirt and feeds the existing protection layer with fresh Si-Carbon particles. If you already run a coating, use this shampoo as a maintenance product that actively strengthens the coating between refreshes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGoes a long way thanks to the concentrated formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e You dose 50 ml into 10 litres of warm water — so the 500 ml bottle gives you about 10 full hand washes for a normal car. Compared with conventional shampoos at a similar dilution, the Ceramic ActiveShampoo delivers far more for the same amount: each of those 10 washes doubles as a protection top-up that an ordinary shampoo skips entirely.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ceramic ActiveShampoo does its best protection work on clean, dry paint. Always rinse heavy grime off cold before the wash — that stops loose grit from scratching the paint while you work. For maximum ceramic build-up after the wash, dry the car with an absorbent microfibre drying towel rather than letting it sheet off: drying works the Si-Carbon particles more evenly into the surface. If you want to push it even further, finish the wash with a spritz of \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e on the wet paint before it dries — that doubles the protective film for no extra effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology — how the Ceramic ActiveShampoo builds ceramic protection with every wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the backbone of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e. The term describes a formula built on silicon-dioxide particles (SiO₂) — the same base material used in professional ceramic coatings. The difference from a classic coating lies in the size and form of the particles: professional coatings use reactive SiO₂ compounds that bond chemically with the paint and form a permanently hard protection layer. The Ceramic ActiveShampoo carries smaller Si-Carbon particles suspended in the shampoo emulsion; they physically settle on the surface during the wash and form a slick, hydrophobic protection layer as the water evaporates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis deposited layer is less durable than a chemically bonded coating, but it delivers fresh protection with every wash. The system is cumulative: the more regularly you wash the car with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo, the more evenly and thickly the protective film builds. Three to five washes are usually enough to get a clearly improved lotus effect and stronger beading — comparable to a mild polymer sealant. With steady weekly washing over a few months you reach a stable protection level that lasts longer between washes than bare paint would.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow the Ceramic ActiveShampoo gets on with different surfaces matters in practice. Si-Carbon technology is designed for paint-pH compatibility — the shampoo sits in the neutral to slightly alkaline range, which suits all common automotive paints. For coated surfaces it's crucial that the shampoo carries no aggressive surfactants that would strip a coating: the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is built exactly for that — gentle enough to preserve a coating, strong enough to lift road grime. On glass, the silicon-dioxide layer also feeds the lotus effect and helps water clear the windscreen faster in the rain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misunderstanding about Si-Carbon technology: the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is no substitute for a professional ceramic coating. It can neither replicate nor replace the chemically bonded, long-term protection of a two-year coating. Its strength lies in a different concept: regular, no-fuss protection with every wash — no separate sealing step, no cure time, no special kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Ceramic ActiveShampoo — dosing, foam and the right sequence\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the Ceramic ActiveShampoo right starts with the dose: 50 ml of concentrate to 10 litres of warm water. That mix gives you enough foam for a mid-sized car and enough Si-Carbon particles for an even protection build-up. Skimping on shampoo saves product, sure, but it also drops the concentration of active ceramic particles and with it the protection — under-dosing is the most common mistake people make with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe recommended sequence: first pre-rinse the car with clean cold water to lift heavy dirt and sand grains. Then, with your mixed Ceramic ActiveShampoo and a wash mitt (lambswool or microfibre), work top to bottom — roof, windows, bonnet, sides, then sills and bumpers last. For heavily soiled areas like sills and wheel arches, keep a separate bucket of fresh shampoo solution so grit from the arches doesn't get dragged onto the paint (two-bucket method). After washing, rinse thoroughly with clean water until no shampoo is left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrying matters more with this product than with a classic shampoo: because the Si-Carbon particles stay behind on the surface as the water film evaporates, even drying is key to an even protective film. A quality microfibre drying towel with enough absorbency (at least 400 g\/m²) makes sure no water spots form that could disturb how the particles are spread. Never just let the car sheet off and air-dry after the wash if you want maximum protection — running water pulls the Si-Carbon particles into rivulets and spreads them unevenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic ActiveShampoo is strictly for hand washing — not for machine washes or the pressure washer. The heavy foaming would cause trouble in automatic wash lines; on top of that, physical application by wash mitt is needed to rub the Si-Carbon particles across the surface and work them in properly. The brushes in a drive-through wash don't give you that — the even contact pressure of the mitt is what makes the protection build up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCeramic protection through washing — beading, durability and compatibility\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most noticeable result after washing with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is the changed beading. You feel the difference on bare paint after the very first wash: water beads and clears faster, the contact angles between the droplets and the paint grow, and the lotus effect is clearly stronger than after a wash with a non-protecting shampoo. Every further wash intensifies the effect until it reaches a stable plateau — typically after three to five washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow long the protective film lasts between washes depends heavily on conditions. In normal city use (garage or carport parking, average rain exposure) the built-up film holds for two to four weeks at a level well above bare paint. With hard mileage, motorway runs that throw up bugs and stone chips, or salt exposure in winter, the film weathers faster — which makes the regular wash, the one that builds and renews protection automatically, all the more important. In that sense the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is a system: not a one-off treatment but a routine product that earns its protection through regularity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass — windscreen, side windows, tailgate — Si-Carbon technology shows a particularly handy side effect: at speeds from 60 km\/h water clears far faster, because the silicon-dioxide layer raises the contact angle between water and glass. Wash the car regularly with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo and you get better rain run-off on the glass too, with no separate glass sealant. The effect on glass is smaller than with a dedicated glass sealant, but for everyday drivers doing quick washes it's a welcome bonus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEspecially relevant for owners with existing coatings: the Ceramic ActiveShampoo won't attack hard waxes, polymer sealants or chemically bonded ceramic coatings. You can run it as a wash-maintenance shampoo on coated cars without a second thought. The Si-Carbon particles settle on the existing coating and boost its hydrophobicity between the regular refreshes. If you run a professional ceramic coating and keep it topped up, you can slot the Ceramic ActiveShampoo into the maintenance workflow as your everyday wash — no fear of compromising the pricier coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCeramic ActiveShampoo compared — vs. ordinary shampoo and vs. foam sealant\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSet against a classic shampoo with no protection components, the primary value of the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is clear: an ordinary shampoo cleans and rinses — nothing more. It builds no protection, keeps no protection, and can even knock it back a little when its surfactants temporarily change the paint's surface energy. The 500 ml Ceramic ActiveShampoo costs a bit more than a plain shampoo, but it delivers active protection at the same time. On a price-per-wash basis (about 10 washes from 500 ml) the extra cost per wash is small and the added value substantial.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal \"foam sealant\"\u003c\/a\u003e there are clear positioning differences: Foam+Seal is also a shampoo with a protection component, but it leans harder into the sealing side — it carries polymer waxes that build a thicker, more hydrophobic layer per application, though it also needs a cleaner surface for the foam to key to. The Ceramic ActiveShampoo aims its protection formula at the Si-Carbon particles and builds a finer film tuned for ceramic compatibility. If you run a coating: Ceramic ActiveShampoo. If you run no coating and want maximum sealing out of a shampoo: Foam+Seal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-richfoam-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e you get a different profile: the Rich-Foam Shampoo is all about foam volume and slickness as its primary traits — ideal for the two-bucket method and soft-wax paint care, with no active protection component. It cleans very thoroughly and suits sensitive paint especially, where leaving no residue after the rinse is what counts. The Ceramic ActiveShampoo has slightly more residue potential from the Si-Carbon particles, which are meant to stay on the surface by design — on very soft, sensitive paint or on cars you plan to polish straight after the wash, the Rich-Foam can be the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a car shampoo with ceramic protection — who the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal pick for owners who wash by hand regularly and want to build protection along the way — with no extra time for a separate sealing step. Wash your car every week or two and you invest no extra time, yet after a handful of washes you get clearly better beading and a visibly deeper gloss. For this group the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is the most efficient protection product for the effort and cost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners with existing ceramic coatings the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is the recommended pick for wash-maintenance between the yearly coating refreshes. Because the shampoo carries no aggressive surfactants and actively feeds the coating with Si-Carbon particles, regular use noticeably extends the coating's lifespan and how well it holds up. A combo of weekly washing with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo and a monthly refresh with the SONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer keeps the coating in top shape long-term, with no pricey pro applications between the regular service intervals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor new-car owners the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is an ideal way into structured paint protection: start out washing with a shampoo that actively builds protection and you end up, over the long run, with paint in better shape than someone who only starts protecting years later — by which point the surface has already oxidised deeper.\n\nWhere the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is less suited: cars washed only in automatic wash lines, and situations where the car is polished or freshly coated right after the wash — there a residue-free shampoo with no protection components is the better fit. It's also not meant for cleaning wheels, tyres and suspension parts; for those, reach for the matching specialist cleaners in the SONAX range. As a verified SONAX stockist, Detailing1 carries the XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo permanently — on its own and as part of wash-set recommendations. The product comes in the 500 ml bottle; for operations with higher wash volume it's worth buying several, since the bottle covers about 10 hand washes and the ceramic build-up keeps improving the more often you use it.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160880423247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2592000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Ceramic-Active-Shampoo-Autoshampoo-4.png?v=1721514270"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-trockenwasche-waterless-wash-detailer","title":"XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\" Detailer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean your car without water — SONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a waterless wash and when do you need it? A waterless-wash formula carries surfactants and lubricants that lift dirt particles off the surface as you spray, then trap them in the microfibre — a full car clean with no tap, no bucket and no drain.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA normal car wash means a garden hose, a bucket and somewhere for the water to drain — and for cars in underground car parks, on company premises with no water supply, or in areas where water is scarce, that's a real headache. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e takes the tap out of the equation: the 750 ml spray cleans paint, plastic, rubber, metal and glass without a single litre of water — and leaves gloss, slickness and a hydrophobic protective layer on whatever you treat. For light to medium dirt it's the fastest, most flexible way to clean a car on the move.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA full car clean with no water supply.\u003c\/strong\u003e The waterless-wash formula wraps around dirt particles as you spray and lifts them off the surface before you pick them up with the microfibre. No rubbing dry grit across the paint, no smearing particles that could leave scratches. The lubricants in the formula keep the microfibre gliding over the paint — the dirt ends up in the cloth, not as a scratch in the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGloss and beading in one pass.\u003c\/strong\u003e The spray doesn't just clean, it cares for the surface at the same time: polymers in the formula fill microscopic surface flaws and visibly deepen the colour. After treatment water beads off noticeably better than before — the waterless wash has a measurable sealing component that builds up the protective layer on the paint with every use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks across every exterior surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche suits paint, glass, plastic, rubber and metal alike. That keeps things simple day-to-day: one product for the whole exterior, no juggling separate spray bottles for different materials. On glass it leaves a streak-free, hydrophobic film — a welcome bonus for your windows with no separate glass cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never spray it straight onto heavily soiled paint — the waterless wash is built for lightly to moderately dirty cars. If there's visible sand or caked-on mud, knock the loose grit off first with a blast of compressed air or a soft dusting brush, so no hard particles drag across the paint and leave scratches as you wipe. Always spray onto a fresh microfibre cloth (never straight onto the paint) and wipe in straight, overlapping passes with light, even pressure. Keep two cloths going: one to lay the product down and pick up the dirt, one to buff. Turn or swap the application cloth after every one or two panels — a dirt-loaded cloth will scratch even with the best lubricant formula behind it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSurfactant-lubricant technology — how the waterless wash lifts dirt without water\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula behind the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e pairs two active groups that together let you clean without water. Surfactants are surface-active agents that settle at the boundary between a dirt particle and the paint: they weaken the bond between dirt and paint, lift the particles off the surface and hold them suspended in the liquid you've applied. Lubricants cut the friction between the microfibre cloth and the paint right down — the cloth fibres glide over the paint with no direct contact between the paint and the trapped grit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is exactly why the right microfibre makes or breaks a waterless wash: the fibres need to be fine enough to pull dirt particles up and lock them deep in the cloth — not hold them at the surface, where the next pass drops them back onto the paint. Quality microfibre cloths with a fibre density of at least 300–400 g\/m² and fine cross-weave patterns are far better suited to a waterless wash than thin household microfibres or terry towels. Fibre density sets the capacity — the finer and denser the weave, the more dirt stays locked in the cloth instead of coming back onto the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe polymer components in the formula handle the protection and gloss: once you've cleaned and dried, they leave a thin polymer layer on the surface that briefly masks scratches optically, intensifies the colour and makes the surface hydrophobic. This layer isn't as durable as a proper hard wax or ceramic sealant, but for everyday use it gives you enough protection between your regular care intervals. Use the waterless wash regularly and that polymer deposit adds up over time into a measurable protective film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe antistatic side effect of some waterless-wash formulas is an often-overlooked plus: spreading the polymer solution evenly over the bodywork lowers the static charge on the paint. Freshly washed cars pull in fine static dust from the friction of drying — especially in dry winter air or in the garage. The waterless wash, used regularly, knocks that charge down and keeps the paint dust-free for longer after treatment. Not every waterless-wash product does this — it depends on the polymer make-up of each formula.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important physical limit of waterless-wash technology: sand and fine mineral dust are the critical types of dirt you have to handle with real care. Sand grains have a high Mohs hardness (6–7) and can scratch paint even through the best lubricant if they get dragged mechanically across the surface as you wipe. For heavily sanded cars a conventional water pre-wash is still the safer call; the waterless wash shines on light to medium road grime and on freshly washed cars you want to refresh quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the waterless wash — microfibre, wiping passes and the critical dirt level\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe waterless-wash routine is built for efficiency: shake the bottle, spray onto a clean, fresh microfibre cloth (4–6 sprays for a medium panel like a car door), wipe across the panel in straight, overlapping passes. Always work top to bottom — the dirt travels down, not back up onto areas you've already cleaned. Go over the panel with a second clean microfibre and buff until there's no product film left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA car with four doors, bonnet, roof and tailgate takes about 15–20 minutes with this method and around 6–8 microfibre cloths (depending on size) when you do it properly. You flip the cloths to the clean side after every one or two panels and swap them once they're saturated. For a 5 Series BMW or a similar mid-size saloon, reckon on 120–180 ml of product per full treatment — so the 750 ml bottle covers 4–6 full cars, depending on dirt level and car size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDoor sills, mirror housings and exterior handles are areas a waterless wash cleans especially efficiently, since there's no run-off from the rubber seals to mop up — a classic wet-wash problem that leaves white limescale spots in the door shuts once it dries. With the waterless wash, run the cloth into the edge of the door frame, take in the rubber seal (it benefits from the care component too) and wipe the whole door entry in one go. The result: a clean door shut with no limescale marks and no wet floor inside the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTake extra care on glass: you can clean the windscreen and side windows with the waterless wash, but wipe marks on glass really show up against the light. Run the second (dry) buffing cloth over glass with the most pressure and even circular strokes until no smears are left. If you check it through sunglasses or at an angled light, you'll spot streaks earlier than in straight daylight — a handy check for professional work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhen the TrockenWäsche really plays to its strengths\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe waterless wash is the clear winner over conventional methods in certain situations — above all when you're short on time, space or water but still need a presentable car. The obvious one: cars in underground car parks or on company premises with no water supply. If you park in an office building with an underground bay, you can keep your car clean between proper washes — no car wash, no hose, no bucket needed. That flexibility makes the waterless wash the ideal companion for anyone who likes to keep on top of their car but doesn't always have a tap to hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a mobile detailing setup the waterless wash is an essential tool for between-jobs refreshes and hand-over finishes: when a car needs a final touch-up before delivery after a detail, or dust has settled on freshly detailed paint after it's stood a while, the waterless wash is quicker and gentler than going at it with another wet wash. The car is showroom-ready again in 20 minutes, without repeating the whole wash routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFrom an environmental and resource angle: a full hand wash with bucket and hose typically uses 50–150 litres of water. The waterless wash uses zero litres — a relevant point in regions with water restrictions, during dry spells, or for owners who want to cut their water use on purpose. For businesses with environmental certification requirements (e.g. ISO 14001 or similar standards) the waterless wash is a documentable step toward resource efficiency in car care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor wrapped or filmed cars the waterless wash is especially worth a look: pressure washers and aggressive shampoos can lift film edges or damage the wrap; the gentle waterless wash cleans film surfaces with no mechanical or chemical stress. Anyone caring for cars with matte film or gloss colour wraps will value the waterless wash as a daily cleaning solution that goes easy on the film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTrockenWäsche compared — XTREME vs. PROFILINE Waterless-Wash and BrilliantShine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX line has two waterless-wash versions: the XTREME and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-trockenwasche-waterless-wash\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/a\u003e. The PROFILINE version is formulated specifically for heavy, day-in day-out professional use in detailing businesses — with a higher lubricant and active content for more safety on slightly dirtier surfaces and for detailers working through plenty of cars a day. The XTREME version is the everyday product for private users and semi-pro detailers: same core technology, optimised for the 750 ml bottle format and occasional to regular home use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e is the sibling product in the quick-detailer category: it's less about cleaning and more about boosting gloss and care — ideal for cars that are already clean and just need a lift after a wash. If you wash the car wet first and then reach for a quick detailer for the finishing gloss, you grab the BrilliantShine. If you want to clean and care without water, you grab the TrockenWäsche. The two work hand in hand: the TrockenWäsche for cleaning without water, the BrilliantShine for the gloss finish after a wet wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne difference that matters in practice is how the two lines handle different temperatures: the PROFILINE version is built for professional use between 5°C and 35°C; the XTREME version takes light cold better, since the formula is tuned for broader everyday use. Below 5°C it's worth warming the spray briefly in a warm pocket — cold formulas are thicker and spread less evenly on the cloth. In frost, or with cars that are very cold, store the waterless wash inside the car rather than letting it freeze in the boot overnight, since freezing can damage the formula for good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSet against the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e, the positioning is clear: the Ceramic QuickDetailer is primarily a protection and care product with Si-carbon technology for already-clean surfaces; it's not a cleaner and isn't meant for removing dirt. The TrockenWäsche, by contrast, combines cleaning and care — less ceramic-protection depth than the Ceramic QuickDetailer, but full cleaning power without water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a waterless wash — who the TrockenWäsche is the right choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\" is the first choice for car owners with no regular water supply at their parking spot, for mobile detailers working across different locations, and for anyone who likes to refresh their car often between main washes. The 750 ml bottle is practical for single-car owners; run several cars or a professional operation and you'll do better with the PROFILINE version in larger sizes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the most care out of it: use the waterless wash as your cleaning solution for the weekly refresh, and after especially hard use (motorway runs, bad weather) add the Ceramic QuickDetailer for protection build-up. That pairing — cleaner and protection product — covers the whole care workflow without water and keeps the paint in good shape long-term. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the XTREME TrockenWäsche permanently. If you want to put together a full quick-care kit with no water supply, pair the TrockenWäsche with a set of quality microfibre cloths (at least 6–8 for one car), a soft bodywork dusting brush to knock off loose grit first, and the Ceramic QuickDetailer for final protection on the most exposed areas like the bonnet and roof. That gives you a compact, waterless care kit you can use anywhere — in the car park, at work, or out camping where there's no tap within reach.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160884650319,"sku":"D1-SNX-03264000","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-TrockenWasche-NEU-2.png?v=1721514325"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-folienreiniger-spezialreiniger-folierungen","title":"XTREME Film Cleaner Special Cleaner for Wraps","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean wraps gently and lift road grime with ease using the SONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX XTREME Film Cleaner special? This solvent- and acid-free special cleaner pulls road grime, bug splatter and bird droppings off PPF, vinyl, wraps and matte paint — with a micro-active surfactant formula that cleans hard without attacking the film.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWrapped cars are a more common sight on the road every year — and they come with their own demands at wash time. Regular car shampoo was built for clear coats, not for the delicate surface chemistry of PPF, vinyl wraps or matte paint. Wash a wrapped car with aggressive cleaners or the wrong chemistry and you risk dulling gloss wraps, discolouration along edges and seams, or adhesive bonds letting go early. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly these cars: a powerful special cleaner that lifts road grime, bug splatter, bird droppings and brake-dust film effectively — without putting any chemical strain on the wrap. The solvent- and acid-free formula keeps material compatibility high while still cleaning hard, and the 750 ml spray bottle goes straight onto the film mid-wash. For anyone who wants to look after a wrapped car properly, without leaning on aggressive all-rounders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePowerful cleaning with maximum wrap compatibility.\u003c\/strong\u003e The micro-active surfactant blend lifts typical road soiling — brake dust, road grime, bug splatter, bird droppings — effectively, without attacking the film coating. By skipping solvents and acids, the chemical integrity of every wrap type stays fully intact, even with frequent use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on every wrap type — gloss, matte, PPF and vinyl.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner performs equally well on high-gloss wraps, matte wraps, PPF (paint protection film), vinyl graphics and factory matte paint. So there's no reason to keep different cleaners around for different wrap types — one product covers the whole spectrum.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGoes straight onto the film during the wash — no drawn-out pre-treatment.\u003c\/strong\u003e The spray bottle lets you target dirty areas directly while the car is still wet. That saves time during the wash and lets you focus on problem spots like front spoilers, side skirts and bonnets without a separate cleaning pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the XTREME Film Cleaner onto the wrap while it's still wet during the wash — never onto dry or hot surfaces. The micro-active surfactants need water as a carrier to bring out the full cleaning effect. Work it in with a very soft wash mitt or a dedicated wrap wash cloth — coarse-textured sponges are wrong for film. With stubborn bug splatter it helps to let the cleaner dwell for a moment (30–60 seconds) before you work it in. After the wash, rinse thoroughly and don't let it dry on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMicro-active surfactant technology — how the film cleaner lifts dirt without damaging the wrap\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the XTREME Film Cleaner's performance is the choice of surfactant blend. Surfactants are the cleaning-active molecules in detergents and cleaners — they have a water-loving (hydrophilic) and a fat-loving (hydrophobic) end, which lets them lift dirt and grease off the surface and hold it suspended in the water. With film cleaners, though, it's not just about lifting dirt — it's about doing that without damaging the film coating. That's a tougher job than cleaning a clear coat, because film reacts more sensitively to chemistry: solvents can soften wrap adhesive, acids attack matte surfaces and shift their reflectance, and the wrong pH can loosen adhesive seams. The micro-active surfactant blend in the XTREME Film Cleaner is tuned for these demands: the molecular structure is chosen to clean hard without reacting with the film materials themselves. In practice that means no dulling of gloss wraps, no dissolving of adhesive seams and no early lifting at edges and overlaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe term \"micro-active\" describes the especially fine distribution of the surfactant molecules in the formulation. Thanks to the small molecule size, the surfactants reach deep into layers of dirt and dissolve even dried-on bug splatter and baked-on bird droppings without any mechanical force. That matters a lot with film: hard rubbing and scrubbing — the kind a clear coat might tolerate — can put fine scratches into film or permanently strain the self-healing effect on PPF. Gentle chemistry replaces mechanical force — that's the principle film cleaning is built on. Another upside of the solvent-free formulation: the product is suited to enclosed spaces and wash setups with limited ventilation, without exceeding VOC limits (volatile organic compounds). For pro detailers working in indoor spaces, that's a relevant factor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMatte paint and matte wraps put special demands on cleaning chemistry. The matte look comes from a micro-structured surface that scatters incoming light diffusely instead of reflecting it. Any chemical compound that alters that micro-structure — by softening, filling or reacting — changes the level of matteness and creates uneven gloss patches. That's why wax-based products and silicon-based sealants are wrong for matte wraps. The XTREME Film Cleaner contains no wax-like components and doesn't touch the surface structure — it cleans residue-free without changing the matte character.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the XTREME Film Cleaner properly — the ideal wash workflow for wrapped cars\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA wrapped car needs a different wash workflow than a painted one. The most important ground rule: always start with a pre-wash step that rinses off loose dirt before any cloth or mitt touches the surface. Dry sand, brake dust or coarse dirt particles dragged across the wrap create micro-scratches — especially obvious on matte wraps, and impossible to undo. A pressure washer held 20–30 cm away is ideal for the pre-rinse; a strong hose will also do to loosen loose dirt. Only after that pre-rinse does the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e come into play.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUse during the wash is deliberately simple: turn the nozzle to spray, lay the cleaner on generously over the wet film, let it dwell briefly and work it in evenly with a soft wrap wash cloth or microfibre mitt. The key is to always work flat and with light pressure — no circular motions, no force on stubborn spots. If bug splatter or bird droppings don't soften right away, give it a bit more dwell time rather than more pressure. Once it's worked in, rinse off completely. The product mustn't dry on — on hot surfaces or in direct sun it can leave residue that's hard to remove.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA typical workflow for a fully wrapped car looks like this: pre-rinse with a pressure washer or strong jet, then pre-wash the roof, boot and sides with XTREME Ceramic Active Shampoo or a wrap-safe shampoo, and in parallel treat the dirtiest areas — front bumper, bonnet, side skirts — directly with the XTREME Film Cleaner. The combination of shampoo for the base clean and the special cleaner for problem spots is especially effective on wrapped cars, because the micro-active surfactant formula cuts through the stubborn organic soiling (bugs, bird droppings) far harder than a regular shampoo. After the wash, for the best finish the car should get a follow-up with a wrap-safe detailer — for example the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foliendetailer-quick-detailer-folieru\"\u003eXTREME Film Detailer Quick Detailer for Wraps\u003c\/a\u003e, which brings gloss and beading to the cleaned surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — PPF, vinyl, matte paint and everything in between\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe world of wraps is a varied one, and the XTREME Film Cleaner is built for the whole spectrum. PPF (paint protection film) is the most technically demanding wrap variant: these clear protective films have a self-healing polyurethane surface and react sensitively to alcohol- and solvent-based cleaners, which can permanently damage the self-healing effect. The XTREME Film Cleaner's solvent-free formulation is explicitly safe for PPF — it cleans the surface without penetrating the polyurethane structure. Vinyl wraps are the most common material for full wraps and partial graphics. They're tougher than PPF, but still acid- and solvent-sensitive. Extra care is needed with clear and light-coloured vinyl wraps, which show discolouration from the wrong chemistry far more clearly than dark colours. Here too, the XTREME Film Cleaner formulation is built for material compatibility.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFactory matte paint is another category that needs special care. Manufacturers like BMW, Porsche and Audi have offered matte paint as a special finish for years — and it's extremely care-intensive. Regular waxes and polishes are off the table, because they change the matte structure. The XTREME Film Cleaner can be used on these factory matte finishes without a second thought, since it's free of wax-like components and doesn't alter the paint's micro-structure. Another use case is partial graphics — cars where only certain areas are wrapped (mirrors, roof rails, spoiler lips, A-pillars). Here the cleaner has to work both on the wrapped area and on the adjacent clear coat without leaving visible transitions. The cleaner's wrap-safe chemistry works fine on clear coat too, which makes partial graphics especially easy to handle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the trade as well — at wrap shops and detailers — the cleaner is suited to the final clean after a fresh wrap. After a new wrap there are adhesive residues, fingerprints and positioning marks left on the film that need removing. The XTREME Film Cleaner lifts these residues gently, without straining a wrap that's only a few days old and whose adhesive is still fully bonding with the substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFilm cleaner compared — special cleaner vs. regular shampoo vs. pro care with a ceramic coating\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a film cleaner: won't a regular car shampoo do the job too? The answer depends on the wrap type and how dirty it is. For moderately soiled wraps with a light dust film and water spots, a pH-neutral shampoo is perfectly fine. But the moment bug splatter, baked-on bird droppings or brake-dust film are on the film, a regular shampoo hits its limits — it simply doesn't have the cleaning power to lift these protein-based and iron-laden deposits. The XTREME Film Cleaner is the far more effective tool in exactly these situations. It lifts where a shampoo only wipes. The alternative — rubbing longer and harder with the shampoo — is a poor option on film, because mechanical strain does more harm than a stronger cleaner. When you have the choice between more chemistry and more mechanics on film, always go for the chemical route.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe comparison with a universal car-care cleaner reveals another difference: a lot of all-rounders contain wax components, silicones or polymers that bring gloss to painted cars but leave unwanted marks or gloss patches on matte wraps. The XTREME Film Cleaner has none of these additives — it cleans residue-free and leaves the sealing to a separate care product you can then pick specifically for the wrap type. After cleaning with the XTREME Film Cleaner you can apply the XTREME Film Detailer on gloss wraps; for pro long-term protection on PPF and vinyl, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-vinyl-ppf-folien\"\u003ePROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Vinyl+PPF Film Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e with up to 24 months of durability is the way to go. This combination — XTREME Film Cleaner for regular cleaning, ceramic coating for long-term protection — is the most professional approach to wrap care and maximises both the finish and the durability of the wrap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother point of comparison is the hand wash vs. the automatic car wash. As a rule, wrapped cars should never be cleaned in automatic gantry washes — the brushes can damage film, and the cleaners used there are tuned for clear-coat surfaces, not for wraps. The XTREME Film Cleaner is designed for the manual hand wash and fully replaces the car-wash visit for wrapped cars. Wash your car by hand regularly with the right cleaner and you'll get an optimal result over the long haul and avoid the typical wash damage that happens in automatic setups.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the XTREME Film Cleaner is the first choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is the baseline kit for every wrapped car — a must, not a nice-to-have. If you own a wrapped car and wash it with regular car-care products, you risk damage over time that's expensive to fix: lightened matte areas, swollen wrap edges, adhesive residue under the film. A dedicated film cleaner costs a few euros and protects an investment that, depending on the wrap, runs from a few hundred to several thousand euros. The value for money is excellent: a 750 ml bottle lasts for plenty of washes with sparing dosing, since the cleaner is only used concentrated on the dirtiest spots, while a regular wrap-safe shampoo handles the larger areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners of cars with PPF, the cleaner is especially important, because wrong care can permanently impair PPF's self-healing properties. PPF wraps quickly cost 3,000 to 6,000 euros or more for a full wrap — a care outlay of 10 euros per cleaner is an absolutely justified investment in protecting that value here. For businesses — wrap shops, car detailers, dealers with a wrapped fleet — the XTREME Film Cleaner is a working tool used daily that quickly proves itself. The simple spray application straight into the wash saves time over multi-stage cleaning processes and delivers consistent results. For the best overall result, it pays to use the film cleaner as part of a complete wrap-care workflow: pre-rinse, XTREME Film Cleaner for problem spots, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Active Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e for the base clean, drying with a suitable drying towel and finishing care with the XTREME Film Detailer. This workflow keeps a wrapped car in optimal condition for the long term and protects the wrap over its entire lifespan. At Detailing1 the XTREME Film Cleaner is available together with the right wrap-care accessories — from the right brush to wash cloths through to the follow-up sealant for pro long-term protection.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160886911311,"sku":"D1-SNX-03994000","price":7.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-FolienReiniger-Spezialreiniger-fur-Fo-8.png?v=1721514236"},{"product_id":"sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger","title":"FelgenBeast Wheel Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast lifts brake dust visibly and without attacking the wheel itself\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is SONAX FelgenBeast? An acid-free wheel cleaner with a colour-change indicator that chemically dissolves iron particles on steel, alloy and chrome wheels — TPMS-approved included. Not for freshly repainted wheels, baked-on tar, or hot surfaces straight after a drive.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/strong\u003e is an acid-free wheel cleaner from SONAX that works with a chemical indicator: the gel turns from clear to reddish-violet within 60 to 90 seconds as soon as it reacts with iron particles from the brake dust. The thioglycolate-based active binds the trivalent iron compounds and converts them into water-soluble complexes that then rinse off without residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wheel surface stays untouched through all of this, because the cleaner reacts chemically with iron only — never with clear coat, powder coating or anodised aluminium. That's what sets the FelgenBeast apart from acid-based cleaners: they work faster, but on polished aluminium or chrome they can leave irreversible etch marks. It gets especially critical on OEM diamond-cut wheels, where the slightest material loss stays visible for good and can't be polished back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_hero.png?v=1775901568\" alt=\"SONAX FelgenBeast spray bottle in front of a Porsche 911 GT3 RS wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eColour change as a real-time read-out.\u003c\/strong\u003e The reddish-violet shift shows you not just whether you've covered the whole face, but also where brake dust is still sitting in pores and spoke edges that your eye can't catch. After 3 minutes you know which spots need a second pass, and you don't have to check with a cloth afterwards to see whether the wheel is really contamination-free.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne product for your whole fleet.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FelgenBeast is approved for steel, light alloy, painted, chromed, polished and matte wheels — and fully TPMS-compatible. You don't need a second cleaner for winter wheels and a third for OEM alloys with a diamond cut. The one exception: repainted wheels that are no longer original powder-coated.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes for two kinds of user.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 1-litre spray bottle lasts a single car cleaned every two weeks around 3 months. The 5-litre canister is meant for multi-car households and pro detailers — 1 litre per set of wheels works out to roughly 20 full washes per container, which drops the price per litre noticeably.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with the FelgenBeast is laying it down on wet or hot wheels. Wet wheels dilute the gel by 30 to 50 percent — the dwell time then isn't enough to let the thioglycolate reaction run all the way through. Hot wheels straight after a drive flash the gel dry in seconds, and you end up scrubbing off cleaner residue instead of the brake dust. Wait at least 15 minutes between parking up and cleaning — it's the cheapest quality boost you can hand yourself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCold wheel. 3 minutes. A second pass.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShake the bottle, twist the nozzle open, and lay the cleaner down generously and evenly over the dry, cold wheel from 15 to 20 centimetres away. Start at the bottom and work up, because the gel clings vertically but still runs off after a while, and run marks would flash dry early. Per wheel you're looking at roughly 40 to 60 millilitres — nearer the top end on 17-inch wheels with a complex spoke face, less on plain 15-inch steel wheels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter 60 to 90 seconds the colour change kicks in. Full dwell time sits at 3 minutes, 5 at most — after that the thioglycolate is saturated and won't react any further. A common mix-up day-to-day: leaving the cleaner on for 10 minutes pulls no extra cleaning out of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQuite the opposite — the gel starts to dry on and leaves cleaner residue that means extra work at the rinse. A short second pass on the still-wet wheel is far more effective than a stretched-out dwell time on the first — that's the single most important hands-on insight, the one the maker doesn't spell out on the back of the bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo finish, rinse off with a strong jet of water or the pressure washer, top to bottom, until no reddish film runs off any more. With heavy brake dust on complex spoke patterns, a soft \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/felgenreiniger\"\u003ewheel brush\u003c\/a\u003e helps spread the gel between the spokes — not for scrubbing, just to work it in and spread the second coat evenly. In winter, when the ambient temperature drops below 10 °C, stretch the dwell time generously towards the 5-minute mark, because the reaction speed of thioglycolate falls with temperature. Above 25 °C it's the other way round: work quicker and rinse sooner, before the gel dries on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_anwendung.png?v=1775901575\" alt=\"Detailing1 applying SONAX FelgenBeast with the colour change on a wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThioglycolate dissolves iron. Bitumen, no.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn regular brake dust from road cars the FelgenBeast works very reliably — that's its home turf. The colour change tells you on top of that what kind of dirt you're dealing with: iron particles react reddish-violet, organic soiling like tar, bitumen or oil doesn't shift colour at all. So after three minutes you know whether you've even got the right tool in your hand, or whether you should switch to an APC or a tar remover instead — a diagnostic step no acid-based cleaner gives you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a second use, the FelgenBeast also works as a fallout remover on paint. After car parks next to railway lines, industrial sites or building works, fine iron particles from brake dust and rail grinding settle on the bonnet, roof and boot — often invisible to the naked eye, but instantly felt as a \"gritty\" drag in the clay bar routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn surfaces like that you spray the FelgenBeast on generously, wait out the colour change and rinse off within 5 minutes. The clear coat stays untouched as long as you don't run past the dwell time and the panel wasn't sitting in direct sun beforehand. In day-to-day Detailing1 work it's the easiest iron decontamination step before a polish, with no extra product on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe clear limits: baked-on tar and bitumen spots don't react chemically with thioglycolate — for those you need a solvent-based tar remover. And on extremely baked-on brake dust on race brake setups, or after months of neglect, a single pass can hit its limit. If you need material compatibility across every surface, stick with the FelgenBeast and plan for two passes. If you want maximum cleaning power on wheels you know are robust, the more aggressive \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE wheel cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call for the odd one-off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_ergebnis.png?v=1775901582\" alt=\"Clean Porsche GT3 RS wheel with water beading after SONAX FelgenBeast\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor the regular maintainer, not the worst case.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenBeast is the right call for anyone who looks after their wheels every one to three weeks and doesn't want to dig through three different cleaners in the garage every time they swap cars. You reach for the shelf, spray on, rinse off — done. That also makes it the logical first buy for detailing newcomers who've got no experience with material compatibility yet and can't afford a wrong product choice on polished alloys.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenBeast is especially strong in a two- or three-car household and in fleet use, where winter steel sits next to summer alloy and OEM diamond cut next to a painted spare. One cleaner for every wheel type means, day-to-day: no mix-up risk, no product swap between two cars, no debate over whether the aggressive alkaline cleaner just left marks on the chrome edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenBeast is less suited, on the other hand, when you only clean your car thoroughly once or twice a year and the brake dust has had several months to bake on. Then even the second pass won't pull it all out, because iron oxide has already worked its way into the wheel pores and needs reworking by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete solution you pair the FelgenBeast with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/reifenpflege\"\u003etyre dressing\u003c\/a\u003e to finish: decontaminate the wheel chemically first, then dress the tyre. That's the full wheel-and-tyre workflow in two steps and under 15 minutes per car — as long as you stay on it every two weeks and the brake dust never gets the chance to work itself in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn picking the size: the 1-litre spray bottle is the easy way in for a single car and comes fully ready to go with a fit-on nozzle. The 5-litre canister pays off from the second car, or at the latest in day-in day-out commercial use, because the price per litre is noticeably lower and you just decant the gel into an empty spray bottle. Store frost-free between 5 and 30 °C and use up within 24 months of opening — that keeps the colour change reliably active.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_lineup.png?v=1775901588\" alt=\"SONAX FelgenBeast 1L spray bottle and 5L canister Detailing1\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49160889925967,"sku":"D1-SNX-04333000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":49160889958735,"sku":"D1-SNX-04335000","price":48.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger.png?v=1721575164"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-cockpitreiniger-matt-effect-innenraumpflege","title":"XTREME Cockpit Cleaner \"Matt-Effect\" Interior Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCleaning and sealing a matt cockpit — with the SONAX XTREME Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX XTREME Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect do? This silicone-free interior dressing cleans, cares for and seals every plastic surface inside the cabin — no high gloss, antistatic, dust-repellent, and built specifically for matt textures and soft-touch surfaces.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've ever hit your matt dashboard with the wrong cockpit spray, you know the result: an oily, glossy surface that throws the sun back off the windscreen and pulls in even more dust after a few days than before. That's not a cleaning problem — it's a wrong-product problem. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly this case: an interior dressing that treats matt plastics the way they want to be treated — no gloss, no distracting reflections, with an antistatic protective layer and a pleasantly fresh scent. The result is an interior that looks fresh because it is fresh — not because it's been polished.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eKeeps the original matt look.\u003c\/strong\u003e Modern cockpits with finely grained dashboards and soft-touch surfaces need care that doesn't lay down a gloss film. Matt-Effect seals the surface and keeps the original fine texture — without changing the manufacturer's matt finish. That's no side detail: a lifted gloss film on the dash means reflections in your line of sight and a cockpit that no longer looks factory.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAntistatic and dust-repellent in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plastic surfaces inside the car build up a static charge and pull dust and fine particles straight in. The Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect reliably stops that static build-up — and with it the quick re-soiling. A cockpit that attracts less dust after cleaning stays clean longer. That cuts how often you clean and, over time, spares the surface all those extra passes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone- and solvent-free for safe use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone can gum up surfaces over time and cause trouble with any later paintwork. Solvents attack plastics, soft-touch coatings especially. The silicone- and solvent-free formula not only protects the surface but also suits more sensitive materials like wood trim — with no risk to the finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never spray the Cockpit Cleaner straight onto the surface — especially not near displays, air vents or switches. Put the product onto a SONAX MicrofaserPflegePad or a lint-free microfibre cloth, and work the surfaces down evenly with that. It keeps overspray off sensitive spots and lays the product down more evenly, with no streaking. Let the surface dry off for a moment afterwards — that's when the protective layer reaches its full antistatic effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMatt plastic care inside the cabin — how the Matt-Effect technology works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference between an ordinary cockpit spray and the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't in the cleaning mechanism — it's in the sealing component. Ordinary cockpit sprays, older formulas especially, often carry silicones or oily carriers that leave the cleaned surface with a silky or high-gloss sheen. Short term that reads as ‘freshly dressed’, but it comes with several downsides: silicones can trap dust, oils turn into sticky residue over time, and the gloss clashes with modern dashboards that are matt-textured from the factory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Matt-Effect formula works off a water-based carrier with no silicones or solvents. The sealing component is a thin, transparent protective layer that settles into the fine surface texture of the plastic without changing it optically. The grain stays, the matt stays — but the surface is now protected and antistatically charged. That's why the cockpit doesn't look ‘polished’ after treatment, just clean and cared for — exactly as it left the factory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe antistatic effect is where it really counts day-to-day. Plastics — soft-touch surfaces especially — are static by nature. They pull fine dust particles out of the air, often just after you've cleaned. The antistatic component in Matt-Effect neutralises that charge and keeps particles from clinging to the surface so easily. The result is measurable: a dashboard treated with Matt-Effect stays clean noticeably longer than one just wiped down with a damp cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMatt-Effect suits wood trim too. Real or artificial wood inside the cabin reacts badly to aggressive cleaners or silicone-based products — the silicone-free formula rules that risk out. The matt protective effect also fits the aesthetics of the often matt or satin wood surfaces in modern cars better than a high-gloss spray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne often-overlooked upside is reflection control. Dashboards carrying a gloss film throw light reflections up onto the windscreen in direct sun — a safety issue you can hand yourself with the wrong cockpit care. Matt-Effect stops that by design: no silicones, no gloss, no reflections. The result isn't just better looking, it matters for safety.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect properly — step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application is straightforward, but a few details make the difference. Give the bottle a quick shake before first use so all the components mix well. Turn the spray nozzle to the spray setting. Now put the product onto a SONAX MicrofaserPflegePad or a soft, lint-free cloth — not straight onto the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen work the surfaces evenly in small sections. Piling on more product buys you no extra cleaning, it just tends to leave smears. A thin, even film on the pad is plenty. Let the treated areas dry off for a moment afterwards — the protective layer and the antistatic effect build as it dries. No buffing needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant: don't use the Cockpit Cleaner on hot surfaces — in direct sun or after a long drive. The product dries too fast then and can leave smears. In the shade or on a cooled-down car you get a far more even result. Keep the Cockpit Cleaner off leather, the steering wheel, pedals and glass, as well as displays, radios and sat-navs too — those surfaces and materials differ too much from plastic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn dirt, pre-clean first with a stronger interior cleaner — more on that in the comparison chapter. Matt-Effect is no stain remover; it's a caring sealant. A combination of thorough pre-cleaning and a Matt-Effect treatment afterwards gives the best results: deep clean first, then protect and seal. This two-step approach separates cleaning and care cleanly — the cleaner can be more aggressive, because the delicate sealant only goes on in the second step. That way no cleaning power gets held back by too much dressing oil, and no sealant gets stripped straight off again by an aggressive cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe same principle holds for caring for wood trim. Dampen the pad lightly, lay it down evenly, let it dry. No dwell time, no aftercare. The product is ready to go straight away and the effort per application stays minimal — a clear plus for the regular maintenance cleaning of the interior. With regular use every two to three weeks the care builds up over time: each treatment adds to the protective layer and refreshes the antistatic effect, so the cleaning effort per session drops step by step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoft-touch, dashboard, wood — where Matt-Effect plays to its strengths\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eModern car interiors are a material mix: hard plastic, soft-touch areas, trim in brushed alu or artificial wood, sometimes real wood. That puts every care product to the question of whether it really suits all of these surfaces or just some of them. The Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect is made for every plastic surface and wood trim — explicitly including soft-touch areas, the most delicate category of all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSoft-touch surfaces have a soft, rubbery coating that's nice to the touch but reacts badly to solvents and silicone-based products. The wrong care leads to discolouration, a tacky feel or the coating slowly peeling off. Because Matt-Effect is silicone- and solvent-free, that risk drops away completely. The matt finish of the soft-touch coating stays, and the antistatic protective layer works especially well on exactly these materials, because soft-touch plastics are among the strongest dust magnets in the cabin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDashboards with a finely grained texture — the kind fitted in most mid-range and upper-class cars — gain the most from the Matt-Effect formula. The seal settles into the grain without filling it in or changing it optically. The original look is kept 100%. At the same time the little recesses in the grain, where dust and dirt love to settle, are less accessible after treatment — the antistatic effect cuts particle build-up even in hard-to-reach micro areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDoor cards, centre consoles and hard-plastic storage boxes are ideal areas too. The centre console and door-handle areas in particular are high-frequency contact surfaces that need regular care. The Matt-Effect protective layer forms a barrier here against dirt working in and makes the next clean easier — dirt clings less to the sealed surface and comes off with less effort. In cars used regularly by several people — family cars, company cars or rentals — that protection against re-soiling at these contact zones is a real day-to-day win. The antistatic effect also cuts the build-up of fingerprints and skin particles on matt plastic surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCockpit cleaner compared — Matt-Effect, Plastic Detailer and Interior Cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME range has several interior products that complement each other in function. Understanding the differences helps you pick the right one for the job at hand. First, some placing: the Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect is primarily a \u003cem\u003ecare and sealing product\u003c\/em\u003e for plastic surfaces — not an aggressive cleaner for a heavily soiled interior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eXTREME Interior Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger-cleaning counterpart. It pulls grease marks, drink residue and deep-set dirt out of plastic surfaces and fabrics — with a surfactant-based cleaning formula the Matt-Effect simply doesn't have. For heavily soiled interiors the Interior Cleaner is first choice; after cleaning, Matt-Effect is the logical second step for care and sealing. The two together cover the whole care workflow: clean thoroughly, then protect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffdetailer-innen-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eXTREME Plastic Detailer Interior+Exterior\u003c\/a\u003e is an all-rounder for every plastic part on the whole car — inside and out, engine bay included. It cares for and protects plastic and revives lightly weathered surfaces. Inside the cabin it's a good alternative when you want one product for all plastic areas. The difference from Matt-Effect: the Plastic Detailer leaves a light gloss — often wanted outside and in the engine bay, but on matt interior surfaces it can be unwelcome. For genuinely matt dashboards and soft-touch surfaces, Matt-Effect is the more precise pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an upgrade for cars with special demands on plastic protection, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-kunststoff-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e is worth a look — a ceramic coating product for plastic that lasts longer than a caring sealant. The effort and prep are higher, but the protection is more durable. Matt-Effect is the answer for regular maintenance care; the Ceramic sealant for the intensive base treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying interior care — who the SONAX XTREME Cockpit Cleaner is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for anyone who wants to care for their car's interior without changing the matt look of the surfaces. That goes especially for drivers of modern cars with finely grained dashboards, soft-touch areas and matt trim — so practically every car from the last ten to fifteen years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've been working with a conventional cockpit spray so far and notice the dash is glossing up, dusting or re-soiling fast, Matt-Effect is a direct step up. The antistatic effect is no marketing promise but a solid everyday upside: treat your interior every two to three weeks with Matt-Effect and you'll find the cleaning intervals stretch out — less dust clings and the dirt that's there comes off more easily. On top of that the protective layer builds a slightly stronger barrier with each application. It's no linear build like a ceramic coating, but over weeks of regular use there's a noticeable difference from a one-off treatment — the interior simply stays clean longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor valeters and detailers the Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect is a standard bit of kit in interior cleaning. It delivers fast, repeatable results with no streaking and no risk to sensitive surfaces. The 500 ml bottle with sprayer makes it practical for mobile work and gets you plenty of interior treatments per bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sensible combination for a full interior care: clean first with the XTREME Interior Cleaner, then seal and protect with Matt-Effect. For cars with high demands on durability, the XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant can go on as a base seal, then be maintained with regular Matt-Effect care. This system gives you cared-for plastic surfaces that look better long term and are easier to keep clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes the XTREME Cockpit Cleaner Matt-Effect a clear pick for anyone who values a well-kept car interior — no compromises on the look of the surfaces and no risk to delicate materials. Easy to use, quick in the result and suited to every common plastic surface: this is interior care the way it should work day-to-day. Once you switch to a product that genuinely respects the matt of your surfaces, you won't want a glossy cockpit spray back.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49344971800911,"sku":"D1-SNX-283241","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-cockpitreiniger-matt-effect-innenraumpflege.png?v=1721572898"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung","title":"XTREME Foam+Seal \"Foam Sealant\" car shampoo with sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWash and seal at the same time — with SONAX XTREME Foam+Seal foam sealant\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX XTREME Foam+Seal do? This 2-in-1 sealant shampoo with a foam formula cleans gently, tops up existing sealants, gives you a beading effect and speeds up drying — for foam lance and FoamSprayer.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA normal car shampoo cleans the car — and that's where the job ends. What if you could build a protective layer on the paint, or top up an existing sealant, while you wash? That's exactly what \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/strong\u003e promises: a sealant shampoo that lays a thick foam blanket over the car, lifts dirt, brings back maximum gloss and leaves behind a water- and dirt-repellent protective layer — all in a single wash step. The result: a clean car with a beading effect that also dries faster once you're done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCleans and seals in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Foam shampoo and sealant at the same time means no separate step with wax or a spray sealant after the wash. The sealant component settles onto the paint as you work and forms a hydrophobic protective layer — simple, efficient, no extra effort.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBeading effect and faster drying.\u003c\/strong\u003e The sealant layer that gets laid down makes water bead up. That's not just great to look at — it also cuts down on limescale spots from standing water and makes drying with a towel far quicker. The special drying formula speeds things up on top of that.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTops up existing sealants.\u003c\/strong\u003e If you've already protected your car with a coating or a polymer sealant, Foam+Seal works as a maintenance shampoo: the sealant components add to and reactivate the existing protective layer with every wash — no fiddly aftercare.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Foam+Seal shows its full effect when you let the foam dwell on the car for a few minutes before you go in with the wash mitt. That gives the sealant component time to settle evenly across the paint. Then rinse well — standing soap residue gets in the way of an even protective layer. For the best results, dry the car straight after the wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSealant shampoo technology — how washing and sealing work together\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe idea behind \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/strong\u003e sounds like a contradiction at first: a shampoo cleans — and in cleaning, it strips away whatever's sitting on the paint. So how can it build a protective layer at the same time? The answer is in the formulation. The sealant shampoo carries two active complexes: a surfactant-based cleaning block that lifts and emulsifies dirt, plus a polymer protection component that settles onto the paint on contact — independent of the cleaning process. Dirt and protective polymer cling to different surfaces and don't get in each other's way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam is the carrier for both components. It spreads the cleaning surfactants and the sealant polymers evenly across the car — even into spots the wash mitt never touches, deep in door handles, along spoiler edges or in panel gaps. After rinsing, the surfactants wash away with the water; the sealant polymers stay bonded to the paint and form a thin, even protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis protective layer isn't in the same league as a full polymer sealant or a ceramic coating — the film is thinner and it doesn't last as long. What Foam+Seal does is refresh the protection on a regular basis: treat the car every second or third wash with Foam+Seal and you keep a continuous base sealant on the paint that fends off the weather, dirt build-up and UV far better than unprotected paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFoam+Seal is especially interesting for cars that already run a coating. A lot of coating makers recommend specific maintenance shampoos that won't smother the coating surface with wax. Foam+Seal contains no carnauba wax components that could work against coatings — it's a pure polymer maintenance product and therefore coating-safe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother plus over separate products: if you've been washing first and then topping up with a spray wax or quick detailer, Foam+Seal saves you that second step. The time you save per wash is small — maybe 10–15 minutes — but over a year it's a noticeable relief in looking after the car, without giving up any protection. That makes it especially appealing for owners who wash consistently but don't want to get deep into detailing products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing Foam+Seal properly — foam lance, FoamSprayer and the right dwell time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best result, apply it through a foam lance on a pressure washer. Fill the concentrate into the reservoir per the maker's instructions, cover the whole car in foam and let it dwell for 3–5 minutes. Then go over it with a soft wash mitt or sponge — the foam in the mitt cuts friction and protects the paint. After that, rinse thoroughly with clean water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe hand FoamSprayer is the option without a pressure washer. It produces a fine foam that you apply straight to the car and work in with the mitt. Cleaning power is comparable; the foam blanket is a touch less dense than with the foam lance, but that doesn't matter for the sealing — the polymers settle regardless of how dense the foam is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want maximum sealing, give the car a quick rinse with clean water after washing and dry it straight away with a nanofibre drying towel — no aftercare. The protective layer is already on the paint at this point. Drying activates the sealant polymers and spreads them evenly. A car that's simply left to air-dry after a Foam+Seal wash already shows the beading effect as it dries: water pulls into droplets instead of sitting flat across the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs for application temperature: like all sealant products, the car shouldn't be treated when it's too hot or in frost. The sweet spot is between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius. In high outdoor temperatures or direct sun the foam dries too fast — the polymers then settle unevenly. Pick the shade or the cooler hours of the day for the best results. In frost, skip the product, because the polymers don't cure properly at low temperatures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical question about yield: how many washes do you get from a bottle? That depends on the size of the car and your setup. As a rule of thumb: at a normal dose for the foam lance, a standard bottle lasts well over ten full car washes — economical enough to run Foam+Seal as a regular everyday shampoo without thinking about the cost every time you wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBeading effect and protection — what Foam+Seal does day-to-day\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe first time you work with a sealant shampoo like Foam+Seal, you'll often spot an immediate beading effect after the wash. Water beads off the paint in little balls — the lotus effect of the polymer protective layer you've just applied is there right after the first wash. That effect is moderate at first and builds up over several washes with regular use: use Foam+Seal consistently and over time you accumulate a thicker polymer film on the paint that beads harder and harder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe drying formula is a detail that makes more difference day-to-day than you'd expect. You know the drill: car washed, now comes the drying — ten minutes with the towel until every panel is dry and streak-free. With the sealant layer down and the drying formula speeding things along, water runs off quicker; less of a water film stays on the paint and drying with the towel takes far less time. A small thing, but if you wash regularly you'll take every bit of saved time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant: Foam+Seal is no replacement for a full polymer sealant or a ceramic coating. The protective layer the shampoo builds with each wash is thin and holds up under normal conditions between washes. If you want lasting protection that holds for months or more, you need a dedicated sealant. Foam+Seal is the right product for the care between full sealant jobs — it maintains the protection a base sealant has built.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common misunderstanding: if the beading eases off after a few weeks without a wash, that doesn't mean the protection is gone. The thin polymer film is still there, just knocked back by dirt, water spots and UV. Another wash with Foam+Seal brings the beading effect straight back, because fresh polymers go onto the cleaned surface. That's the difference from \"using up\" a full sealant: Foam+Seal goes on fresh with every wash and builds itself back up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSealant shampoo compared — Foam+Seal, Reload Shampoo and Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME line-up has several shampoos with added protection. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo\"\u003ePROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is a sealant shampoo from the PROFILINE range and is aimed at pros who want a stronger sealant component in the shampoo — it tops up professional coatings and is built for long durability. Foam+Seal, by contrast, is more broadly accessible and made for the everyday owner who just wants to build protection simply and without extra effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e contains ceramic actives and suits cars with existing ceramic coatings especially well — it activates and tops up the ceramic surface with every wash. Foam+Seal uses polymer actives with no ceramic content, which makes it the more universal product — including for cars that aren't ceramic-sealed or have no existing sealant at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars with a fresh ceramic seal we recommend the Ceramic Active-Shampoo for maintenance. For everything else — unsealed, wax-sealed or polymer-sealed — Foam+Seal is the most effective and easiest way to build and keep protection with every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother product from a different category worth comparing is the classic spray wax, applied to the still-wet car after the wash. These often give a slightly stronger gloss and a thicker protective layer per application — but they need an extra step and an extra product. Foam+Seal makes exactly that unnecessary. Choosing between a spray wax after the wash and Foam+Seal as your wash shampoo comes down to whether you want the extra work or not. Both are valid — Foam+Seal is the more convenient one, spray wax potentially the more intense.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a sealant shampoo — who SONAX XTREME Foam+Seal is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal is ideal for owners who want to make their car care as efficient as possible: wash and protect at the same time, with no separate sealing step to plan in. It makes particular sense for drivers who wash their car weekly or every two weeks — the cumulative effect of the polymers gets noticeably better with regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars without an existing full sealant, Foam+Seal is an easy way into sealant care: no polisher needed, no involved coating, no cure times. Just use it in your normal wash and build a base protective layer every time. The result isn't in the league of a top-tier ceramic coating — but it's far better than no protection at all, with the least possible extra effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor new cars or freshly polished ones, Foam+Seal is an excellent way to protect the paint's good condition from the start, without a full sealing job. Fresh paint has no baked-in damage yet and benefits right away from protection against UV, bird droppings and industrial fallout that attack the surface with regular use. With consistent Foam+Seal use the paint stays in a condition that, even after years, is clearly better than a fully unprotected car with the same mileage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe workflow that makes sense: use Foam+Seal as your regular wash shampoo, and every two to three months add a fuller protection treatment — like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-sprayversiegelung-spruehversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic spray sealant\u003c\/a\u003e after the wash, or a quick coating. Foam+Seal keeps the base protective layer up; the top-up treatment strengthens the protection at regular intervals. It's a practical, cheap and effective alternative to an expensive full sealant for anyone who wants to protect their paint for the long haul but doesn't fancy polishing and sealing every weekend.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo if you want the best of both worlds — steady protection built through regular washing, backed up by the odd full seal — Foam+Seal as your everyday shampoo gives you a reliable base. Combining washing and protecting in one step saves time, money and effort, without dropping the protection to zero. For that use case, Foam+Seal is the sealant principle made practical: a little bit better with every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis sealant shampoo is therefore one of the smartest calls for anyone who wants to make a lasting difference to their car's protection status with a single change to the wash workflow — off the normal shampoo, onto the sealant shampoo. No extra product, no extra step, no learning curve. Just swap out the old shampoo and build in protection from the first wash. That makes Foam+Seal one of the most valuable everyday products in the detailing line-up — not because it's the strongest product, but because it's the most consistent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA final tip: start with a thorough deep-clean of the car before you use Foam+Seal for the first time — the sealant polymers settle more evenly and bond better on cleanly washed paint than on paint loaded with residue. Decontaminate and clean the car once before your first Foam+Seal wash and you start with an ideal base for continuous protection. After just the first three or four washes with Foam+Seal you'll see the difference: a beading effect that builds, water that runs off faster and paint that looks fresh and clean far longer after the rain than it used to.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49352717107535,"sku":"D1-SNX-251300","price":10.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-autoshampoo-versiegelung_1000ml.png?v=1721676692"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum","title":"PROFILINE ActiFoam \"Energy\" Cleaning Foam (Snow Foam)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eScratch-free pre-wash with SONAX ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is SONAX ActiFoam Energy? A pH-neutral snow foam cleaner (pH 6.5–7.5) from SONAX that chemically loosens bug splatter, road film and light fallout during the contactless pre-wash — without attacking wax layers, ceramic coatings or wraps. Not meant as a standalone cleaner for baked-on tar or heavy industrial fallout.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/strong\u003e is a highly concentrated cleaning foam from the SONAX PROFILINE range, whipped into a thick, clinging snow foam through a foam lance on your pressure washer. The surfactant mix of anionic and non-ionic surfactants — among them Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Lauramine Oxide — builds a creamy foam that sits on vertical panels instead of running straight off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOver a dwell time of two to five minutes, the surfactants break the bond between dirt particles and the paint. Most of the grime rinses off without contact. That cuts the risk of dragging grit like sandpaper across the paint with your mitt during the wash that follows — the real win over reaching straight for the wash mitt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-snow-foam-vorwaesche.jpg?v=1776079273\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy snow foam pre-wash on a Porsche 911\" width=\"1200\" height=\"896\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eContactless pre-clean with a stable clinging foam.\u003c\/strong\u003e The active foam lays down evenly across the whole body and clings to vertical panels for two to five minutes. In that window the surfactant formula gets under bonded road grime, bug splatter and light brake dust. The result after rinsing: a noticeably cleaner surface where the wash mitt glides with almost no resistance.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral and sealant-safe on every wash.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a pH value of 6.5 to 7.5, ActiFoam Energy leaves carnauba wax, ceramic coatings, polymer sealants and wraps untouched. That sets it apart from alkaline pre-cleaners (pH 10–13), which shorten the life of your sealant with weekly use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne litre covers 15 to 20 pre-washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e At a dose of 50 to 80 ml per foam-lance fill, a pre-wash with the 1-litre bottle costs about 0.80 EUR. With the 5-litre canister the price drops to around 0.42 EUR per use — more economical than most imported products in the snow foam segment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the foam down on a dry body, not a wet one. Dry paint gives the foam far more grip and noticeably stretches the dwell time. Above 25 °C work panel by panel and don't let the foam dry on, or it leaves residue you'll only have to scrub off later. Warm water (30–40 °C) in the foam lance pushes the cleaning power up a notch — worth it in winter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoam lance, pump sprayer or bucket. Three ways, one formula.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy works in three scenarios, each needing a different dilution. The foam lance gives the best result, but pump sprayer and hand wash do the job too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003cstrong\u003efoam lance on the pressure washer\u003c\/strong\u003e you mix 50 to 80 ml of concentrate into one litre of total volume — that's a ratio of 1:10 to 1:20. Less water (1:10) gives denser, drier foam with a longer dwell. More water (1:20) covers bigger areas but runs off vertical panels faster. Start at 1:15 and dial it in from there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003cstrong\u003epump sprayer\u003c\/strong\u003e you work with 15 to 25 ml per litre of water — ideal for targeted spots like wheel arches, door shuts or the front end full of bug splatter. As a \u003cstrong\u003ehand-wash shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e you dissolve 50 to 80 ml in a 10-litre bucket of warm water. That said, ActiFoam Energy lacks the lubricity that shampoos bring for mitt glide. For regular contact washing as your only shampoo, there are better options.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn often underrated factor in dosing is water temperature. Warm water (30–40 °C) noticeably boosts the cleaning power of the surfactants — in the foam lance and in the bucket alike. In winter, when you're working with ice-cold tap water, it pays to bump the dose up slightly or warm the water first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou get the best foam quality with an adjustable \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-powerfoamer-schaumzerstauber\"\u003efoam lance\u003c\/a\u003e at 90 to 120 bar. A cheap universal lance limits the result, not the product. To put the economy in perspective: at a dose of 60 ml per wash through the foam lance, a pre-wash with the 5-litre canister costs about 0.42 EUR. Wash one car a week and the canister carries you through a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-schaumlanze-anwendung.jpg?v=1776079277\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy applied with a foam lance\" width=\"896\" height=\"1200\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIt loosens bug splatter. Not tar.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy reliably loosens regular road grime, dried-on bug splatter and light fallout in the contactless pre-wash — that's its home turf. Especially through the summer months you save yourself the separate bug remover as a step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt hits its limits with heavily baked-on tar and hard industrial fallout. Tar doesn't react to the surfactant formula — for that you need a dedicated solvent-based tar remover. For fallout on wheels, an acidic iron remover like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e does the trick. And a snow foam never replaces the contact wash that follows — it makes it safer by pulling most of the loose particles off first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat sets ActiFoam Energy apart from plain car shampoos in the foam lance is the cleaning power in contactless mode. A shampoo is built as a lubricant for the wash mitt, not as a standalone pre-cleaner. ActiFoam Energy was formulated specifically for use as a snow foam: the phosphate-free recipe loosens even dried-on bug splatter without any mechanical work. The signature energy-drink scent is no accident but a deliberate working companion — a real comfort gain over cleaners with a sharp chemical smell, especially in closed garages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, this workflow has proven itself: lay ActiFoam Energy down over the whole body through the foam lance, bottom to top. Use the dwell time to work the wheels with a dedicated wheel cleaner in parallel. Then rinse everything off with the pressure washer — top to bottom, so the loosened dirt drains away. Only then do you bring in the wash mitt with fresh shampoo water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor prepping used cars or customer vehicles in a detailing business, ActiFoam Energy is a solid first step too: it takes off the coarse dirt, shows you which areas are really problematic, and gives you a clean baseline to judge the paint condition. Only after the pre-wash can you reliably tell whether a car needs polishing or a simple sealant will do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-ergebnis-sauberer-lack.jpg?v=1776079279\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy result, clean paint after the pre-wash\" width=\"896\" height=\"1200\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eYour way into the pre-wash routine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy sits between classic car shampoos and alkaline pre-cleaners. Stronger than a shampoo, but gentle enough for weekly use on sealed and wrapped vehicles. If you run a car with a ceramic coating, PPF film or carnauba wax, this product fits your wash routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less suited to heavily soiled workshop vehicles or the first prep of a used car after months of neglect — here you're better off with an alkaline cleaner that has more cleaning power, but you'll need to renew the sealant afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone after a shampoo for contact washing alone, with no foam lance, will find a dedicated car shampoo the better pick. ActiFoam Energy is no all-rounder — it's a specialist for the contactless pre-wash, and that's exactly where its strength lies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate comes in two sizes: a 1-litre bottle to get started and a 5-litre canister for high-volume washers and detailing businesses. The canister gives the better price per litre and covers 60 to 100 pre-washes at a weekly wash rhythm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've been working with a plain all-purpose cleaner in the foam lance before, you'll notice the difference in foam density and cling right away. Cheaper snow foams throw out plenty of foam, but it's thin and runs off vertical panels within seconds. ActiFoam Energy produces a creamy, clinging foam that holds noticeably longer even on doors and A-pillars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs your way into the SONAX PROFILINE wash workflow, you pair ActiFoam Energy with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003epaint clean-up after the wash\u003c\/a\u003e — and you've got a pre-wash routine that protects your paint and leaves it visibly cleaner before the wash mitt even comes into play. This two-step process sounds like extra effort but saves polishing work long-term, because the wash-scratch rate drops measurably — especially on dark colours, where even the finest swirls show up instantly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-1-liter-5-liter.jpg?v=1776079283\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy 1 litre and 5 litre sizes\" width=\"1200\" height=\"896\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53505264025935,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000","price":14.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505768292687,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000_2","price":29.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505768325455,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000_3","price":44.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53505264976207,"sku":"D1-SNX-6185050","price":38.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum.png?v=1730449785"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger","title":"PROFILINE MultiStar \"All-Purpose-Cleaner\" Universal Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eOne concentrate for every cleaning job — SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar do? This versatile all-purpose cleaner concentrate cuts through grease, oils, flash rust and general grime on vehicle surfaces inside and out — at a dilution you set yourself for different cleaning strengths, and in bulk containers up to 200 litres for cost-effective pro use.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn detailing businesses, wash bays and fleet care centres, the need for a reliable, cost-effective all-purpose cleaner is constant and high. Separate products for the interior, exterior paint, engine bay, wheels and machinery mean more stock to hold, frequent reorders and needless complexity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e is the universal concentrate cleaner for all of these jobs: an alkaline cleaning formula that, across different dilution levels, handles most cleaning tasks in the vehicle and workplace — and thanks to container sizes from 1 litre to 200 litres it scales economically to any operation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUniversally usable thanks to a variable dilution system.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiStar ships as a concentrate and you dilute it with water before use — the dilution rate sets the cleaning strength: low dilution (1:5 to 1:10) for heavy grime like engine oil, bitumen residue and stubborn dirt; medium dilution (1:20 to 1:50) for general vehicle cleaning; high dilution (1:50 to 1:100) for more sensitive areas such as interior plastics or lighter soiling. One concentrate, lots of uses.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAlkaline formula reliably breaks down organic contaminants.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiStar's alkaline surfactant formula is tuned to dissolve organic grime: grease, oils, brake dust, tyre rubber and general vehicle dirt are loosened and made water-soluble by the combination of an alkaline pH and active surfactants. The formula plays nicely with most common vehicle surfaces — paint, plastic, rubber, metal and textile all respond well to the cleaner when you dilute it properly.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBulk containers up to 200 litres for cost-effective pro use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Container sizes run from 1 litre for small businesses and occasional users up to 200-litre drums for large operations and wash bays. The price per litre drops sharply as the container gets bigger, which makes the MultiStar especially appealing for businesses burning through large amounts of cleaner every day. The concentrate approach also cuts transport weight and storage space considerably compared with ready-to-use cleaners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For effective use we'd keep the MultiStar ready in labelled spray bottles at different dilutions — e.g. 1:10 for engine bay and wheels, 1:30 for general exterior cleaning, 1:50 for the interior. That way the right strength is always within reach without mixing fresh every time. Don't use it on paint in direct sun or on a very hot surface — alkaline cleaners drying off fast can leave streaks. For acid-resistant grime (limescale, mineral deposits) the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call, since alkaline cleaners can't drive the acidic dissolving reactions. Always rinse thoroughly to pull off any cleaner residue — especially on paint and rubber.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eConcentrate technology — why dilution is what makes the MultiStar so flexible\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate approach of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e brings a decisive economic and logistical edge over ready-to-use cleaners: the cleaning agents (surfactants, alkalis, builders) ship in highly concentrated form and only get diluted with water at the point of use. That means a 1-litre concentrate container holds the cleaning power for 50–100 litres of ready-to-use cleaner — a 1-litre tub of concentrate cleans as much as a 50-litre tub of ready-to-use cleaner, but carries only a fraction of the weight and volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MultiStar's alkaline action rests on two mechanisms: first, the alkaline pH (typically pH 9–11 in the concentrate) raises the solubility of organic fat molecules — in an alkaline environment, fats and oils are saponified, which makes them water-soluble and easier to wipe off. Second, the surfactants wrap soil particles through micelle formation and suspend them in the watery cleaning solution, so they get carried off with the water when you rinse. This combination is very effective against most organic vehicle grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe dilution flexibility lets you use the same base cleaner for very different cleaning strengths: in the engine bay, where stubborn oil and grease come off hard, heat-resistant surfaces, a strong concentration (1:5) is right and the surfaces handle the higher alkalinity. For the cabin, where delicate plastics, textiles and Alcantara get treated, a strong dilution (1:50 or more) is needed to avoid surface damage. Getting the ratio right is the key skill — too diluted and the cleaner doesn't bite; too little diluted and it can attack surfaces or leave residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses running the MultiStar through foam lances or pressure washers, foaming behaviour matters: at the right dilution and used in snow-foam pre-wash mode, the MultiStar foams evenly and clings, which extends dwell time on dirty surfaces and improves the cleaning result. You can tune the foam consistency through the dilution and the right foam-lance nozzles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the MultiStar right — dilution ratios for every job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the MultiStar concentrate starts with the right dilution rate for the job at hand. For engine washing and heavy exterior grime: dilution 1:5 to 1:10 (10–20 % concentrate) — spray straight onto the dirty surface, let it dwell 2–3 minutes without drying off, then rinse with water. For wheel cleaning and underbody washing: dilution 1:10 to 1:20 (5–10 % concentrate) — same kind of application as the engine wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor general vehicle cleaning and pre-cleaning: dilution 1:20 to 1:50 (2–5 % concentrate) — suited as a foam-lance pre-cleaner or for hand washing with the sponge. This dilution is gentle on paint and plastic surfaces and leaves no damaging alkali residue. For interior cleaning and textiles: dilution 1:50 to 1:100 (1–2 % concentrate) — extra gentle on delicate surfaces; always test on an inconspicuous spot before going over Alcantara or sensitive coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKey application notes: always dilute the MultiStar fresh and don't store diluted solutions in spray bottles for long, since diluted alkaline solutions lose strength over time and can go off through microbial growth. When working with undiluted concentrate, watch your skin and eye protection — highly concentrated alkaline solutions can cause skin irritation. Keep the concentrate itself in dry, cool storage — undiluted and stored right, the concentrate stays stable for several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the MultiStar fits — when the all-purpose cleaner is the most efficient choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e is especially efficient in businesses that want to cover a broad range of cleaning jobs with a single product. Detailing businesses with mixed vehicle types (cars, vans, trucks) value the flexibility: one concentrate unit can handle the van's engine bay, the car's interior clean and the truck's pre-clean — each at the right dilution. Stock keeping gets simpler, ordering gets leaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFleet carers and fleet managers on regular cleaning cycles get the most out of the bulk containers: the 25-litre or 60-litre container keeps supply steady without frequent reorders, and the cheaper per-unit pricing on bulk cuts the cleaning cost per vehicle. The 200-litre drum is built for central cleaning installations where the cleaner feeds straight into machines or foam generators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with specialised cleaners like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/a\u003e — developed as an optimised pre-cleaner for cold-foam pre-washing — the MultiStar offers a wider dilution range and more uses, but in turn less specialisation on the pre-wash side. If you only do pre-washing, you're better served by the MultiClean Alkaline; if you want a single cleaner for every job, the MultiStar concentrate has you covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe MultiStar compared — all-purpose cleaner vs. specialist cleaner in the pro shop\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhether an all-purpose cleaner concentrate like the MultiStar or a range of specialist cleaners is the better call comes down to how the business is set up. An all-purpose cleaner brings simplicity, savings through bulk and flexibility — ideal for smaller to mid-sized operations that don't want to cover every cleaning job with a dedicated product. For especially demanding jobs (limescale removal → acidic cleaner, wheels heavily loaded with iron particles → dedicated wheel cleaner, sensitive displays → SensitiveSurface Detailer) specialist products are clearly superior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA proven strategy in well-set-up detailing businesses is the combination: the MultiStar as the base all-purpose cleaner for 80 % of all daily cleaning jobs, backed by one to three specialist products for the cases where the all-purpose cleaner falls short. This setup maximises economic efficiency (one main product in bulk) while keeping cleaning performance optimal for specific needs. The combination MultiStar + MultiClean Acid + a dedicated wheel cleaner, for example, fully covers the whole spectrum of alkaline and acidic cleaning needs in the vehicle space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst all-purpose cleaners from other makers, the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar offers the edge of proven system compatibility with other PROFILINE products and a professional formulation built for the specific demands of the vehicle segment. Household all-purpose cleaners are often tuned for other surfaces (floors, glass) and can leave residue or streaks on vehicle paint and sensitive plastics. The PROFILINE concentrate is tested on vehicle applications and certified accordingly for its compatibility with vehicle surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar — containers, price tiers and shop recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 1 litre, 5 litres, 10 litres, 25 litres, 60 litres and 200 litres. For single users and small businesses the 1-litre container is a manageable entry size — the concentrate goes a long way and a litre lasts a small business several weeks or months. The 5-litre container is the most economical standard size for mid-sized operations, while the 25-litre canister is the go-to for larger businesses with daily demand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe price gap between the 1-litre and 60-litre containers is considerable — per 100 ml of concentrate, the price on the 60-litre container sits well below the price on the 1-litre. For wash bays and fleet care getting through several litres of cleaner a day, the investment in the big container pays off fast. The 200-litre drum is built for industrial cleaning installations and central supply setups, where the cleaner feeds straight into dosing pumps or automatic mixing systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar is the most economical choice for businesses after a reliable, flexibly usable all-purpose cleaner in professional quality. The concentrate approach, the wide dilution flexibility and the bulk availability make it the ideal base cleaner in the PROFILINE range — backed by specialist products for particular cleaning needs.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53505896055119,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505896087887,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410_2","price":19.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505896120655,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410_3","price":29.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53505896153423,"sku":"D1-SNX-6275050","price":38.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":53505904017743,"sku":"D1-SNX-6276000","price":67.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":53505904050511,"sku":"D1-SNX-6277050","price":165.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"60 liters","offer_id":53505904083279,"sku":"D1-SNX-6278000","price":510.03,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":53505904116047,"sku":"D1-SNX-6279000","price":1582.7,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger.png?v=1730463356"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger","title":"PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max wheel cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePull off brake dust and mineral build-up the pro way — SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max do? This strong acidic pro wheel cleaner dissolves brake dust, limescale and baked-on mineral build-up from alloy and steel wheels — even on stubborn, long-term grime and without heavy scrubbing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing shops and reconditioning outfits that clean heavily soiled wheels day in, day out, standard wheel cleaners hit their limit fast: baked-on brake dust made of iron particles, mineral limescale from hard water and polymerised road grime sit deep in the pores of the aluminium surface and won't come off fully with neutral or mild alkaline cleaners. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e is the acidic maximum-strength formula for exactly this job: a powerful, acidic-pH blend built specifically for heavy daily pro use in large containers (5 litre, 25 litre, 200 litre) that reliably cuts through stubborn wheel contamination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum acidic cleaning power for heavy-duty grime.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Red Max is the strongest option in the PROFILINE wheel cleaner range: with an acidic pH it dissolves mineral deposits (limescale, oxides) chemically through an acid-base reaction, while the powerful surfactant blend loosens brake dust and oil-grime mixtures and lifts them off the wheel surface. The result is a deep cleaning action that keeps mechanical scrubbing to a minimum and noticeably shortens the working time per vehicle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for heavy daily pro use in bulk containers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Red Max comes in pro containers only — 5 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre — and is aimed at detailing shops, wash bays and fleet care outfits that clean lots of vehicles a day and need an economical, concentrated cleaner. Buying it in bulk means consistent product quality at a low price per litre and fewer stock top-ups.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEffective against brake dust, limescale and road grime on aluminium and steel.\u003c\/strong\u003e Through braking, alloy wheels pick up iron particles from brake discs and pads that bake on and can't be removed without acidic chemistry. Limescale from hard water builds up especially on vehicles that get washed regularly but never fully dried. The Red Max targets both types of contamination and leaves a clean, even wheel surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the Red Max down on cool wheels out of direct sun — on hot metal the dwell time drops sharply and the product can dry out before it works. Pre-rinse the wheel, spray or wipe the cleaner on, let it dwell for 2–5 minutes — don't let it dry — then rinse thoroughly. For heavily baked-on residue, back the dwell step up with a soft wheel brush to mechanically free the loosened residue from recesses and hubs. On unanodised aluminium surfaces, keep an eye on the dwell time — too long a contact can dull the aluminium. After the acidic clean we recommend a rinse step with clean water and, if needed, a finishing treatment with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e as a maintenance product for regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcid chemistry in a wheel cleaner — how the Red Max dissolves mineral build-up and brake dust\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe working principle of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e is based on a combined acidic and surfactant-active formula: the acidic component attacks mineral compounds by breaking down the crystalline structure of limescale and oxide deposits — calcium and magnesium carbonate (limescale) react with the acid and turn into water-soluble salts that rinse off easily. Aluminium oxide deposits (corrosion products on alloy wheels) are likewise loosened by the acid reaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIron particles from brake dust are, chemically speaking, iron oxide (rust) or metallic iron that has baked into the surface structure of the wheel. Acids dissolve iron compounds through a different reaction: metallic iron and iron oxides react with strong acids, releasing iron salts that are water-soluble and get carried off during rinsing. The combined action of acid and surfactants makes sure the greasy phase of the brake dust residue (brake caliper oil, road grime) is loosened and lifted off the surface at the same time — a purely acidic formula without surfactants would only dissolve the mineral component and leave the organic dirt behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"Red Max\" name points to the maximum concentration within the PROFILINE wheel cleaner line: compared to the regular \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e (positioned as a milder maintenance solution), the Red Max is built for situations where normal cleaners are out of their depth — heavily soiled wheels after long cleaning intervals, vehicles with mineral-rich water residue, or commercial tyre service outfits cleaning lots of wheels a day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe formulation is dialled in for use on aluminium and steel wheels. Aluminium handles acids well in a controlled concentration and with limited dwell time — too long a dwell can strip the natural oxide protection layer of the aluminium too far, leading to dulling or an uneven surface. This effect is stronger on smooth, unpainted wheels than on powder-coated or painted wheels, which are protected by the coating. For pro use that means: keep an eye on the dwell time, don't let it dry, rinse off fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FelgenReiniger Red Max properly — dosing, dwell time and safety\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the acidic pro wheel cleaner takes a bit of prep and care to get the best results and avoid material damage. Step 1 — prep: move the vehicle to an area where the wheels aren't in direct sunlight. Pre-rinse the wheels with clean water to get rid of loose dirt and loose particles that would otherwise act like scratching abrasives during the cleaning process. Check the wheel temperature: the wheels have to be cool (under 40 °C), which is a regular problem on freshly driven vehicles — hot wheels let the cleaner dry out too fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 2 — application: spray the Red Max evenly onto all wheel surfaces with a spray bottle — face, spokes, hub centre and barrel. With 5-litre containers a separate spray bottle filled from the container is the way to go, to keep dosing controlled. The dwell time is typically 2–5 minutes, depending on how dirty the wheel is. During the dwell the cleaner should stay visibly wet — if it dries, re-wet it right away, since dried-on acidic cleaner is harder to rinse and can attack the wheel surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 3 — mechanical help and rinsing: for heavily baked-on brake dust or hardened limescale, use a soft wheel brush to mechanically free the loosened residue in recesses, around bolt holes and between spokes. Then rinse thoroughly with clean water — fully removing all acid residue matters, since even small amounts of acid left dwelling on aluminium can trigger corrosion or dulling. With strongly acidic waste water, follow the local waste water regulations — professional wash bays have neutralisation systems for acidic effluent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePersonal protective equipment: when working with concentrated acidic wheel cleaner, protective gloves and, for intensive use, safety goggles are a good idea. That goes especially for the 25-litre and 200-litre containers, where you're handling larger quantities. For automatic cleaning machines and water systems, check compatibility with the material of the system before use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the Red Max is used — wheel types and levels of grime\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e suits a broad range of wheel types and grime scenarios. Alloy wheels (cast and forged), whether painted, polished or powder-coated, respond well to the acidic clean — but on polished or untreated aluminium wheels (bare aluminium) the dwell time should be capped at 3 minutes max, so you don't risk dulling the polished surfaces. Powder-coated and painted wheels handle the acidic formula well, since the protective layer isolates the aluminium from direct acid contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSteel wheels (winter wheels, commercial vehicle wheels) can be cleaned with the Red Max too — here the acidic formula is less critical, since steel is less reactive to acids than aluminium. On steel wheels with rust on the inner face, the Red Max loosens the surface rust, which becomes visible (orange residue when rinsing). For the outer face of chrome wheels we recommend keeping the dwell time to 1–2 minutes and rinsing especially thoroughly, since chrome can go dull under long acid contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn commercial use the Red Max is especially efficient for wash bays, tyre service outfits and fleet care businesses that clean lots of vehicles a day. The bulk availability (25 litre and 200 litre) lets it slot fully into existing cleaning workflows. A common case is cleaning van fleets and truck wheels, which get especially heavily contaminated with brake dust from their heavy brake systems and have long cleaning intervals. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e offers a colour-indicating formula as a complementary option, changing colour when iron particles react — for outfits that value a visual readout of the cleaning action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRed Max in the product comparison — acidic cleaning vs. universal wheel cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX wheel cleaner range has different products for different requirement profiles. The regular \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is designed as a milder, broadly usable maintenance solution for regular use on normal wheel grime — lower pH, gentler on sensitive wheel surfaces, suitable as a weekly cleaner. The Red Max, on the other hand, is positioned for intensive use on heavy grime or after long cleaning intervals: more cleaning power, shorter working time on heavy brake dust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to non-acidic, purely alkaline wheel cleaners, the Red Max shows superior performance on mineral deposits (limescale, oxides) — alkaline cleaners are good for organic grime (oils, greases, silicones) but regularly fail on limescale and baked-on iron-oxide brake dust. Conversely, acidic cleaners are less effective against oil and grease grime, which a surfactant-based alkaline formula handles more efficiently. The Red Max combines acid and surfactant technology to tackle both types of grime at once — that makes it an all-rounder for heavily soiled wheels carrying both mineral and organic residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst DIY solutions (diluted citric acid, household sanitary cleaners), the Red Max as a professional product has a clear edge: the formulation is optimised for vehicle wheels, contains the right surfactants for brake-dust removal, and the concentration is set so it works effectively without damaging wheel material at a short dwell time. Household sanitary cleaners often contain acids that are too aggressive or the wrong surfactants for wheel use and can do permanent damage to wheel coatings or aluminium material when used wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max — containers and usage recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e comes only in professional bulk containers: 5 litre for smaller outfits and frequent single users, 25 litre for mid-size detailing shops and wash bays, plus 200 litre for industrial customers and large fleet care operations. The price scaling by container size is significant — the 200-litre container offers a much lower price per litre than the 5-litre one and makes the Red Max especially economical for high-volume outfits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor small to mid-size detailing shops doing 5–20 vehicles a day, the 5-litre container is the ideal entry point: you can use it straight as a working volume and the demand is easy to gauge before deciding on the 25-litre container. Per set of wheels you typically need 20–50 ml depending on the level of grime and the wheel size — so the 5-litre container is good for 100–250 vehicle jobs, which keeps stock manageable even for smaller outfits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo sum up, the Red Max is the right product for any wheel cleaning job where mild wheel cleaners fall short: heavily baked-on brake dust after long cleaning intervals, hard-limescale mineral build-up, and commercial cleaning demands with high throughput. For outfits looking for a full wheel care concept, we recommend pairing the Red Max for the intensive deep clean with the regular PROFILINE FelgenReiniger or the SONAX FelgenBeast for ongoing maintenance — a two-step split that optimises both cleaning quality and economics.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519620669775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2315050","price":60.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":53519620735311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2317050","price":314.16,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":53519620800847,"sku":"D1-SNX-2319050","price":1951.6,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1730643342"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter","title":"PROFILINE Prepare Cleaner \u0026 Inspection Spray (Degreaser)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDegrease and inspect your paint before sealing — SONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE Prepare do? This cleaner and inspection spray degreases paint surfaces with zero residue before you lay down sealants and ceramic coatings — and at the same time it makes leftover polishing oils and silicone residue show up thanks to the inspection effect.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvery proper sealant, every ceramic coating and every protective-film job starts with one step you can't skip: getting the surface fully degreased. Oils, silicones, polishing residue and release agents are invisible contaminants that wreck the chemical bond of a sealant — a surface that isn't degreased gives you patchy bonding, shorter durability and visible flaws. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/strong\u003e is the dedicated degreaser and inspection spray for this make-or-break step: fast-acting, residue-free, and at the same time usable as an inspection spray that makes any leftover contamination visible through how the light refracts off it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eResidue-free degreasing before sealant and coating.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polishing oils, silicones and other release agents are hydrophobic substances that cling to the paint if you don't pull them off on purpose. The Prepare loosens these contaminants and lifts them off the paint as you wipe — without leaving residue of its own that could mess with the sealant going on next. A cleanly degreased surface is the one condition that lets polymer or ceramic sealants reach their full bond and durability.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe inspection effect makes contamination visible.\u003c\/strong\u003e On top of cleaning, the Prepare spray has an important inspection job: spray it onto the surface and any spots with oil residue or polishing oil show a telltale running of the spray film. Spots with no contamination, on the other hand, wet out evenly. That visual cue lets you go back and clean those exact spots before the sealant goes on — a quality-control move no serious detailer leaves out.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAs a prep spray and panel wipe in your detailing workflow.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Prepare works both as a surface degreaser before coating and as a panel wipe after paint correction (polishing) — to fully strip polishing-oil residue before sealing. So it's not just a sealing-stage product; it slots into the full reconditioning workflow (polish → panel wipe → coating) as an integral step.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always use the Prepare right before you lay down the sealant or coating — not hours earlier, since dust and ambient contamination can settle straight back onto the cleaned surface. Spray it onto a clean, lint-free microfibre cloth (don't spray it straight onto the paint, to stop it running uncontrolled), wipe the panel you're about to seal, then flip to the dry side of the cloth right away to take it off. Work in a garage or an enclosed room with no draught to avoid fresh contamination. Straight after the Prepare, lay down the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDegreaser and inspection spray — how the Prepare gets surfaces ready for coatings\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe degreaser-inspection spray works off fast-evaporating solvents that loosen grease, oils and silicone residue on the paint and lift them off with the wipe cloth. Unlike water-based cleaners, these solvents leave no moisture film behind once they flash off — the evaporation is complete and residue-free, which is the ideal base for the coating going on right after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe real value sits in the dual job: while the spray cleans, the visual inspection effect shows you where contamination is still hiding. That effect comes down to the different surface tension of contaminated versus clean paint: on degreased paint the spray spreads out evenly as a fine film, on contaminated paint it pulls together and shows telltale craters or beads. This matters most when the panel you're coating wasn't fully oil-free after polishing — even small amounts of polishing oil can permanently hurt a ceramic coating's bond in that spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional reconditioning, the panel-wipe step with a degreaser like the Prepare is a quality standard no serious detailer skips: ceramic coatings like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridcoating-cc-one-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridCoating \"CC One\"\u003c\/a\u003e bond chemically to the clearcoat — a grease layer that blocks that bonding zone cuts the bond quality and can lead to peeling or patchy protection months down the line. The few minutes a careful degreasing step takes pay off in clearly better durability and a more even coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Prepare right — the panel-wipe workflow step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the panel-wipe spray is simple, but how cleanly you do it decides the final coating result. Prep: the car has to be fully washed and dried before the degreasing step — the Prepare is no cleaner for dirt or dust, only for oily and silicone residue on an already washed, dry surface. Water and dirt left on the surface block the degreasing effect and leave streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplication: the microfibre cloth for the Prepare should be new or freshly washed — a cloth that has already soaked up polishing oil hands it straight back to the paint as you wipe and undoes the whole degreasing effect. Spray the Prepare onto the cloth (not onto the paint), so the amount of solvent stays controlled and nothing dwells uncontrolled on sensitive paint areas. Wipe across the panel with light to medium pressure — the inspection effect shows up right away: even wetting signals a clean surface, patchy spread flags up oil residue. Go back over it until the wetting is even.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRemoval: right after wiping with the wet side of the cloth, take it off with the dry side or a second clean cloth before the solvent flashes off fully. That way the loosened grease and oils come off the paint instead of getting rubbed back onto the surface. Lay down your chosen sealant straight after — no pause, since the degreased paint is now at its most ready to take the coating chemistry. On big cars work in sections: Prepare, then sealant right after, section by section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere you use it — when degreasing before sealing is a must\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe degreaser spray is a must in several spots in the detailing workflow. The most common case is the panel wipe after paint correction: every polish frees up polishing oil that works as a lubricant and abrasive carrier between pad and paint. After polishing, that oil film sits on the paint — an even, fine, but bond-killing layer for sealants. The Prepare strips this film fully and gets the freshly polished clearcoat ready for sealing right away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second common use is prep for protective films (PPF — Paint Protection Film): films bond with adhesive layers on the paint and need an absolutely oil- and silicone-free surface for the best bond and edge sealing. Even small silicone spots under the film can lead to air bubbles, incomplete bonding and later peeling — a flawless degreasing step with the Prepare is therefore a particular pro standard on PPF jobs. Degreasing also matters when re-sealing cars that were treated with wax or polymer products before: old wax and polymer residue on the paint can noticeably hurt a ceramic coating's bond in those spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Prepare also earns its keep for quality control after polishing, whatever sealant comes next: the inspection effect shows whether the polish was carried out evenly across the whole panel, or whether areas with polishing residue point to spots that haven't been worked yet. So the Prepare doubles as a quality-control tool that flags gaps in the polishing work and heads off flaws in the final sealant before they get locked in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Prepare compared — degreasers and IPA mixes for paint prep\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing there are several products used as degreaser and panel wipe. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in diluted form (typically 10–20% in water) is a classic panel wipe that's cheap and widely available — the degreasing works well, but the inspection job is missing. If you degrease with IPA, you have to trust other cues to judge whether the degreasing step is complete. The Prepare gives you a clear edge here: the visual inspection effect gives you instant feedback on the quality of the degreasing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNext to all-purpose degreasers or solvent-heavy cleaners, the Prepare positions itself as a gentler, more paint-friendly product — not every solvent goes onto sensitive clearcoat, fresh multi-layer paintwork or coated surfaces without trouble. The Prepare is formulated specifically for car paint and safe on all common clearcoat grades. On fresh factory resprays or repair paint do a quick test patch to make sure it's compatible — especially on very freshly applied clearcoat that hasn't fully cured yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with cross-brand degreasers, the PROFILINE Prepare has the edge of system compatibility: it's matched to the PROFILINE sealant line and leaves no residue that would clash with the PROFILINE coating products. For detailers running a fully matched product system, that's an important quality factor — systematic compatibility cuts risk and makes results more repeatable. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e as the finish polish before, and the Prepare as the panel wipe after, together give you a perfect pre-coating workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE Prepare — pack size and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 400 ml (single bottle) as well as a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 400 ml bottle covers plenty of full-car degreases at sensible dosing — since you spray onto the cloth and not the paint, the amount you use is easy to control. For detailers who coat cars regularly and run the panel wipe as a fixed workflow step, the 3-pack is the most economical option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Prepare is especially worth it for any detailer and reconditioning business laying down professional ceramic coatings who won't compromise on surface prep. For enthusiasts coating their own car with a polymer or ceramic sealant, the Prepare is your guarantee that the sealant bonds as well and as durably as it can. A common mistake when coating your own car is skipping the degreasing step — seal straight after washing and you risk a poor bond from polishing-oil or wax residue you can't see on the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the Prepare is the link between paint correction and coating — a step that's easy to overlook, but one that decides the quality and longevity of the whole coating result. Build this step firmly into your detailing workflow and you'll be rewarded with clearly better and longer-lasting sealing results that mark the difference between a professional finish and one that only looks good on the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":53519725297999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2373000","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 400ml Set","offer_id":53519725330767,"sku":"D1-SNX-2373000_2","price":27.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 400ml Set","offer_id":53519725363535,"sku":"D1-SNX-2373000_3","price":41.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter_400ml.png?v=1730644408"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner","title":"PROFILINE Waterspot Remover Water Spots \u0026 Limescale Remover","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove limescale and water spots safely — with the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover do? This dedicated limescale and water spot remover dissolves mineral deposits chemically off paint, glass and chrome — no sanding, no scratches, no paint damage.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLimescale spots on the paint are a classic headache in hard-water areas, or on cars that run through automatic car washes a lot — the lime in the wash water dries on the surface and clings hard. Rainwater leaves its own mark too: once it dries, you get those tell-tale spots of lime and trapped minerals that no regular cleaner or shampoo will shift. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e is the targeted chemical answer to that: a purpose-built acidic solution that dissolves mineral lime and water spots on paint, glass and chrome, with no rubbing and no risk of scratching delicate surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eChemically dissolves lime and water spots without sanding.\u003c\/strong\u003e Limescale is alkaline — an acidic cleaner reacts with the deposits and breaks them down chemically, so you don't have to grind or polish them off by hand. That matters most on soft paint and coated surfaces, where rubbing can leave scratches or change the gloss. The Waterspot Remover does the work purely chemically, which keeps the paint surface safe.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUse it on paint, glass, chrome and stainless steel.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is tuned to work safely on these common vehicle surfaces. It really shows its strength on windscreens and rear windows — stubborn mineral spots on glass that mess with your view come off safely and fast. Not for matte paint, very delicate special finishes or aluminium without testing first.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighly concentrated formula with a tight working window.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Waterspot Remover is concentrated, so it needs precise dwell time — too short and you leave spots behind, too long on soft paint is a no-go. With the right timing and dilution you get the best results without putting the surface at risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always test the Waterspot Remover on a small spot before you go over the whole panel — especially on freshly painted or ceramic-coated cars. Lay the product on with a soft microfibre cloth or sponge, let it work for 1–2 minutes max, then rinse thoroughly with water. Don't use it in direct sun or on hot panels — heat speeds the reaction up and ups the risk to the paint. After you're done, rinse the treated area well and wash it with a pH-neutral shampoo to pull off every last residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving water spots and lime chemically — how the Waterspot Remover works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWater spots form when water evaporates off the surface and the minerals dissolved in it — mainly calcium carbonate (lime) and magnesium salts — are left behind as residue. These deposits are physically bonded to the surface: lime has a crystalline structure that anchors into the micro-pores and tiny irregularities, and mechanically you can only get it off by sanding or hard rubbing — both a risk to the surface. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e dodges that dilemma with an acidic formulation that turns calcium carbonate into water-soluble calcium ions (an acid-base reaction) and so dissolves the crystalline structure without any physical force.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe acid strength of the Waterspot Remover is dialled in to be strong enough to dissolve typical lime spots within a short dwell time, but mild enough to leave no lasting change on common vehicle paint, glass and chrome. Even so: acidic cleaners need more care than neutral products. Paint with a thin clearcoat layer, freshly applied sealants (ceramic coatings especially) or cars with special finishes should be tested on a hidden spot before you go over the whole thing. If in doubt, a quick message to us beats the risk of a ruined panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe water spot remover is at its best on highly mineralised water, which dominates in many German regions (Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, parts of North Rhine-Westphalia). Cars washed regularly in areas with total water hardness above 20 °dH pick up visible lime spots fast once they dry — and here a dedicated water spot remover is a must-have tool in the care line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the water spot remover properly — the correct workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e takes careful prep and exact timing. Wash and dry the car with a normal shampoo first — dirt and road film should be gone before the water spot remover goes on. Park the dry car in the shade — warmth speeds up the acidic reaction and shortens the safe dwell window. In summer or under midday sun it's riskier than early morning or in the garage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLay the product onto the affected area with a soft microfibre cloth or sponge — don't spray it over a wide area, just target it where the water spots are. Stick to a dwell time of 1–2 minutes: in many cases a visible sign that the water spot remover is working is light foaming or a lightening of the spots. After the dwell time, rinse thoroughly with plenty of water — no wiping with a dry cloth over the still-wet, acidic surface. Then follow up with a pH-neutral shampoo or rinse to neutralise any leftover acidic residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass (windscreen, rear window, side windows) you can run the dwell time a touch longer than on paint — glass is more tolerant of acidic cleaners. On heavily limed glass a second pass or a slightly longer dwell may be needed. Once the water spots are off the glass, a follow-up glass-cleaning step with a dedicated glass cleaner gives you a streak-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWater spots on paint and glass — typical situations and damage patterns\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day we see water spots in different grades that need handling with different intensity. Light water spots form after rainwater or wash water dries on freshly waxed paint — visible as white or matte streaks that catch the eye at a low light angle. These often come off with a normal glass cleaner or an acidic wheel cleaner, no dedicated water spot remover needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMedium water spots form when limey water dries several times over and mineral layers build up — you spot them as clearly round, whitish rings on the paint that won't budge with normal shampoos. This is where the dedicated Waterspot Remover is the right call. Heavy, deeply baked-in water spots form when lime sits untreated on the surface for a long time and the minerals etch into the clearcoat — you can tell because after you chemically remove the lime, the spot is still visible as a matte patch. In that case a light polish after the chemical step is needed to even out the surface changes the lime caused.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCars with dark or black paint are especially prone to heavy water spots — on those colours water spots and drying rings show up most, and look spectacular at a low light angle. Cars left to dry in the sun pick up stubborn spots faster than ones that dry in the shade — the heat speeds up evaporation and lets the lime crystallise quicker. If you always dry your car in the shade after washing, or pat it down with a drying towel, you cut water spot formation right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWaterspot Remover comparison — when you actually need the dedicated water spot remover\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot every lime spot needs a dedicated water spot remover. Fresh, light lime spots often still come off with a mild glass cleaner or an acidic wheel cleaner, no special product needed. When lime spots stay stubborn — they don't react to normal cleaner, they're clearly visible when you look across the paint at an angle, or mineral deposits get in the way of your view — a dedicated water spot remover like the PROFILINE Waterspot Remover is the most efficient fix. A simple test: run a fingernail gently over the spot — if you can feel it raised or it leaves a rough texture, you're dealing with mineral deposits that only come off chemically or mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with mechanical methods (polishing with a fine abrasive), the chemical route has clear upsides: no risk of holograms or swirl marks, no removal of clearcoat or ceramic coating, no faff with a polisher. The chemical route is also faster on time — a few minutes of dwell instead of long polishing with machine, pads and compound. The downside: very deep, baked-in lime spots (where the lime has already chemically attacked the clearcoat and left micro-scratches) often can't be fully resolved by chemistry alone — here a light polish after the water spot removal may still be needed to even out the remaining structural changes in the clearcoat. In that case a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e works as a mild finishing step after the chemical removal step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor regular prevention against water spots after a detail, putting a wet-look sealant or a quick detailer on after the wash makes sense — a good sealant lets water bead off and cuts the drying residue right down. That makes the Waterspot Remover needed less often and keeps the car's condition longer. If you often wash in the midday sun in summer, or don't dry the car after washing, you'll be reaching for the water spot remover again sooner or later despite the sealant — which is why the way water sits on the car is the deciding factor, not just the sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover — who it's for and what we recommend\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e is a must-have for any detailer and car owner living in hard-water areas, or running cars that often meet mineral water through automatic washes or rain. The 1-litre bottle is concentrated and goes a long way — enough for plenty of treatments on one car or several. As an instant fix for stubborn lime spots, the Waterspot Remover is the most efficient option, and it needs no special kit (polisher, pads). For anyone new to pro car care, the product is easy to handle thanks to its clear instructions — as long as you keep to the dwell time and stay off hot surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses that regularly work cars with water spot problems, the 1-litre size is ideal. The concentrated formula gives a far better cost-per-use than smaller consumer sizes. As a companion product for a complete detailing kit, after the water spot removal we recommend a glass cleaner for the windows (\u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e) and a final sealant that slows future spotting. If you've got water spots on the glass and you can also see scratches that go beyond a plain water spot removal, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e is the right companion for glass polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the PROFILINE Waterspot Remover is the right tool whenever you want water and lime spots gone chemically, with no mechanical stress — on paint, glass or chrome. Respect the dwell time, stay off hot surfaces and rinse thoroughly afterwards, and you'll get consistently good results while keeping the surface as safe as possible. For cars in hard-water regions, the Waterspot Remover isn't a special-case product — it's a fixed, must-have part of the care line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53521158570319,"sku":"D1-SNX-2753000","price":19.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521158603087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2753000_2","price":35.5,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521158635855,"sku":"D1-SNX-2753000_3","price":53.25,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner_1-liter.png?v=1730654311"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger","title":"PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer interior cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean sensitive interior surfaces the gentle way — SONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer do? This mild interior cleaner cleans sensitive car surfaces like displays, soft-touch plastics, Alcantara and leather with no residue and no streaks — no harsh solvents, nothing left behind.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eModern car interiors ask a lot of a cleaner: big touchscreens and display surfaces, coated soft-touch plastics, Alcantara trim and satin-matte finishes all react badly to standard interior cleaners built on alkaline or solvent-heavy formulas. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly these delicate materials — a mild, alcohol-free formula that lifts fingerprints, skin oils, dust and light grime without attacking display coatings, damaging Alcantara fibres or leaving smears on soft-touch surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGentle cleaning for displays and touchscreens.\u003c\/strong\u003e Infotainment screens and instrument clusters in modern cars carry anti-glare coatings, an oleophobic touchscreen layer and UV-absorbing top coats. Standard cleaners with alcohol or aggressive surfactants can damage these delicate coatings, throw up smears or permanently kill the anti-reflective finish. The SensitiveSurface Detailer is formulated to pull fingerprints and greasy marks off display surfaces without touching the protective layers — you get a clear, streak-free screen with nothing left behind.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe on Alcantara, velour and sensitive fabrics.\u003c\/strong\u003e Alcantara is a high-performance material built on polyester microfibres, used across many premium cars for steering wheels, seats and headliners. It's moisture-sensitive and reacts to too much solvent with discolouration, shiny spots or matted fibres. The SensitiveSurface Detailer holds no free alcohol and is mild enough in its dosing to clean Alcantara without damaging the fibres or leaving drying marks — as long as you keep it sparing, the way the instructions say.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAntistatic action cuts down on fresh dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e One thing people often miss about interior cleaners is how they behave with static charge: interior plastics build up a static charge through friction and pull in dust. The SensitiveSurface Detailer carries antistatic agents that knock that charge back after cleaning — so the surface stays dust-free noticeably longer than after a standard cleaner without that extra function.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never spray the SensitiveSurface Detailer straight onto display surfaces — the mist can creep into vents or under the display bezel and damage the electronics. Instead, spray it onto a clean, soft microfibre cloth and wipe the screen in light circular passes. For Alcantara, only dampen the cloth — don't soak it — and always work in the direction of the fibres so you don't create shiny patches. For stubborn dirt on fabric and Alcantara we'd point you to the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e for leather surfaces as a specialised follow-up. After cleaning, let it buff out briefly until the surface dries matte — that's when the antistatic film has done its job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMild cleaning chemistry — how the SensitiveSurface Detailer protects delicate surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe hard part in building an interior cleaner for sensitive surfaces is the balance between enough cleaning power and minimal load on the surface. Standard alkaline cleaners run a pH of 9–12 with strong surfactants that dissolve organic soils (fats, oils, proteins) effectively — but attack coatings, dyes and plasticisers at the same time. Solvent-based cleaners shift stubborn stains, but leave dissolution artefacts on delicate surfaces and can go after the polyester microfibres in Alcantara.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e works with a mild surfactant technology in the neutral pH range: the cleaning molecules wrap around dirt particles (finger grease, dust, light colour marks) and lift them off the substrate without chemically stressing the surface. The formula holds neither alcohol nor strongly alkaline buffers — both classes are known for attacking display coatings and greasing up matte paint finishes. Instead the detailer runs on gentle-acting surfactants picked specifically for cleaning delicate plastics and fabrics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe detailer's antistatic component is another technical detail: quaternary ammonium compounds or polymer-based antistatic additives settle after cleaning as an ultra-thin film on the cleaned surface and stop the static charge from building back up. This effect works best in dry environments (heated cabins, low humidity) and measurably extends the dust-free window after cleaning. For detailing businesses that's a commercial edge: cars stay longer in the state they were handed over in, which lifts satisfaction and cuts complaints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SensitiveSurface Detailer's recipe is also tuned to leave no streaks or whitish residue after cleaning — the kind alkaline cleaners can leave through carbonate deposits. On glass, in dark plastic areas and on high-gloss displays a streak-free drying formula is essential — any drying with visible residue has to be reworked with an extra wipe, which costs time and loads the surface more than it needs to be.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SensitiveSurface Detailer properly — step by step in the interior\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the interior cleaner correctly starts with prepping the surface you're about to clean. Loose dust and dry dirt should come off first with a soft brush or a microfibre duster — if those particles get dragged around by a damp cloth, they can leave fine scratches on delicate surfaces. That goes double for display surfaces, where even the finest sand can create microscopic scratches that permanently spoil the reflection on the screen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplication: spray the detailer onto a clean, soft microfibre cloth — not straight onto the surface. Use just enough that the cloth is lightly damp but there's no free film of liquid on it that could drip onto delicate surfaces. Wipe the surface with the damp cloth using light, even pressure — circular passes suit displays, on Alcantara and velour always work in the direction of the fibres. Shift stubborn stains with a short dwell time: lay the cloth on the spot, let it sit 15–30 seconds, then wipe. Don't scrub — the detailer loosens the dirt so you can lift it off, you don't need to force it off mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFinishing step: go over it with the dry side of the same cloth or a second dry microfibre to pull off the last traces of moisture and get an even, matte finish. On high-gloss displays this step really matters, since even slight moisture traces show up as streaks in raking light. The detailer's antistatic finish is active once it's dry — no extra treatment needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional use we'd work the interior in sections: displays and instruments first, then centre console and door cards, then seats and fabrics — clean to dirty, top to bottom, so no dirt particles get carried from areas you've already done onto cleaned surfaces. That order is a pro standard that lifts cleaning quality and cuts the total working time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the SensitiveSurface Detailer earns its keep — which surfaces gain the most\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe interior cleaner really pays off on cars with a mix of sensitive materials, the way it's now standard in modern premium cars. Modern high-performance cars with big touchscreen integrations (current Mercedes, BMW and Audi models with integrated display bands) carry a whole range of display surfaces, all of which react badly to alcohol and alkaline cleaners. The SensitiveSurface Detailer can go on all of them — from OLED screens to capacitive touch controls — with no risk to the protective layers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlcantara surfaces are a classic use case: steering wheels with Alcantara trim, seat surfaces in Alcantara\/leather combination and Alcantara headliners are widespread in sports cars and premium cars, and a regular headache for detailers. Most all-purpose cleaners are too aggressive for Alcantara or leave drying marks — the SensitiveSurface Detailer, in its mildness, suits this material, though on heavily soiled Alcantara a specialised fabric cleaner can be more effective. For leather surfaces in the same car the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e makes a good specialised companion, built for the particular demands of aniline and natural leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSoft-touch plastics (STC) are another important field: many dashboards, door handles and centre consoles in modern cars carry a rubbery soft-touch coating that gives the interior a quality feel. These coatings react extremely badly to solvents (coating breaks down, goes tacky) and to silicones (softening, shine on matte areas). The SensitiveSurface Detailer holds neither silicones nor solvents in any relevant amount, which makes it a safe choice for STC surfaces. Matte films on trim strips and matte paint on interior elements also gain from the mild formula, which throws up no grease marks or shiny patches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SensitiveSurface Detailer in the line-up — when each interior cleaner makes sense\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE interior range has several products for different jobs. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e is a concentrate for general interior cleaning — more powerful and economical on heavily soiled or robust surfaces like hard-plastic dashboards, carpets and rubber seals. For heavy grime on standard plastics the concentrate is more efficient than the SensitiveSurface Detailer, which is milder than you need for that kind of job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SensitiveSurface Detailer sits as a specialised premium product for tightly defined jobs: sensitive, high-quality interior materials that shouldn't be cleaned with standard interior cleaners. In a professional detailing business we'd therefore say keep both in use — the Interior Detailer Concentrate for base cleaning and heavy grime, the SensitiveSurface Detailer for fine work on delicate surfaces and the final detail clean before handover. Splitting the interior cleaning workflow in two like this is a pro standard that lifts both efficiency and quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst all-purpose cleaners from the household aisle or non-specialised car care products, the decisive edge of the SensitiveSurface Detailer lies in its targeted formulation for car interiors: display coatings in a car differ from household screens, Alcantara fibres react differently to home fabrics, and soft-touch plastics in cars have different chemical make-ups than household items. A cleaner built for car interiors accounts for these specific material compositions — generic household alternatives mostly don't and raise the risk of surface damage. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/a\u003e is another interesting alternative for businesses that value certified eco-friendly ingredients.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer — pack sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 1 litre plus a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 1-litre bottle is a ready-to-use spray built for direct use — no dilution, no pre-mixing, which makes it very efficient to handle in day-to-day work. Per car interior at normal soiling you'll typically need 20–40 ml, so the 1-litre pack is good for 25–50 full interior cleans. The 3-pack is the most economical option for businesses that regularly detail premium cars and run the detailer as a fixed part of their interior workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe product especially earns its place for detailers and reconditioning businesses that regularly work on premium cars with Alcantara trim, big infotainment displays or soft-touch panels. These are often high-end cars where cleaning damage from the wrong product gets expensive fast — a specialised cleaner like the SensitiveSurface Detailer is an investment in backing up the quality guarantee you give the customer. And for the keen private owner who looks after a premium car themselves and wants to treat sensitive materials gently, the product is the safest bet next to cheap all-purpose cleaners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a complete interior care workflow we'd suggest: SensitiveSurface Detailer for displays, Alcantara and soft-touch → LeatherCleaner for leather surfaces → Interior Detailer Concentrate for carpets and coarse plastics. This three-stage approach makes sure every surface category gets treated with the product best suited to it, which maximises the cleaning results and minimises the risk of material damage — the mark of a truly professional interior detail.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53521766547791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2863000","price":22.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521766580559,"sku":"D1-SNX-2863000_2","price":41.32,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521766613327,"sku":"D1-SNX-2863000_3","price":61.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger_1-liter.png?v=1730659049"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger","title":"PROFILINE MultiClean \"Alkaline\" Pre-Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBreak heavy traffic film chemically — with the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline do? The high-alkaline pre-cleaner pulls bug splatter, heavy brake-dust deposits and organic road grime off the surface during the touchless pre-wash step — before the main wash even starts.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eProper car care doesn't start with shampoo. If you want a genuinely clean wash, you set up first — with a pre-cleaner that breaks the worst of the dirt chemically, before any sponge or wash mitt ever touches the paint. That's exactly the thinking behind the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e: a high-alkaline pre-cleaner that loosens bug splatter, organic road film, tar particles and heavy brake-dust deposits in the pre-wash, so the contact-wash risk to your paint drops noticeably during the shampoo pass that follows. It's built for pros and for keen hobby detailers who take their wash routine seriously.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-alkaline formula for maximum dirt break-down in the pre-wash step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiClean Alkaline runs at a strongly alkaline pH that attacks organic grime — bugs, pollen, bird droppings, road film and greasy deposits — on a chemical level and weakens its grip on the surface. The dirt then rinses off touchless with the pressure washer or in the shampoo pass, instead of getting dragged across the paint while you wash and risking fine scratches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePre-wash as paint protection — not just a convenience step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Every dirt particle still sitting on the surface when you start the contact wash acts like an abrasive. The pre-cleaner in the first step cuts the amount of grime on the surface before mitt or sponge come into play — that's not optional luxury, it's real long-term paint protection, especially on dark cars where micro-scratches show up the most.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFlexible dosing — for different soiling levels and application methods.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiClean Alkaline comes in 1-litre and 5-litre containers and can be run at different strengths depending on how dirty the car is and how you apply it (foam cannon, spray bottle, pump sprayer). Light soiling needs a stronger dilution; on cars back from long motorway runs or in the summer bug season, you crank the concentration up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the MultiClean Alkaline down on a dry, cool car — not in full sun and not on pre-wetted paint, since water thins out the working concentration. Let the cleaner dwell for 2–5 minutes without letting it dry on — in hot weather or direct sun, shorten the dwell time and keep the car damp. Then rinse thoroughly with the pressure washer before you go into the shampoo pass. For maximum bug removal, run the cleaner stronger across the front end (grille, bumper) and, if needed, work it briefly with a soft brush before you rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAlkaline car pre-cleaner — how the MultiClean Alkaline works chemically\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost of the organic dirt on a car — bug splatter, pollen, bird droppings, the fatty salts off road wear, oil film — is stable in the acidic-to-neutral pH range. A high-alkaline cleaner like the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e shifts the chemical balance: esters and fatty compounds in organic grime are split apart by saponification under alkaline conditions, protein structures in bug residue are denatured and dissolved. The result isn't a mechanical lift-off but a chemical destabilisation of the dirt — the bond to the paint is weakened without you having to work the surface mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to get right: high-alkaline pre-cleaners aren't \"do-it-all\" cleaners for every situation. They're tuned for organic, alkali-soluble grime. Mineral deposits like lime spots, water spots or embedded metal rust (brake dust as iron particles) barely react to an alkaline attack — that calls for acidic specialist cleaners. The MultiClean Alkaline makes sense in a two-wash concept: alkaline pre-wash first (organic grime), then a follow-up with an iron remover or acidic cleaner (mineral deposits). Combine both steps and you clean chemically all the way, instead of just looking clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlso important: alkaline pre-cleaners have to be rinsed off completely before you go into the shampoo wash — residue can react with some sealants or wax layers and knock back their bond for a while. A thorough pressure rinse after the dwell time is enough to clear the cleaner off fully. On freshly sealed cars (ceramic coating, paint sealant), only use it on genuinely heavily soiled spots and keep it out of the regular weekly wash, so you don't put unnecessary strain on the protection. For the routine wash of a sealed car, reach for a mild, pH-neutral shampoo as your standard wash product instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a pre-wash like a pro — the application step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe best way to use the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e starts on a dry car. Moisture on the paint thins the cleaner straight away and cuts the working concentration before it ever had a chance to act. Recommended method: fill the cleaner neat or at a low dilution ratio (1:3 to 1:10 depending on how dirty it is) into a pump sprayer, a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-foamsprayer-schaumspruher\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamSprayer\u003c\/a\u003e or a foam cannon on the pressure washer, and spray it evenly across the whole car — bottom to top, so the cleaner runs down the bodywork and the lower, dirtier areas get properly wetted too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStick to the dwell time: 2–5 minutes is enough for typical road grime. Don't let it dry on — in direct sun or high temperatures, mist the car lightly in between or shorten the dwell time accordingly. After the dwell, rinse thoroughly with the pressure washer, then move into the normal shampoo wash. Alternatively, the MultiClean Alkaline can be run as a foam cleaner in the foam cannon — foam clings to the surface longer and stretches the effective dwell time with no extra effort. For really stubborn bug splatter on the front end, it pays to work a soft bug sponge or microfibre mitt over it after the pre-wash before you rinse — even that is already a lot gentler than going straight into a contact wash with no chemical pre-wash first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBug remover for pros — when the alkaline pre-cleaner really shines\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MultiClean Alkaline shows its strengths above all in the summer season, when bugs turn into a real cleaning problem. Bug residue is made of proteins, acids (formic acid, acetic acid) and fatty substances — a chemically complex mix that \"bakes\" into the paint the moment it sits for more than a few hours. Those acids in particular can damage paint if bugs aren't removed promptly in hot weather. The high-alkaline formula neutralises those acids and breaks down the protein structures at the same time — which makes the pre-cleaner an effective tool against bugs that cuts the mechanical load during the wash down to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA simple rule of thumb applies: the fresher the bug residue, the less dwell time the cleaner needs. Fresh splatter dissolves almost completely within 2–3 minutes of dwell time and then rinses off touchless. With older, dried-on residue — what you see day-to-day on cars left unwashed for several days after a motorway run — a second pass or a quick mechanical follow-up with a soft bug sponge may be needed. That's not a weakness of the cleaner, it's chemical reality: proteins that have been \"baked\" by heat and UV over days need more time or mechanical help to dissolve fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond the car body, it's especially worthwhile on motorhomes, vans and commercial vehicles: thanks to their size and mileage, these often carry many times the dirt load of a normal car, and the option of a touchless pre-wash saves a lot of time and effort here. Professional detailing operations run the pre-cleaner as a fixed part of their wash routine — as the first step, before pressure or foam come in. That doesn't just lift cleaning quality, it also stretches the lifespan of the wash pads and mitts, because they meet far less coarse grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePre-cleaners compared — MultiClean Alkaline vs. MultiStar and MultiClean Acid\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has three cleaners that look similar at first glance but are built for different jobs. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar All-Purpose-Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the most versatile of the three: a concentrated all-rounder that, depending on dilution, works for interior, wheels, exterior surfaces and more. It's alkaline, but less strong than the MultiClean Alkaline, so it's broader in use and kinder to sensitive surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e, by contrast, is tuned for maximum alkaline cleaning power in the pre-wash — it's not meant for sensitive interior materials, but for tough paint surfaces, sills, wheel arches and front ends. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/a\u003e is its acidic counterpart: it handles mineral deposits like lime spots, water spots and embedded grime that alkaline cleaners can't shift. In pro work the two are often run as a system: alkaline first (MultiClean Alkaline), then acidic (MultiClean Acid or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-flugrostentferner-kraftreiniger-sauer-eisenentferner\"\u003ePROFILINE FlugrostEntferner\u003c\/a\u003e) — that gives you a complete chemical clean across every type of dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline — sizes, concentration, uses\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pre-cleaner is available at Detailing1 in two container sizes: 1 litre for hobby detailers and occasional users who want to experience the pro effect without laying in a big stock, plus 5 litres for regular users and detailing operations that keep the product in constant use. Both versions hold the same concentrate formula — the ideal dilution depends on the soiling level and the application method. In pro work with daily use, the 5-litre container clearly pays off, since the price per litre comes out lower and the bigger canister gives you enough volume for larger vehicles and fleets too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho gets the most out of this pre-cleaner? Professional detailers running a structured multi-step method (touchless pre-clean + foam wash + hand wash) who put paint safety first. Hobby detailers looking for an effective answer to stubborn traffic film after long runs or in bug season, without having to reach for aggressive chemistry. Owners of dark or sensitive paint, where wash marring shows up the most and the mechanical cleaning load should be kept to a minimum. And anyone who wants to dial in their wash process: pre-wash consistently and you spare the car, the wash gear, and your time in the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a practical workflow for your next wash: park the car in the shade, lay the MultiClean Alkaline down with a foam sprayer or foam cannon, let it dwell for 3–4 minutes, rinse thoroughly with pressure. Then apply a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/a\u003e as a foam wash in the second step and let it dwell, before the hand wash with mitt and pH-neutral shampoo begins. This three-stage approach (alkaline pre-wash → foam → hand wash) is the standard at professional detailing operations and makes a visible difference to surface quality over time on cars in frequent use.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53622519365967,"sku":"D1-SNX-6295000","price":32.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57340506472783,"sku":"D1-SNX-6293000","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1731053233"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer","title":"PROFILINE MultiClean \"Acid\" Heavy-Duty Cleaner (Acidic)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eAcidic heavy-duty cleaner for stubborn mineral deposits — SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid do? The acidic heavy-duty cleaner chemically dissolves limescale, rust, cement haze and mineral soiling — a highly concentrated base cleaner for professional detailing and vehicle washing. 5-litre container for pro use.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn detailing and professional vehicle prep, some soiling just won't budge — not with alkaline cleaners, not with elbow grease. Mineral deposits like limescale, cement, rust and water spots are chemically bonded and need an acid to break them apart. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/strong\u003e is the highly concentrated acidic heavy-duty cleaner in the PROFILINE system: built to cut through lime- and mineral-based soiling on wheels, vehicle surfaces, underbodies and hard industrial surfaces. As a 5-litre concentrate with flexible dilution, it's the cost-effective tool for regular pro use in detailing businesses and vehicle wash bays.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighly concentrated acidic heavy-duty cleaner for mineral soiling.\u003c\/strong\u003e Limescale, rust, cement haze and water spots are alkaline or metallic compounds — an acidic formula reacts with these deposits and turns them into water-soluble ions that rinse straight off. The MultiClean Acid is strong enough to dissolve even baked-on limescale and rust marks without heavy scrubbing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFlexible dilution for different cleaning jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e The concentrate lets you dial in the mix to match the soiling — from light lime marks (high dilution) all the way to heavy cement and rust deposits (low or no dilution). That flexibility turns the cleaner into an all-rounder that handles a wide range of pro cleaning tasks with a single product.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCost-effective 5-litre container for regular pro use.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5-litre concentrate is made for daily professional use: in detailing businesses, wash bays and detailing studios where you're cleaning several vehicles a day with all sorts of soiling profiles, the bulk container pays off big against smaller single bottles. Depending on the dilution, one litre of concentrate makes several litres of ready-to-use cleaning solution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always run the acidic cleaner diluted when the surface allows it — save neat use for really stubborn soiling on acid-resistant surfaces only. On painted surfaces, keep the dwell time short and rinse off with plenty of water — acidic cleaners attack clear coat and delicate surfaces if you let them sit too long. Protective gear (gloves, safety glasses) is a must when handling acidic concentrates. As the systemic counterpart we'd point you to the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/a\u003e for grease- and dirt-based soiling — together the two heavy-duty cleaners cover the whole pH spectrum of professional vehicle cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcidic chemistry in a heavy-duty cleaner — how the MultiClean Acid dissolves mineral soiling\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe way the acidic heavy-duty cleaner works comes down to an acid-base reaction: mineral deposits like calcium carbonate (limescale) and iron oxides (rust) are chemically alkaline or metallic. An acidic cleaner donates protons and converts these compounds into their ion form — calcium carbonate becomes calcium ions (Ca²⁺) and carbon dioxide (CO₂), iron oxides become soluble iron ions. That's the exact opposite of the original chemical bond, and it makes the deposits water-soluble and rinsable without any mechanical force.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe acid strength in the concentrate is set so it's effective enough to fully dissolve typical lime and rust deposits within manageable dwell times — while controlled dilution keeps it safe to use on more delicate surfaces. That makes the MultiClean Acid more versatile than specialist single products formulated for one specific soiling type and one specific surface. Thanks to that versatility and dilutability, the concentrate offers very good value for money in pro use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn important chemical point with acidic cleaners is material compatibility. Acid-resistant materials like stainless steel, ceramic, glass and many plastics are fully compatible with acidic cleaners. Aluminium and certain light-alloy metals, on the other hand, are sensitive — acids can attack aluminium and leave it permanently dull or create an oxidative film. Painted surfaces tolerate short dwell times and a thorough rinse, but long dwell times or high concentration can cause clear-coat damage. Sticking to the recommended dwell times and dilutions isn't optional here — it's a core part of safe use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the MultiClean Acid right — dilution, dwell time and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the acidic heavy-duty cleaner takes a precise approach and a dilution rate matched to the soiling level and the surface. For light lime marks and regular wheel cleaning, go with 1:10 to 1:20 (1 part concentrate to 10–20 parts water). For medium soiling like cement haze or heavier limescale on tiles and hard surfaces, 1:5 to 1:10. For heavy deposits like long-dried rust or massive limescale, you may need 1:2 to 1:5 or neat use — take extra care here and keep it off delicate materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorkflow: wet the surface first with water to open up the substrate and slow the cleaner running off. Lay the diluted MultiClean Acid on generously — spray it straight onto horizontal surfaces, apply it to vertical ones with a sponge or brush. Dwell time 1–5 minutes depending on the soiling level and dilution rate — a visible foaming or fizzing reaction during dwell is a sign the acid is reacting with the mineral deposits and dissolving them. After the dwell, rinse thoroughly with plenty of water — get every bit of rinse water and acidic residue off, especially on metal surfaces that can corrode from acid residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter cleaning with the acidic heavy-duty cleaner, it's worth doing a follow-up rinse with a neutral or slightly alkaline solution to fully neutralise any acid residue — especially on wheels and metal surfaces you'll be sealing or protecting afterwards. On freshly cleaned wheels, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-rim-felgenversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Rim\u003c\/a\u003e makes a lasting layer of protection that seriously slows down future lime and brake-dust build-up and makes the next clean easier.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere to use it — typical soiling and surfaces for the acidic heavy-duty cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe acidic pro cleaner covers a broad range of jobs where mineral or acid-soluble soiling is the main issue. Wheel cleaning is one of the most common: brake dust has no direct affinity for acidic cleaners, but limescale from wash water and mineral films on wheel surfaces come off nicely with the acidic heavy-duty cleaner. On steel and stainless wheels it's no problem — on aluminium wheels, which are more acid-sensitive, bump up the dilution and shorten the dwell time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCement haze on vehicles and glass is a common headache on cars used near building sites or roadworks. The hard white film of cement dust that settles on paint and glass is alkaline and comes off nicely with the acidic heavy-duty cleaner — on glass (e.g. the windscreen) it's no problem with plenty of rinse water and leaves a clear, clean pane. Mineral water spots and lime rings from well water or hard wash water are another classic job — here the MultiClean Acid is the more heavily concentrated pro tool next to the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/a\u003e, which is built for single-detail care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor underbody cleaning, the acidic heavy-duty cleaner works well against lime and mineral deposits that settle in the underbody — though here it makes sense to pair it with an alkaline pre-cleaner for grease- and oil-based soiling before you bring in the acid for the mineral bits. Shop floors, lifts and sanitary fixtures in detailing businesses where lime and mineral films build up can also be cleaned effectively with the diluted cleaner — a cost-effective double use for the large 5-litre container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcidic vs. alkaline heavy-duty cleaner — the right pick for every soiling type\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean system is made up of two complementary heavy-duty cleaners that together cover the whole spectrum of professional vehicle and surface cleaning. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/a\u003e is the alkaline pre-cleaner for grease-, oil- and dirt-based soiling — road film, bugs, tar, tyre rubber and organic residue come off nicely with the alkaline formula. The MultiClean Acid, on the other hand, is built for the complementary job: mineral, limey and rust-based deposits that don't react to alkaline cleaners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRule of thumb: alkaline cleaner first (road film, grease, organic dirt), acidic cleaner in the second pass (lime, rust, mineral films). Day-to-day, a lot of vehicle soiling is a mix — a grimy wheel carries brake dust (metallic\/oxide) as well as road film (organic) and lime films (mineral). You get the best clean by running both cleaners in sequence: Alkaline for the first coarse dirt, Acid for the leftover mineral residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst specialist single products like wheel cleaners or descalers, the MultiClean concentrates give you the economic edge of flexibility: one product, adjustable by dilution, for many cleaning intensities and surfaces. For detailing businesses with a mix of customer vehicles and shifting soiling profiles, the systematic MultiClean duo is more cost-effective than a pile of specific single products — and it seriously cuts down on storage hassle too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid — container size and use calculation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/strong\u003e comes only in the 5-litre container, which puts it firmly in pro territory: the container size and concentrate format are built for continuous professional use, not the occasional private job. At a 1:10 dilution, 5 litres of concentrate make 50 litres of ready-to-use cleaner — enough for many hundreds of wheel cleans or dozens of full vehicle preps with lime removal. Even at 1:5 dilutions for heavier soiling, the container lasts for a great many cleaning jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional detailing businesses cleaning several vehicles a day and running into mineral soiling regularly, the 5-litre concentrate is the most cost-effective buy. The price per litre of ready-to-use cleaner sits well below the market price for pre-diluted cleaners in consumer containers, depending on the dilution. The investment in the concentrate typically pays for itself within a few weeks of regular use against buying single ready-mixed cleaners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a systematic addition we'd point you to pairing it with the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline — together the two products form the complete cleaning system for every soiling type you run into in professional vehicle prep. Detailing businesses that use the MultiClean duo as a fixed cleaning system get a standardised approach that adapts to every vehicle type and soiling profile and delivers repeatable, solid results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for businesses using the concentrate regularly: store the product cool and dry, keep it out of direct sunlight and away from frost. Close the container well after use to stop concentration changes from evaporation. In pro use it's worth prepping daily amounts in separate containers — that way you always work with freshly diluted cleaner, which keeps cleaning performance consistent. With these simple handling rules, the 5-litre concentrate is a lastingly cost-effective and effective part of the professional cleaning line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53622546366799,"sku":"D1-SNX-6325000","price":49.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer_5-liter.png?v=1731053714"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-stain-ex-klebstoffentferner-kleberentferner","title":"PROFILINE Stain Ex Adhesive Remover","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove adhesive, labels and glue residue without a trace — SONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the professional adhesive remover from SONAX actually do? The solvent-based spray dissolves glue residue, labels, stickers, tar, wax and stubborn stains cleanly off paint, glass, metal and plastic surfaces — no mechanical scrubbing, no damage to the surface.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing and vehicle reconditioning you run into a broad mix of stubborn stains and residue that normal cleaners simply won't touch: glue left behind after vinyl lettering comes off, price and spec-plate labels, tar flung up from the underbody, wax build-up and stubborn tar spatter from road grime. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex\u003c\/strong\u003e is the go-to adhesive remover for all of these jobs: solvent-based, but tuned for paint-safe use, and available in a 1-litre bottle for regular pro use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRemoves adhesive, labels and stickers without a trace.\u003c\/strong\u003e Glue residue left by removed films, stickers and factory decals is built from plastic polymers that solvent-based chemistry can soften and lift off the surface. The Stain Ex breaks those polymer chains down and makes them wipeable — no mechanical abrasion, no residue on the paint. On cars that have just had vehicle graphics or lettering film taken off, this adhesive remover is a must if you want a clean, residue-free finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on tar, wax and stubborn stains.\u003c\/strong\u003e Tar residue from road asphalt and bitumen clings hard to paint and plastics thanks to its thermoplastic nature — a normal wash won't shift it. The Stain Ex dissolves the tar chemically and makes it wipe away, without scratching the surface through mechanical rubbing. Wax residue on paint, wax on rubber seals and stubborn leftovers from dressings react to the solvent-based formula just as well.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUse it on paint, glass, metal and plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is built around the surfaces you meet on cars: painted, glazed, chromed and thermoplastic. Safe on paintwork with a short dwell time and no long contact, more forgiving on glass and metal. That surface tolerance makes the Stain Ex a versatile tool for glue removal without a separate product for every surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e apply the Stain Ex sparingly and on target — spray it onto a clean microfibre cloth or straight onto the glue spot, let it dwell briefly (30–60 seconds) and then wipe. Don't spray it over large painted areas and don't use it on hot paint — at high temperatures and with a long dwell time, solvents can attack the clear coat. On sensitive surfaces, always test an out-of-sight spot first. After the glue is off, go over the treated area with a mild cleaner or shampoo to lift any solvent residue. For larger tar-covered areas we'd reach for the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-teerentferner-teerentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TeerEntferner\u003c\/a\u003e as the specialist for tar over a big surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSolvent technology: how the Stain Ex dissolves adhesive and stubborn stains\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe way this adhesive remover works comes down to selective solvent chemistry: certain organic solvents can dissolve plastic polymers (adhesives), hydrocarbon compounds (tar, bitumen, wax) and other organic substances — the chemical bonds between the polymer chains weaken, the substances swell, and you can then simply lift them off the surface. That's the basic principle behind every adhesive remover: the right solvent for the right type of glue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Stain Ex is formulated as a broadband adhesive remover that tackles a wide range of organic residue — from acrylic adhesives (common on factory decals) through solvent glues (in lettering films) to bitumen (tar) and candle wax. That versatility comes from a balanced solvent blend that answers different types of glue without being too aggressive for car paint. Paint tolerance is good with short dwell times — with long dwell times or on sensitive specialist clear coats (matte paint, for example, or very thin clear-coat layers), take care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne key point when working with solvent adhesive removers is leaving no residue: the Stain Ex is formulated so that, after wiping and a quick flash-off, it leaves nothing visible or felt on the treated surface. That matters especially before you lay down a new film or sealant — solvent residue on the surface would hurt how well the new layer bonds. A final clean-up pass with a mild cleaner after the glue is off makes sure the surface really is clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHow much the solvent chemistry depends on temperature is another thing experienced detailers keep in mind when using adhesive removers: at low temperatures (below 10 °C) the dissolving reaction slows down, which calls for longer dwell times; at high temperatures (hot paint in the sun, above 40 °C) the solvents flash off too fast and can leave aggressive re-concentrations on the paint. The sweet spot is paint temperatures between 15 °C and 30 °C — indoors or in the shade. Solvent selectivity also means the adhesive remover can go onto freshly polished surfaces without wrecking the polishing work — the organic abrasive carriers in the polish get dissolved, which after a polishing job can actually be a handy side effect during glue removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Stain Ex the right way — on target and safe during glue removal\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the adhesive remover calls for a targeted approach and respect for the solvent chemistry. Step 1 — prep: rough-wash the car or the affected area to get loose dirt off, so it doesn't scratch when you wipe with the solvent cloth. Identify the glue spot and pre-clean any mechanically removable bits (peelable scraps of film, for example) — only then treat the glue film left on the surface with the Stain Ex.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 2 — application: put Stain Ex onto a clean microfibre or lint-free cloth — don't spray it straight onto the paint if you can't precisely control how much comes out. Lay the damp cloth on the glue spot and let it dwell for 30–60 seconds — don't rub, just lay it on and wait so the solvent can swell the glue. Then wipe with light pressure — the swollen glue lets go and stays on the cloth. For more stubborn residue, repeat the pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 3 — aftercare: rinse the cleaned area with clean water or wipe it down with a mild cleaner (car shampoo and water, say) to clear off any solvent residue completely. Then dry the area and check the glue is fully gone. If you're prepping the spot for a new wrap job or sealant, it's worth following the glue removal with a panel-wipe step using the SONAX PROFILINE Prepare, to get the surface perfectly ready for the new coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the Stain Ex earns its keep — typical glue-removal jobs\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex\u003c\/strong\u003e covers every typical adhesive-removal scenario in the professional vehicle world. Factory stickers and dealer labels on new cars: new vehicles often turn up with price labels, spec plates and promo stickers that have to come off after delivery. The glue left behind once you peel those labels won't wash off — the Stain Ex lifts it without a trace.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFilm removal after lettering: company cars, vans and lettered vehicles get reconditioned at the end of their use or lease term. The glue residue from vehicle graphics is often spread over a large area and stubborn — the Stain Ex makes for efficient work over the whole panel. On very large areas (full side panels), it's worth soaking a bigger cloth and working section by section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTar and bitumen residue: road tar, kicked up off warm asphalt as you drive and stuck to sills, lower door edges and wheel arches, is a classic detailing headache. For widespread tar spots the specialist \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-teerentferner-teerentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TeerEntferner\u003c\/a\u003e is the tool — for the odd bit of tar spatter the Stain Ex works too, with the bonus that it dissolves other contaminants around the tar at the same time. Wax residue on rubber parts, stubborn polishing-oil build-up and bug bodies that won't come off without chemical help all react to the adhesive remover as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOther jobs in the professional day-to-day: on cars with paint protection film applied (PPF — Paint Protection Film), removing the positioning tape often leaves glue at the cut edges — the Stain Ex clears those edge residues precisely, without attacking the freshly applied film itself, as long as you use it on target and with a controlled amount. On interior work the product lifts glue left by stickers on plastic trim, adhesive from removed window tint on the glass, and stubborn resin marks on smooth surfaces. The 1-litre spray-bottle design lets you apply directly and under control — either onto a cloth or, in justified exceptions, straight onto the glue spot when precise dosing is guaranteed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe adhesive remover compared — the Stain Ex in the product line-up\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe professional detailing range has different specialist products for glue removal and decontamination. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex\u003c\/strong\u003e sits as the universal adhesive remover that dissolves a wide range of glue residue — without specialising in a single type of glue. Against specific contaminants like tar, the PROFILINE TeerEntferner is purpose-built and more effective; for mineral contamination (limescale, rust), acidic cleaners like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/a\u003e are the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Stain Ex fills the gap between specialist cleaners: as an all-rounder for organic glue and stain removal, it's the tool detailers reach for when neither the wheel cleaner, nor the alkaline pre-cleaner, nor the glass cleaner has cracked the problem. The \"stain and adhesive remover\" category is a fixed part of every professional detailing kit, because vehicle life throws a whole range of organic substances onto surfaces that standard cleaners just can't dissolve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with household adhesive removers (petrol- or ethanol-based, say), the Stain Ex as a pro product brings the advantage of higher concentration together with a lower risk of paint attack at short dwell times. Household products are often either too weak (useless against hard glue) or too aggressive for sensitive car paint. The Stain Ex is built as the middle ground, delivering reliable results in professional use at an acceptable level of surface tolerance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex — pack sizes and a tip from experience\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 1 litre and as a 2x 1 litre set. The 1-litre bottle is built for regular pro use in detailing businesses: applied on target and sparingly, one litre stretches across a great many individual glue-removal jobs — each glue spot or small label removal only needs a few millilitres. The 2-pack is ideal for businesses that regularly recondition vehicles with vehicle graphics or handle large-area glue removal on a regular basis.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses that keep the product on the shelf for good, we'd add it to the standard cleaning kit alongside the TeerEntferner, the wheel cleaner and the alkaline pre-cleaner — together these products cover the full spectrum of organic and inorganic vehicle contamination. The adhesive remover is the answer for everything that neither water nor standard cleaners can shift.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe economics show up clearly in day-to-day use: since you only need very small amounts per application — typically 1–2 ml per glue spot — one litre stretches across a very large number of individual jobs. Against household alternatives, the pro product pays for itself fast through its higher effectiveness and the smaller amount you need. Detailers working on cars every day value the reliable consistency above all: a professional adhesive remover that performs the same way every time saves working hours and cuts the risk of rework from glue residue that didn't fully come off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex\u003c\/strong\u003e is the essential product for every situation where glue residue, stubborn stains or organic contaminants show up on vehicle surfaces. Pro detailers value it as a dependable tool that uses less than you'd expect, works effectively and looks after the surfaces it treats, as long as you use it as directed.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53622680060239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2533000","price":26.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53622680093007,"sku":"D1-SNX-2533000_2","price":53.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53622680125775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2533000_3","price":80.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-stain-ex-klebstoffentferner-kleberentferner_1-liter.png?v=1731054541"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat","title":"PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate Glass Cleaner Concentrate","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean glass streak-free and let your clay bar glide safely with the SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate special? This ammonia-free glass cleaner concentrate cleans all vehicle glass and mirror surfaces streak-free, doubles as a clay lube, and dilutes up to 1:20 — easy on the budget for a professional operation.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you detail cars day in, day out, you know the problem: supermarket glass cleaners leave streaks, flash off too fast, or just won't work as a clay lube. Pro glass work needs a concentrate that ticks several boxes at once. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e is ammonia-free, leaves no streaks on vehicle glass, mirrors or windscreens — and at a 1:4 dilution it doubles as clay lube for working the clay bar across paint and glass. Two jobs, one concentrate, up to four working strengths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAmmonia-free — safe on tinted glass and coatings.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plenty of standard glass cleaners use ammonia as the solvent. Ammonia attacks tint film on side windows, can soften hydrophobic coatings and leaves unwanted residue on mirror surfaces. The Glass Detailer Concentrate skips ammonia entirely — so it's safe to use on all common vehicle glass, coated panes and side mirrors.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo jobs in one: glass cleaner and clay lube.\u003c\/strong\u003e Mixed 1:4, the Glass Detailer Concentrate makes an effective clay lube. Clay lube protects the paint from micro-scratches while you clay and lets the clay bar glide evenly across the surface. One concentrate for both jobs saves space on the cart and cuts costs compared to buying two specialist products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDilutes up to 1:20 — goes a long way in the shop.\u003c\/strong\u003e Depending on how dirty the glass is and where you're using it, you can dial the concentrate to different strengths. At 1:10 to 1:20 the Glass Detailer Concentrate handles daily routine cleaning of lightly soiled glass. That makes it seriously economical: one litre of concentrate gives you up to 20 litres of ready-to-use glass cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For cleaning the inside of windscreens, bump the strength up to 1:6 — interior glass has to cut fingerprints, grease and tobacco film, which are tougher to shift than outside grime. Lay the diluted Glass Detailer down with a clean microfibre cloth, work in circles and buff off with a second, dry cloth. Don't spray straight onto hot glass in direct sun — it flashes off too fast and leaves streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAmmonia-free glass cleaner concentrate — formulation and how it works in detail\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eGlass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e runs on a surfactant-solvent system with no ammonia. Surfactants drop the surface tension of the water so grease, finger marks and wiper haze lift evenly off the glass and get picked up by the cloth weave. The solvent blend in the concentrate also drives a fast, residue-free dry-off — the glass film flashes off before fresh streaks can form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAmmonia shows up in a lot of household glass cleaners as a fast-evaporating solvent that reliably cuts grease and oils. The catch: ammonia attacks film and paint edges, can soften the adhesive layer of tint film and leaves a tell-tale residue on coated surfaces. In a professional detailing operation, where tinted glass and coated panes are everyday work, an ammonia-free glass cleaner isn't a nice-to-have — it's a safety requirement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe dilution flexibility is another core feature: dilute the Glass Detailer Concentrate to 1:4 and you get a high-strength cleaner for heavily soiled glass with baked-on grime, wiper marks and antifreeze residue. At 1:10 to 1:20 you get a solution for quick routine cleaning after a wash or between detailing steps. That scalability is a real edge in day-to-day shop work over ready-mixed cleaners with one fixed strength.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn easily missed upside of the ammonia-free formula: the Glass Detailer Concentrate is odour-neutral. Conventional ammonia-based glass cleaners leave that sharp, distinctive smell in the cabin — it lingers and can leave a bad impression with the customer. An ammonia-free product sidesteps that completely — a detail that matters in professional customer work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnce you've diluted it in a spray bottle — say with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sprayboy-profi-spruhflasche\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Sprayboy\u003c\/a\u003e or a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-druckpumpzerstauber-fur-losemittel-spruhflasche\"\u003ePROFILINE DruckpumpZerstäuber\u003c\/a\u003e — the Glass Detailer is ready to go. The concentrate is clear and colourless and mixes with plain tap water. For hard water, dilute it with distilled water so you don't leave lime residue on the glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing Glass Detailer Concentrate right — glass cleaning and clay lube in the workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor glass cleaning the order is simple: outside first, then inside. On the outer glass, always start at the coolest part of the car and work fast in sunlight, because the cleaner flashes off quickly in direct sun and leaves streaks. Two or three sprays per pane is plenty for normal routine cleaning. Wipe off with a clean, lint-free washable microfibre cloth and buff with a second, dry cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a clay lube at 1:4, the Glass Detailer Concentrate really earns its place: spray the area down generously and run the clay bar evenly across it. The lube stops the clay dragging dry over paint or glass — claying dry would leave micro-scratches and is counterproductive. The 1:4 dilution of the Glass Detailer gives you exactly the right slip without the excess foam that gets in the way while you clay.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e — also offered in the PROFILINE range — the split is clear: the GlassCleaner comes in bulk containers (10 L, 25 L, 200 L) for shops with very high glass-cleaning demand. The Glass Detailer Concentrate in 1-litre and 5-litre containers is the flexible all-rounder for a normal detailing operation that has to cover both glass cleaning and clay work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor convertible drivers and owners of cars with a lot of glass — panoramic roof, all-round-vision design — the Glass Detailer Concentrate is a particularly economical choice. Big glass areas need more cleaning volume; with a concentrate you mix up exactly what you need without wasting an expensive ready-mixed cleaner. Keep some made up in a 500 ml spray bottle and you can quickly freshen the glass after every contact with the car, without reaching for the full cleaning kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInterior cleaning makes different demands: fingerprints, grease marks from the sunroof frame and tobacco film are more stubborn than outside grime. Here a stronger mix (1:6 or 1:4) plus a two-step approach works best: clean first, then go back over with distilled water to pull off any surfactant residue. A streak-free interior result is easy to reproduce on that basis.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass Detailer in the detailing workflow — use cases and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere are several points in a detailing job where the Glass Detailer Concentrate fits. Before paint correction: after the initial wash and before claying, you use it as clay lube. During interior cleaning: as a glass cleaner for the windscreen, side windows, interior mirror and sunroof glass. After sealing: for a final glass freshen-up that makes sure no sealant runs are left on the glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the winter months especially, the glass cleaner takes on extra importance. Antifreeze washer fluid leaves an oily film on glass and wiper rubber that water alone won't shift. The Glass Detailer Concentrate cuts through that film effectively without attacking the wiper rubber. The result: clear glass and wipers that wipe clean again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Glass Detailer Concentrate also works for glass cleaning on cars being prepped for a ceramic coating. Before applying a windscreen coating, the glass has to be absolutely grease- and residue-free. One pass with the Glass Detailer at a stronger strength, followed by an isopropanol wipe-down, sets up the ideal base — the Glass Detailer pulls off the organic residue, the IPA the last traces of solvent. That two-step is standard in professional coating shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn polycarbonate plastic glazing — as found on older convertibles, motorcycles and certain special vehicles — use the Glass Detailer with care. Plastic glazing is more sensitive to solvents than mineral glass. A test on a less visible spot confirms it's compatible before you do the whole pane.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Glass Detailer Concentrate runs out of road on heavy soiling like bug splatter, dried bird droppings and tree sap. For that kind of extreme grime you need a pre-treatment with a dedicated cleaner first; the Glass Detailer then handles the final cleaning step for a streak-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical workflow for prepping glass before sealing: first, mechanical cleaning of the outer pane with the FilzPad and glass polish to remove baked-on spots and wiper marks. Then a full clean with the Glass Detailer Concentrate at 1:4. Finally an IPA wipe as the last degrease before laying down the glass sealant. In this workflow the Glass Detailer is the bridge product between mechanical polishing and chemical prep — and lays the base for a glass sealant that reaches its full service life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass Detailer Concentrate compared — when each glass-cleaning product fits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE glass cleaner range has two concentrates with different jobs. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the bulk concentrate for high vehicle throughput — available in 10 L, 25 L and 200 L — and is aimed at car washes and large detailing operations. The Glass Detailer Concentrate in 1 L and 5 L is the flexible shop concentrate for mid-size operations and specialist jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe deciding difference is the extra function: while the GlassCleaner is built purely as a glass cleaner, the Glass Detailer Concentrate also covers clay-lube duty thanks to its make-up. If you're detailing a car and have both glass cleaning and clay work planned, the Glass Detailer Concentrate gives you a single product for both jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e — developed specifically for acrylic and plastic glazing as well as Plexiglas — the Glass Detailer Concentrate is aimed at mineral vehicle glass. Both products have their niche: for cars with plastic glazing the Acryl+GlasReiniger is the safer call; for standard vehicle glass the Glass Detailer Concentrate is the more economical and flexible tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRun both the GlassCleaner and the Glass Detailer Concentrate in the shop and you've got the right product for every situation: GlassCleaner for high-volume use in the car wash or fleet service, Glass Detailer Concentrate for the detailing workflow with clay work and specialist cleaning. The two products are matched to each other and complement rather than overlap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eReady-to-use glass cleaner from the spray-bottle aisle — the retail stuff — can't be used as clay lube, costs more per litre than the concentrate and offers no dilution flexibility. For a professional operation that watches efficiency and cost, a concentrate like the Glass Detailer Concentrate is the better solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Glass Detailer Concentrate — the right pack size for every need\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right pack size comes down to how much you use and how you store it. The 1-litre container gives you — at a typical working dilution of 1:10 — 10 litres of ready-to-use glass cleaner. For a shop doing 5–10 cars a day, that lasts several working days. The 5-litre container cuts the cost per litre of ready solution noticeably and suits operations with higher throughput, or anyone using the concentrate heavily as a clay lube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2×1-litre and 3×1-litre sets let you keep several containers in stock without the storage footprint of a big 5-litre container. If you're not sure how fast you'll get through the concentrate, start with the double set and watch your usage before stepping up to the bigger format.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a companion to the Glass Detailer Concentrate, the professional spray bottles from the SONAX PROFILINE range are well worth it. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sprayboy-profi-spruhflasche\"\u003eSprayboy\u003c\/a\u003e has an adjustable spray head you can switch between a fine mist for even coverage on glass and a focused jet for spot work. Fill different bottles for different dilutions — one for glass cleaning, one for clay lube — and you streamline the workflow a lot while avoiding constant re-mixing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who offer customers a full interior cleaning service, the Glass Detailer Concentrate is the last link in a structured cleaning chain: seats and carpets with the IntensivReinigungsBürste and interior cleaner, leather with LeatherCleaner, plastics with all-purpose cleaner — and finally all the glass with the Glass Detailer for that first clear, streak-free view. That finish isn't just about looks, it's a safety point too: clean glass with no streak film measurably improves visibility on night drives and against the light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate system is an economical, flexible foundation for glass cleaning in a professional detailing operation — from the prep phase through clay work to the final high-gloss clean of the glass after sealing. For shops building their range consistently on the SONAX PROFILINE system, this concentrate is the ideal way into an efficient, economical glass-cleaning system that grows with every further PROFILINE product and adapts to changing needs.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1 liter","offer_id":53706729685327,"sku":"D1-SNX-336300","price":14.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53706729718095,"sku":"D1-SNX-336300_2","price":26.86,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53706729750863,"sku":"D1-SNX-336300_3","price":40.29,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57340506440015,"sku":"D1-SNX-03365050","price":74.02,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat_1000ml-3363000.png?v=1732196440"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo","title":"XTREME FoamGiant Shampoo Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum foam performance for a thorough car wash — the SONAX XTREME FoamGiant\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the FoamGiant Shampoo from SONAX special? The foam concentrate lays down a giant, long-clinging foam blanket with strong dirt-lifting power — pH-neutral, safe for wraps and matt paint. 1 litre.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFoam shampoos are a fixed part of the modern car wash — but not every foam concentrate gives you the foam performance you need for a genuinely thorough clean. Either the foam collapses too fast, or the cleaning power is too weak when the formula plays it safe. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant\u003c\/strong\u003e brings both together: a giant, extremely long-clinging foam blanket with the dirt-lifting power that cars really need after motorway or city runs. And the formula stays pH-neutral and gentle enough for wraps, matt paint and freshly sealed surfaces. As a concentrated foam shampoo it adapts to different application gear — from the foam lance on a pressure washer to the hand foam sprayer — and at the right dilution it gives you dense, repeatable results. If you've never been happy with the foam your shampoo throws, here's a product built specifically for maximum foam performance, with no compromise on cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGiant foam blanket with long dwell.\u003c\/strong\u003e The special foam formula of the FoamGiant doesn't just throw a lot of foam — the foam also stays where you put it. Long-clinging foam means more dwell time: the dirt is held in contact with the cleaner for longer and lifts away far more effectively than with watery foam that runs off after a few seconds. The result is a more thorough clean with less mechanical work.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral formula — safe for wraps, matt paint and sealants.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FoamGiant wasn't built for classically painted cars alone. The pH-neutral make-up makes it compatible with wraps of every kind, matt paint and freshly applied ceramic sealants. Acidic or alkaline shampoos can break down protective layers or attack wraps — the FoamGiant washes thoroughly without touching the protection systems already on the car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFlexible concentrate for foam lance and hand sprayer.\u003c\/strong\u003e The concentrate is dialled in for use with a foam lance on a pressure washer, but it also works with hand foam sprayers. You can tune the dose to the gear and the foam consistency you want — from fine, creamy foam through to coarse, quick foam. That flexibility makes the FoamGiant a tool that adapts to your own detailing setup, not the other way around.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For maximum foam performance, pour the concentrate into the foam lance bottle first, then top up with water — not the other way around. That stops pre-foaming and gives you control over the concentration. With very hard water it pays to run a higher share of concentrate, since limescale can knock down foam stability. Lay the foam on top to bottom and let it dwell at least 3–5 minutes before you work the panel with the wash mitt. For matt paint and wraps: after rinsing, dry off with a soft drying towel — don't drag it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003epH-neutral foam formula — how the FoamGiant lifts dirt without harming surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe principle behind a pH-neutral foam shampoo is simpler than it sounds: a pH of 7 (neutral) means the product reacts neither acidic nor alkaline. That matters, because most protective layers on car paint — hard waxes, polymer sealants, ceramic coatings — get broken down by extreme pH values. An acidic shampoo (pH under 5) dissolves limescale and water spots, but it also attacks sealants. An alkaline shampoo (pH over 9) cleans very aggressively, but it can swell wraps and strip the oils out of paint. The FoamGiant lands in the middle: it cleans through surfactant action — the surfactants wrap around dirt particles and lift them off the surface without chemically reaching into the surface itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference from a standard car shampoo sits in the foam formula. Ordinary shampoos make foam when you mix them with water and air, but the quality of that foam — stability, density, how it clings to the panel — depends heavily on the foaming agents used. The FoamGiant runs a formula deliberately tuned for maximum foam dwell. That means the foam stays put as a compact blanket on the car's surface, doesn't run off straight away, and gives the surfactants enough time to bind dirt and road film. That extended dwell is the core advantage over thinner foam. At the same time there are no aggressive solvents or acids in the formula that would cause trouble on sensitive surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars with wraps the pH neutrality really earns its place. PPF film reacts sensitively to solvent-heavy or very alkaline cleaners — the elastomer layer that gives it its self-healing properties can be permanently damaged by the wrong chemistry. So if you've got a wrapped car and you want to wash it regularly with a foam lance, you're far better served by a pH-neutral foam concentrate like the FoamGiant than by a universal pressure-washer shampoo from the DIY store. The formula is also free of components that would leave unwanted gloss on matt paint and matt wraps — the matt finish survives the wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDosing and using the FoamGiant the right way — the wash workflow with a foam lance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow you use the FoamGiant depends on the gear. Most often it goes on with a foam lance on a pressure washer: here you mix 30–100 ml of concentrate with 1 litre of water and pour it into the lance bottle. The exact amount depends on the gear, the nozzle setting and your own foam preference. If you like creamy, dense foam, dose more generously — if you'd rather have a more flowing pre-foam pass, take the lower dose. With a hand foam sprayer (e.g. PROFILINE FoamSprayer) 10–30 ml per litre of water is the recommendation. The lower dose is enough, because the hand sprayer pulls less air into the mix than a high-pressure foam lance — the foam is softer and has a different texture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wash workflow ideally starts with a quick pre-rinse of the car using clean water, to flush off loose grit and stop sand particles getting worked into the paint when you lay the foam on. Then you spray the foam on top to bottom — roof, bonnet, side panels, sills last. Don't go under the 3–5 minute dwell time; on heavily soiled cars the foam can sit on the panel even longer. Important: the foam mustn't dry on. On hot summer days or in direct sun, work faster or wash the car in the shade, since dried-on shampoo can leave streaks and water spots. After the dwell comes the hand wash with a wash mitt — the foam acts as a lubricant and shields the paint from micro-scratches caused by the direct contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: pouring the concentrate straight into the foam sprayer without diluting it. Neat concentrate can clog nozzles and doesn't make better foam — quite the opposite, the foam quality drops when the ratio is off. Always water in the bottle first, then concentrate. That stops pre-foaming as you fill and gives you an even mix. After the wash, give the foam lance or sprayer bottle a quick flush with clean water — it extends the life of the gear and stops residue building up in the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — which cars and surfaces the FoamGiant suits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant\u003c\/strong\u003e suits almost every exterior surface on a modern car: painted panels in gloss and matt, wraps, chrome trim, glass, plastic exterior parts and wheels. The one limit: for badly baked-on iron fallout on wheels or for stubborn tyre deposits, a specialised cleaner gets you there faster — the FoamGiant is a wash shampoo, not a heavy-duty cleaner. It reliably pulls road film, fresh bird mess, fresh-to-lightly-dried bug splatter and dust deposits. For heavy soiling like baked-on tar, tree sap or long-dried bird mess, pre-treat with a specialised remover before the foam wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars with active protection — ceramic coatings, polymer sealants or graphene — the FoamGiant is ideal: it doesn't wash the protection out, it cleans gently over the top of it. That's a key difference from alkaline shampoos, which strip protective layers away systematically over time. So if you've got a quality sealant on the car and you want to get the most life out of it, watch the pH neutrality when you pick a shampoo. The FoamGiant is the right call for exactly this case.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional detailers washing several cars a day, the 1-litre concentrate makes economic sense too: at a dose of 50 ml per litre of water, one litre of concentrate gives you 20 litres of foam mix — enough for a whole run of cars. The concentrate form cuts storage volume and makes the product cheaper to run than ready-to-use shampoos. Against some rivals in the pro segment, the FoamGiant shows an excellent balance of foam quality and cleaning intensity, without ever being a safety risk for sensitive surfaces. That makes it a dependable everyday shampoo you can lean on wash after wash. Handy bonus: the FoamGiant concentrate is easy to buy ahead and store — the bottle barely takes up room in the garage, and since the concentrate goes on heavily diluted, one bottle lasts a lot longer than most ready-to-use shampoos. For anyone who washes regularly — private detailer or pro — that's a real cost advantage. On top of that: a dense foam blanket protects against holograms and swirl marks during the hand wash, because it cushions the direct contact between wash mitt and paint. Anyone who cares about their paint quality while washing knows how important that mechanical buffer is — and the FoamGiant delivers it reliably on every pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoamGiant compared — where it differs from other foam shampoos\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX XTREME range, the FoamGiant sits clearly as the product focused on maximum foam performance and dwell. The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-richfoam-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eXTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is also a foam shampoo from the same line, but with a profile aimed more at hand washing: creamier foam, pleasant handling with the wash mitt, a fragranced formula. If you mostly wash by hand and want a product that feels good to work with, the Rich-Foam serves you well. If on the other hand you run the foam lance regularly and want to squeeze the maximum foam yield out of the concentrate, the FoamGiant is the better call — it's explicitly tuned for the spray-application workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e rounds out the range for a different case: it carries a ceramic protection component that lightly tops up the car's protective layer with every wash. That's ideal for cars without a professional sealant, or as a caring add-on after a base seal. The FoamGiant doesn't offer this sealing effect — it's a pure wash shampoo. If you want to build a little protection at every wash, look at the Ceramic Active-Shampoo. If on the other hand you need strong foam for the pre-foam step or as a main wash product, without touching the sealant already on the car, the FoamGiant is your answer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst universal foam cleaners from the general accessories trade, the FoamGiant has the edge in being specialised for car washing: the surfactants are tuned to road grime, the formula is paint-safe, and the mix of foam quality and surface care is built around the surfaces you actually find on a car. Cheap universal cleaners can throw up a similar amount of foam short-term, but they often have uncontrolled pH values and the potential to damage coatings and wraps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX XTREME FoamGiant is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FoamGiant is the first choice for anyone who runs a foam lance or a foam sprayer as a fixed part of their wash workflow and wants a product with maximum foam performance. If you wash your car twice a week or more — say after city runs or in pollen season — you get the most out of a foam concentrate that doesn't stress the paint or any protective layers even with frequent use. That holds for the keen private detailer with their own pressure washer just as much as for the pro processing several cars a day. If you've got a car with a wrap, matt paint or a fresh ceramic seal and you want to wash it thoroughly on a regular basis without putting the protective layer at risk, the FoamGiant is a safe decision.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo round out the full foam-wash workflow alongside the FoamGiant, look at the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-foamsprayer-schaumspruher\"\u003ePROFILINE FoamSprayer\u003c\/a\u003e — the handy foam sprayer that needs no pressure washer, particularly good for quick refresh washes or for use on the road. Paired with the FoamGiant concentrate you get a compact, powerful wash kit that needs no external pressure source. For the full detailing workflow, a wax or sealant shampoo is worth reaching for as the last step after the foam wash. The FoamGiant is the solid base here: it cleans thoroughly, protects the paint mechanically through dense foam, and leaves the surface in the best shape for everything that follows. The 1-litre bottle covers plenty of washes and offers excellent value for a specialised foam concentrate of this quality. Once you've washed with the FoamGiant, you'll see the difference from an ordinary car shampoo straight away — and you'll hardly want to switch back.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57341846847823,"sku":"D1-SNX-02903000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo_1000ml.png?v=1774730123"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger","title":"PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger Glass Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean acrylic and Plexiglas surfaces streak-free with the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger do? This specialist cleaner lifts fingerprints, dust and light soiling off acrylic, Plexiglas and real glass surfaces — streak-free, gentle on the material and without the residue that attacks sensitive plastic glazing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcrylic glass and Plexiglas are more delicate than most people think: ordinary glass cleaners often contain alcohol or ammonia, which over time leave plastic surfaces dull, brittle and cracked. If you want to clean motorhome windows, motorcycle windscreens, headlight covers or touchscreens properly, you need a product formulated specifically for these surfaces. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly that — a gentle, material-friendly formula that cleans acrylic and Plexiglas surfaces streak-free while keeping them clear for the long haul. Unlike harsh all-purpose cleaners, the PROFILINE formula respects the softer structure of plastic glazing and leaves behind neither milky smears nor material damage. That makes it an essential tool in any detailing business that looks after not just cars but also motorhomes, motorcycles or commercial vehicles with plastic glazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStreak-free cleaning without aggressive solvents.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula skips the ingredients that attack plastic glazing. The result: a clear view with no milky smears, even on dark or tinted acrylic panes. On motorhomes and caravans, where acrylic panes cover large areas, you notice the difference straight away. The formula leaves no film-like residue that shows up in backlight or attracts dust — a common problem with the wrong cleaners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile — from Plexiglas to touchscreen.\u003c\/strong\u003e This cleaner isn't tied to one job: it works equally well on acrylic glass, Plexiglas, polycarbonate, real glass, mirrors and touchscreens. So you save yourself a handful of specialist products and have one cleaner for all the glass work in the shop. Day-to-day that means you reach for the same product whether you're cleaning a motorhome window, a motorcycle visor or the infotainment display.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProfessional 5-litre container for everyday use.\u003c\/strong\u003e In the PROFILINE format as a 5-litre canister, you get a product designed for commercial use in detailing businesses, motorhome workshops and detailing studios. The quantity lasts a long time even with daily use — and the price per litre stays well below that of smaller containers. For businesses turning out dozens of vehicles week after week, that's a real cost advantage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the Acryl+GlasReiniger onto a clean, soft microfibre cloth rather than straight onto the pane — that way you avoid overdosing and stop the cleaner running into seals or gaps. On big surfaces like motorhome windows, work in lanes from top to bottom and wipe straight after with a second, dry microfibre cloth. Important: only use short-pile, soft cloths — long-pile or coarse microfibre can leave fine scratches on acrylic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcrylic glass cleaner for sensitive plastic panes — how the formula works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key difference between an acrylic glass cleaner and a standard glass cleaner is the chemical make-up. Standard glass cleaners rely on isopropanol or ammonia to cut through greasy films fast — on mineral glass that works perfectly. On acrylic glass (PMMA) and polycarbonate, though, these substances attack the softer plastic surface. The damage doesn't show right away; it creeps in. After weeks and months the panes turn cloudy, fine hairline cracks form, and what's known as stress cracking sets in. That's especially painful on high-quality motorhome windows or motorcycle windscreens, where a replacement quickly runs into several hundred euros. Once you've watched this slow process unfold on a customer's vehicle, you understand straight away why a dedicated acrylic glass cleaner isn't a luxury but active damage prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger sidesteps this problem with a surfactant-based formula that emulsifies dirt and fingerprints without attacking the material structure. The surfactants wrap around dirt particles and lift them off the surface, so they're picked up completely as you wipe. At the same time the formula leaves no residue that draws in fresh dirt — the pane stays clean longer than after a clean with household remedies or unsuitable products. This self-cleaning effect isn't a marketing promise but a direct result of the residue-free formula: where no sticky leftovers sit on the surface, less dust sticks too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere's another aspect many people overlook: acrylic glass builds up static. Ordinary cleaners often make this worse, because they charge the surface as they evaporate. The Acryl+GlasReiniger works against this and cuts the static charge. In practice that means dust particles don't immediately settle back onto the freshly cleaned pane — a measurable plus, especially on touchscreens and displays inside the vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutral nature of the formula matters too. Acrylic glass reacts badly to strongly acidic or strongly alkaline cleaners — either can attack the surface chemically and cause irreversible clouding. The SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger sits in the neutral pH range and therefore suits coated acrylic panes too, the kind increasingly fitted to modern caravans and motorhomes. These coatings are meant to filter UV radiation or make the pane more scratch-resistant — an aggressive cleaner can damage them, while the PROFILINE formula respects the coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCleaning Plexiglas — the right technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the Acryl+GlasReiniger is straightforward, but a few details make the difference between a good and a perfect result. The most important ground rule: never work on hot surfaces. Direct sunlight or heated-up panels make the cleaner evaporate too fast — streaks and edges follow. A shaded spot is ideal, or cleaning early in the morning while the surfaces are still cool. On motorhomes that have stood in the sun all day, it pays to cool the panes down first with cold water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the job, fill the cleaner undiluted into a pump sprayer and lay it down evenly across the surface. Then wipe over the pane in straight lanes with a clean, soft microfibre cloth — no circular motions, because on acrylic circular moves can leave fine micro-scratches that show up under certain light as swirl marks. A second dry cloth picks up the last of the moisture and gives you that streak-free finish. For more stubborn soiling on motorhome windows or a motorcycle windscreen, let the cleaner dwell for ten to fifteen seconds before you wipe — don't let it dry on, because dried cleaning residue can leave marks that are tough to remove.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a commercial setting a standardised three-step routine pays off: first, rinse off coarse soiling with plenty of clear water — that clears away grit and big particles that would otherwise scratch when you wipe later. Second, apply the SONAX Acryl+GlasReiniger and let it dwell. Third, wipe in straight lanes with a soft microfibre cloth and dry off with a second cloth. On caravan work in particular, where the panes are often large, this structured routine saves time and prevents rework. For especially stubborn insect remains or tree-sap marks on acrylic glass, you should let a separate insect remover dwell first — the Acryl+GlasReiniger is built as a cleaner for everyday soiling, not as a heavy-duty cleaner for extreme dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the Acryl+GlasReiniger isn't frost-resistant. So keep it in a heated area during the cold season. A product that has frozen once can lose its cleaning power, because the emulsion separates and no longer sprays evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it shines — the jobs that bring out the acrylic glass cleaner's full strength\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common job in practice is cleaning motorhomes and caravans. Almost all motorhome windows are made of acrylic glass — they're lighter than real glass and don't break as easily, but they react badly to the wrong cleaners. If you work here regularly with the SONAX Acryl+GlasReiniger, you keep the panes clear for years and head off the dreaded yellowing. What you see day-to-day: caravans whose acrylic panes have been looked after consistently with a material-friendly cleaner score noticeably better at valuation than ones treated with household cleaners — because cloudy or scratched panes jump out at any inspection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA second important area: motorcycle windscreens and visors. These too are almost always polycarbonate or acrylic and won't take aggressive glass cleaners. Here a practical advantage of the Acryl+GlasReiniger comes into play: you can use it easily on the road too, when the windscreen is covered in insect remains after a run down a country road. A small pump sprayer with the cleaner and a soft cloth are enough to get your view back fast — without stressing the material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third area, which often gets underrated, is touchscreens and displays — in the vehicle, on infotainment systems, sat navs or in commercial machinery. The cleaner lifts fingerprints residue-free and cuts the static charge, so fresh dust particles aren't drawn straight back. If you regularly detail vehicle interiors in a detailing business, you know the problem: fingerprints on the central display often look worse after a clean with a normal glass cleaner than before, because the cleaner leaves a smeary film. With the SONAX Acryl+GlasReiniger that doesn't happen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn real glass the cleaner works perfectly too. If you don't want to keep a separate product for every type of glass in your detailing business, you can use the Acryl+GlasReiniger as an all-in-one solution. It doesn't replace the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e, but it complements it nicely: the Glass Detailer is a concentrate optimised for fast glass cleaning on real glass and can be diluted, while the Acryl+GlasReiniger goes on undiluted wherever plastic glazing is involved. In practice, plenty of businesses keep both products on the shelf — the Glass Detailer for everyday windscreen and side-window cleaning, the Acryl+GlasReiniger for special cases with sensitive surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcrylic glass cleaner compared — PROFILINE vs. caravan version vs. household remedies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger, SONAX also offers a caravan version in a smaller container. The difference: the caravan version is aimed at end users and comes with its own spray head in a handy 750 ml bottle — ideal for the occasional clean at home or on the campsite. The PROFILINE canister with five litres, on the other hand, is meant for everyday use in the shop and is clearly cheaper per litre. The two products are comparable in formula, but the PROFILINE format is the more economical choice for detailers working through several vehicles a day. From experience, a five-litre canister lasts several weeks of heavy use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe'd steer you well clear of household remedies like washing-up liquid water or vinegar solutions on acrylic glass. Washing-up liquid often leaves residue that shows up as a milky haze on plastic glazing. Vinegar is acidic and can attack the surface over time, especially on coated acrylic panes. Pure alcohol solutions, often passed around online as an insider tip, are no good idea either: isopropanol can soften PMMA and cause irreversible clouding. The supposed saving from household remedies quickly turns into an expensive mistake when acrylic panes have to be replaced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd microfibre cloths aren't all the same either — for acrylic, only soft, short-pile cloths with a low GSM are suitable. Coarse all-purpose microfibre cloths can cause fine scratches. If you work professionally with acrylic glass, keep a separate stack of soft cloths just for plastic glazing and never use them for other cleaning jobs where dirt particles could get into the weave. When in doubt: better a fresh cloth than a \"probably clean\" one — because a single grain of sand in the weave is enough for a visible scratch on the delicate acrylic surface. That sounds over-cautious, but it's the difference between a professional and an average result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Acryl+GlasReiniger is the right call for anyone who works regularly with plastic glazing. The 5-litre PROFILINE container is especially economical and practical for motorhome detailers cleaning acrylic panes every day. The investment pays for itself after just a few jobs compared with smaller containers. Motorcycle workshops benefit too, because the cleaner works equally well on windscreens, visors and instrument covers — one less product in the store.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses the Acryl+GlasReiniger makes sense as an add-on to the regular glass-cleaning workflow. Pairing it with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e covers the tough cases too: first knock out light scratches and clouding mechanically with the glass polish, then go back over it streak-free with the Acryl+GlasReiniger. On badly hazed polycarbonate headlight covers, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e can go in first to grind the surface clear again — then the Acryl+GlasReiniger handles the fine clean. For interior surfaces, touchscreens and sensitive surfaces, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e rounds out the setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses with a mixed customer base — car detailing, motorhome work, motorcycle care — the Acryl+GlasReiniger trims the product range in the store. Instead of keeping separate cleaners for acrylic, polycarbonate and real glass, one product covers all three materials. That simplifies training new staff and cuts the risk that an unsuitable cleaner accidentally ends up on sensitive plastic panes — a mistake that crops up in practice more often than you'd think.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth knowing: the Acryl+GlasReiniger is a cleaner, not a sealant. It lifts dirt and brings clarity, but offers no lasting protection against UV radiation or mechanical wear. If you want to protect your acrylic panes on top, you can apply a material-friendly plastic sealant after cleaning. For the pure cleaning job — and for most people that's the main need — the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger delivers exactly what it promises: streak-free clarity on all common acrylic and glass surfaces, gentle on the material and with no compromise on cleaning power.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344859832655,"sku":"D1-SNX-07385050","price":34.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-acryl-glasreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1774741500"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-all-purpose-cleaner-foam-universalreiniger","title":"PROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner \"Foam\" APC","description":"\u003ch2\u003eAn all-purpose cleaner in foam form — SONAX PROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner \"Foam\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is an All-Purpose-Cleaner Foam and what do you use it for? The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner \"Foam\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a foam-based all-purpose cleaner in a 400 ml aerosol can — the foam holds the cleaner on vertical surfaces, stretches the dwell time and lets you clean textile, plastic, carpet and interior surfaces with a single product.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMost surfaces inside a car sit vertical or steeply angled: door cards, A-pillars, the dashboard and seat backs. Classic liquid cleaners run straight off these surfaces and barely get any dwell time before they drip to the floor. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner \"Foam\"\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with a different product format: as a spray foam it clings to vertical surfaces and keeps the cleaning agent right where you need it. The stable foam stretches the dwell time on hard-to-reach and vertical surfaces by a long way — no running off, no wasted product. The 400 ml aerosol can is the compact, ready-to-use answer for interior cleaning in pro work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFoam-based agent for maximum dwell time on vertical surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once you spray it on, the APC Foam clings to the surface and releases the cleaning agent steadily over several minutes. That longer dwell time matters most with crusted-on stains, dried-in dirt and grease build-up on plastic surfaces — the active substances get time to emulsify the dirt particles before you go back over with the cloth. The result is a more thorough clean with less elbow grease.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile on textile, plastic, carpet and interior surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e A true all-purpose cleaner doesn't need different products for different interior surfaces: the APC Foam cleans plastic dashboards, fabric seats, Alcantara surfaces, velour carpets, rubber seals and faux leather with the same technique. That trims the product stock you keep on hand and boils interior cleaning down to a single product for nearly every surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCompact aerosol format for quick reach and clean handling.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 400 ml format is built for mobile work and grab-and-go availability: the can fits in any tool bag and is ready to use with no decanting or diluting. Unlike concentrate products that have to be measured out and poured into spray bottles, the APC Foam works straight from the can — ideal for mobile detailers and for a quick touch-up between detailing steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spray the PROFILINE APC Foam onto the surface you want to clean, let it dwell for 1–2 minutes and lift it off with a lightly damp microfibre cloth. On textile and carpet it pays to work the foam in with a soft brush before you take it off with the cloth — that way the dirt bound up in the fibres lets go more completely. On delicate surfaces like Alcantara or pale fabrics, test on a hidden spot first. As a pre-clean before a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-fabriccoating-textilimpragnierung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FabricCoating textile sealant\u003c\/a\u003e the APC Foam is a solid pick — it cleans thoroughly without harsh solvents that would damage the textile structure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the APC Foam is formulated — foam-based cleaning and pH value\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner \"Foam\"\u003c\/strong\u003e carries a mix of surfactants and emulsifiers, brought to a stable foam consistency in an aerosol formulation with propellant. The surfactants in the APC Foam are built for a broad range of dirt: they emulsify fats and oils (the typical marks on steering wheels and gear knobs), break the dust bonds on plastic (that familiar \"sticky film\" on old dashboards) and back up the mechanical lift of dried-in dirt on carpets.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH value of the APC Foam sits in the slightly alkaline range — strong enough to clean effectively, but gentle enough for delicate surfaces like Alcantara and dyed textiles. Strongly acidic or strongly alkaline cleaners would attack the colour on Alcantara and damage that signature suede look. The mild formulation of the APC Foam is tuned to the varied demands of a car interior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne technical point that often gets overlooked day-to-day: shaking before use matters more with spray-foam products than with liquid cleaners. The propellant and the active agent can separate inside the can when it sits unused for a while. A solid 5–10-second shake before use gives you even foam quality and the best cleaning action. Spray without shaking and you often get almost pure propellant with no agent first — which is why that supposed \"first spray\" does nothing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam in the APC Foam is formulated to stay stable for 2–4 minutes after you lay it down, then slowly collapse into a lightly damp, cleaning-active layer. That collapse point is the ideal moment for the mechanical clean with cloth or brush: the cleaner has worked its way into the surface by then and the loosened dirt comes off completely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the APC Foam — interior cleaning, surfaces and dwell time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe standard run for interior cleaning with the APC Foam: shake the can, spray evenly onto the surface you want to clean (about 15–20 cm away), let it dwell for 1–3 minutes, wipe off with a soft microfibre cloth and follow up with a dry cloth if needed. On carpets and upholstery it pays to work the foam in mechanically with a soft brush before you wipe — that lifts more deeply embedded dirt than wiping alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor heavily soiled or strongly odour-laden textile areas (driver-side carpets with ground-in dirt, rear seats with kids' stains), a two-pass approach works well: spray and work in a first coat, take it off roughly with a dry cloth, then a second coat for the finishing clean. The two-layer method pulls out stubborn stains that the first pass only loosened through the dirt and that come off completely on the second.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common use in the pro world is spot treatment: you can target single stains on upholstery or carpets with the APC Foam without cleaning the whole seat. The foam sprays precisely onto the stain without wetting the neighbouring clean area. That comes in handy in day-to-day dealership work, where a showroom car has to be back in perfect shape fast after a customer's been in it — with no full interior clean. Single fingerprints on Alcantara, fresh coffee marks on the carpet mat or dirt streaks on the steering wheel are gone in minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a pro detailing operation the APC Foam works for a quick interior clean between the exterior detail and handover: 10–15 minutes to clean the key interior surfaces (dashboard, door cards, carpets) with the APC Foam, and the car is in handover-ready shape — no full deep-clean process needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the APC Foam works — interior, boot and detail cleaning\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe APC Foam covers every textile and hard surface inside the car: dashboard and centre console in hard plastic, door cards with a fabric or faux-leather panel, seat surfaces in fabric or Alcantara, textile headliners, carpet on the floor and in the boot, plus rubber seals on doors and windows. For each of these surfaces the APC Foam works as a single product — no product swap, no extra measuring of concentrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHeadliners call for extra care: the headliner is often a textile material with an adhesive layer underneath. Cleaning too wet or letting cleaners dwell too long can loosen that adhesive on older cars, which leads to the headliner sagging. The APC Foam is gentle enough for headliners as long as you apply it sparingly and don't lay it on in excess. Short dwell time (1 minute) and gentle dabbing instead of rubbing protects the headliner adhesive. On very old cars, or where the headliner is visibly starting to sag, skip aggressive wet cleaning altogether.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond the interior, the APC Foam also suits quick detail cleaning on exterior parts: engine-bay plastic trim, boot carpets and boot liners can be cleaned with the same product. You can use it on metal surfaces, but that isn't the main use case — for paint and wheels there are more specialised products in the PROFILINE range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe APC Foam compared — all-purpose cleaners in the PROFILINE range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the PROFILINE interior cleaning range the APC Foam rounds out the other cleaning products: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is a classic liquid interior cleaner for the base clean with a spray bottle; the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the eco-certified, mild all-rounder for delicate surfaces. The APC Foam rounds these out as the format for quick, vertical-surface cleaning — where a liquid cleaner doesn't cling efficiently.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations cleaning a lot of car interiors regularly, the APC Foam makes sense alongside a concentrate-based interior cleaner: the concentrate for the large-area base clean, the APC Foam for the detail work on hard-to-reach or vertical spots. The combination of both product formats covers every interior cleaning need efficiently.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner \"Foam\" — for interior cleaning and detail work\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 400 ml format of the APC Foam is ideal for mobile detailers, interior cleaning pros and operations after a compact interior cleaning solution for quick work. The aerosol format makes handling especially easy: no decanting, no diluting, ready to use right away. Dosing through the can's spray head is easy to control — too much foam on delicate surfaces is easy to meter back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStoring aerosol products like the APC Foam means following a few ground rules: temperatures above 50 °C (in a car interior in summer, say, or near radiators) can raise the internal pressure of the can and lead to damage. So keep the can out of direct sunlight and don't leave it lying in hot cars. Stored properly below 25 °C and away from any direct heat source, the product is stable and keeps without limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations with very high interior cleaning demand, the combination of APC Foam for details and a larger interior-cleaner concentrate for the base clean works well — that way the APC Foam isn't your daily high-volume cleaner but the specialist product for quick, precise jobs. As a verified SONAX dealer at Detailing1, the PROFILINE APC Foam is part of the regular range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":57344925073743,"sku":"D1-SNX-2743000","price":8.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-all-purpose-cleaner-foam_400ml.png?v=1774730099"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger","title":"PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" interior cleaner","description":"\u003c!-- BLOCK 1: body_html --\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eEco-certified pro interior cleaner for every surface — SONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does Ecocert certification mean on a car cleaner? Ecocert is an independent body that tests cleaning and care products for natural ingredients and environmental compatibility. PROFILINE CleanStar carries that mark — with 99.75% naturally sourced ingredients and a pH-neutral value of 6.5-7.5.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCar interiors today are built from ever more delicate materials: Alcantara, leather, matte plastics, chrome trim and touchscreen surfaces all need cleaners that are tough on dirt but gentle on the material. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly that brief: a ready-to-use universal interior cleaner that handles every surface inside the cabin — from fabric seats through leather to glass and plastic — while leaning on an Ecocert-certified formula with 99.75% naturally sourced ingredients. Available in 5, 25 and 200 litre containers: the product for businesses that need an ecologically sound cleaning solution at scale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEcocert-certified — verified natural ingredients.\u003c\/strong\u003e Ecocert certification isn't a marketing claim, it's an independent check by an accredited certification body. The CleanStar \"Ecocert\" is 99.75% naturally sourced — anionic and amphoteric plant-based surfactants, no synthetic solvents. The pH window of 6.5-7.5 is gentle on every common interior surface; neither leather nor Alcantara nor glass gets attacked by this pH-neutral cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUniversal interior cleaner for every surface — one product instead of many.\u003c\/strong\u003e The CleanStar cleans interior glass, fabric seats, leather, Alcantara, plastics (coated and uncoated), rubber and metal trim. That versatility saves you switching time and shelf space in pro work: instead of grabbing a different product for each surface, you work through the whole cabin with a single bottle. Move from delicate to robust surfaces as you go — a cloth dirty from plastic does no harm on glass, and either way it's less of an issue than with strongly abrasive cleaners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePro container sizes from 5 to 200 litres for businesses of every size.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE CleanStar comes in three bulk sizes: 5 litres for smaller workshops and mobile detailing, 25 litres for mid-sized operations and 200 litres for large accounts, dealership chains and fleet-care businesses. The 200 litre drum makes it a practical long-term answer for industrial interior-cleaning demand — no frequent reordering, and matching volume savings on price.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e When you work the headliner, never spray straight onto the surface — always onto the microfibre cloth. The headliner is often glued layers; a direct mist can soak in and loosen the bond. On Alcantara, run the cloth with light pressure and always in one direction (with the nap) — no circular motions that rough up the fibres. For interior glass, lay CleanStar onto a dry microfibre cloth and wipe in overlapping horizontal passes; then buff with a second dry cloth. For a full interior clean, stick to a clear workflow: ceiling → glass → dashboard → doors → seats → floor. That way no cleaned area gets dirtied again by a later step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eEcocert certification and natural ingredients — what sets the SONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" apart from conventional cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ecocert certification is the core difference between the CleanStar and other SONAX PROFILINE interior cleaners. Ecocert is a French certification body that has tested and certified natural and organic products to defined standards since 1991. For a cleaning product, Ecocert certification means the ingredients must come in large part from natural or naturally derived sources; synthetic solvents, petrochemical derivatives and certain preservatives are either banned or tightly limited. The CleanStar meets these requirements with a 99.75% naturally sourced content.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe surfactants in the CleanStar are plant-derived — anionic and amphoteric surfactants made from renewable raw materials (mostly coconut or palm oil derivatives). These plant-based surfactants have a cleaning profile comparable to synthetic equivalents, but break down far better in wastewater. For businesses that run their wastewater management to ecological standards or are chasing environmental certifications, the biodegradability of the ingredients is a real criterion when picking a product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother point worth flagging on the natural formula: odour emissions. Conventional interior cleaners with synthetic solvents often leave a sharp chemical smell that lingers in the cabin after cleaning and can put customers off — especially at handover. Thanks to its plant-based surfactants, the CleanStar has a much milder, fresh scent of its own that clears completely after a short airing. For dealerships and businesses that care about a pleasant smell after an interior clean, that's a noticeable difference in the customer experience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH value of 6.5-7.5 is decisive for material compatibility. Many aggressive interior cleaners work in the alkaline range (pH 8-11), which delivers strong soil-lifting power but dries out leather, damages Alcantara and attacks coated plastics. The CleanStar, in its near-neutral pH range, is by contrast safe to use on all the materials named — it's easy on the surfaces while still cleaning normal car dirt well (dust, fingerprints, drink residue). For very heavy soiling (blood, engine oil, tar) stronger, non-Ecocert-certified cleaners are often more effective; for everyday and care work the CleanStar is positioned just right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe preservatives in the CleanStar — 2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-Benzisothiazolin-3-one and Methylisothiazolinone — are the one point where sensitive users might prick up their ears: these preservatives can cause skin irritation in some people. But they are present in very low concentrations (well under the legally permitted maximums) and are harmless for professional use with normal hand protection. Ecocert certification does not rule out these preservatives in acceptable amounts — they're needed to keep the product stable over its shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing CleanStar \"Ecocert\" — a ready-to-use cleaner for every interior surface\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe CleanStar \"Ecocert\" is ready to use — no dilution needed. That direct-use design is a clear win for pro work: no measuring, no mixing, straight from the bottle. Spray the product onto a microfibre cloth (SONAX recommends the Scheibe+Innen microfibre cloth) and apply it to the surface you're cleaning. The spray foams up moderately — no over-foaming that would be hard to pull out of upholstery.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe workflow for a full car interior: work top to bottom. Clean the headliner first with a sparing cloth application, then interior glass, dashboard and cockpit plastics, door cards, seats and finally floor mats and floor. Rinse the cloth in fresh water regularly and re-spray it with product — a heavily soiled cloth moves more dirt than it picks up. For stubborn soiling on a given spot, apply cleaner to the cloth several times and let it dwell; the key is patience, not pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass (windscreen, side windows, interior mirror) the CleanStar is especially effective against the hazy film that forms on the glass of cars with a lot of plastic off-gassing inside. This silicone-laden film from plastic out-gassing is stubborn and many universal cleaners struggle to shift it. With its amphoteric surfactants, the CleanStar cuts through the greasy film more efficiently than purely anionic cleaners. For the best glass finish, use a dry buffing cloth until no streaks are left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor child-transport vehicles, ambulances and commercial vehicles with frequently changing passengers, the CleanStar is a particularly good fit, since the natural ingredients carry less irritation risk on accidental skin contact than synthetic cleaner alternatives. For end customers with sensitive skin, or who react to synthetic chemicals in the cabin, the Ecocert formula is a preferred choice. This product-safety angle is especially relevant for businesses maintaining care fleets for nurseries, care services or medical transport.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlcantara calls for a special application technique: Alcantara is a microfibre synthetic fibre with a textile structure that wrong cleaning can permanently disturb (roughening, glazing). Spray the CleanStar onto the cloth (not onto the Alcantara), then wipe with light pressure in the direction of the nap (typically top to bottom on seats). No circular motions. Wipe wet-on-wet afterwards with a slightly damp, clean cloth to lift residue. Once dry, raise the Alcantara fibres with a soft clothes brush.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePro container sizes — 5, 25 and 200 litres for every operation scale\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" comes in three container sizes cut to different operation sizes. The 5 litre can is the entry point for smaller detailing businesses, mobile detailing and well-kitted hobby detailers with high consumption: 5 litres of ready-to-use cleaner lasts, used sparingly, for 50-100 full car interior cleans. The can is handy enough to carry in the vehicle and fits most tool boxes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 25 litre size is built for mid-sized detailing businesses doing 5-20 cars a day. A 25 litre canister lasts roughly 4-6 weeks at 5 cars a day, depending on how heavy the cleaning is. The price edge over the 5 litre can is already clearly noticeable at this size — the cost per litre drops sharply, which adds up to a real saving over the year in continuous use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the 25 litre size it pays to top up spray bottles from a filling station or a burette dosing system rather than working straight from the canister. That saves product through precise dosing and stops spills when pouring from a big canister into narrow spray bottles. Simple dosing pumps for 5 and 25 litre canisters are cheap in the detailing accessory trade and pay for themselves quickly through product savings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 200 litre drum is aimed at large operations, dealership chains and fleet-care services with very high cleaning volume. A 200 litre drum needs a stationary tap or a dosing pump to match, available as an accessory. For businesses cleaning 20-50 cars a day, the 200 litre drum cuts reorder frequency to a few times a year and avoids the logistics costs of frequent small orders. The cost per litre on the drum is, again, far cheaper than on the smaller containers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCleanStar \"Ecocert\" compared — PROFILINE vs. consumer and vs. Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe direct comparison with the consumer version, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/a\u003e in 750 ml: the formula is identical — same Ecocert certification, same natural ingredients, same pH neutrality. The difference is purely in container size and packaging concept: the 750 ml bottle is built for the private user with 1-2 cars, the PROFILINE container for pro use with correspondingly higher consumption. If you already know and rate the consumer version, you'll find the same product in the PROFILINE version in a professional container size with cost advantages in steady use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e a clear positioning gap shows up: the Interior Detailer Concentrate is a concentrate (dilutable 1:10 to 1:50), not Ecocert-certified, and in return has an antistatic working component the CleanStar doesn't have. If you value the eco certification and a ready-to-use solution, you reach for the CleanStar. If you want to tune the cleaner individually to different soiling levels and rate antistatic protection as important, you pick the Interior Detailer Concentrate. For businesses with a sustainability strategy, the CleanStar is the future-proof choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e is the specialist product for the most delicate materials — Alcantara, velour, the highest-grade leather variants. Where the CleanStar covers 95% of interior cleaning jobs, the SensitiveSurface Detailer is the pick for the last 5% with especially tricky surfaces. Day-to-day, a combination works well: CleanStar for the standard interior, SensitiveSurface Detailer as a backup for special materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying an eco-friendly interior cleaner — who the SONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal choice for professional detailing businesses that pick their cleaning products on ecological and sustainability-driven criteria. Businesses with ISO 14001 certification or similar environmental-management standards can use the CleanStar as a clear product record for the use of natural ingredients in their documentation. Businesses positioned in sustainable car care, or wanting to reach customers in that space, also benefit from the clear Ecocert promise in their customer communication.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the context of environmental and sustainability initiatives, the CleanStar is of interest to businesses documenting their carbon footprint and chemical use. Plant-based surfactants typically carry a lower CO₂-equivalent value in manufacturing than petrochemical derivatives; the biodegradability in wastewater lowers the environmental load on the disposal route. For businesses wanting to win ecological tenders (e.g. municipal fleet care or public transport operations), using Ecocert-certified products can be a provable quality marker in the bid documentation. Detailing1 can provide product data sheets and safety information for the CleanStar for tender documents on request. Another point concerns staff satisfaction: strong-smelling or skin-irritating cleaners are a burden in daily use. The CleanStar is formulated to be skin-friendly and has a neutral scent of its own that doesn't spoil the working atmosphere. That makes it especially suited to businesses cleaning many cars a day and watching the long-term health compatibility of the products they use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor dealerships and leasing companies with their own detailing department, the 25 or 200 litre container is the most economical solution: a uniform product range, plannable reorder intervals, and one cleaner that works for every car interior and every material — without special products for each segment. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 carries the PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" in all three container sizes permanently in its range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344938705231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2535050","price":29.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57344938737999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2537050","price":124.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57344938770767,"sku":"D1-SNX-2539000","price":1154.3,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert_5l.png?v=1774730626"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger","title":"PROFILINE FelgenReiniger wheel cleaner (SONAX)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWheel cleaner in pro-size containers — SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger for detailing shops\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhy does a detailing shop need a professional wheel cleaner? This pro wheel cleaner is an alkaline cleaner in bulk sizes up to 200 litres — it pulls brake dust, road grime and baked-on crust off alloy wheels, steel wheels and coated wheels efficiently and without harming the surface.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWheels are the dirtiest parts on the whole car: brake dust from ceramic and metallic pads, baked-in road grime and oil splatter from the engine bay combine into a layer that bakes on under hot braking and barely shifts without a strong cleaner. At the same time, wheels are often made of sensitive aluminium alloys or carry high-grade coatings that aggressive acid cleaners can attack. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e handles all of this: as an alkaline cleaner with no hydrofluoric-acid content, it pulls stubborn brake dust and wheel grime without touching the wheel surface. Available in 1 litre, 5 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre for non-stop professional use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAlkaline formula, no hydrofluoric acid — gentle on every type of wheel.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wheel cleaners with hydrofluoric acid are very effective, but they attack aluminium surfaces, clear-coat finishes and chrome trim — and over time it shows up as dulling and staining. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger works with alkaline actives that break down brake dust and grime without chemically damaging the wheel surface. It's safe on cast-alloy wheels, chrome wheels, coated wheels and steel wheels — one product for the whole shop, no sorting by wheel type.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePro sizes up to 200 litres for cost-effective daily use.\u003c\/strong\u003e On the consumer side, wheel cleaners come in 500 ml or 1 litre — for shops running dozens of cars a day, that makes no economic sense. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger comes in pro sizes up to 200 litres, so you can keep filling spray bottles and pressure sprayers for daily work. The price per litre in the 25-litre or 200-litre size is far lower than the 1-litre format — a real cost advantage for any shop that burns through a lot of wheel cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast dwell time for an efficient wash-bay workflow.\u003c\/strong\u003e In professional washes and detailing shops, dwell time matters: products that need a long soak slow you down when several cars are going through at once. On typical wheel grime, the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger shows visible results after just 1–3 minutes of dwell time — the brake dust loosens up and can be rinsed off or agitated with a wheel brush, no hard scrubbing needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, spray the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger onto dry, cool wheels — not onto hot wheels straight after a drive, or the product flashes off too fast and can leave stains. Let the wheels cool down first (at least 10 minutes after the engine's off), then spray on the cleaner, let it dwell for 2–3 minutes, work it with a suitable wheel brush and rinse thoroughly. For stubborn baked-on brake dust, bump the dwell time up to 5 minutes and don't let it dry out — re-wet it if you have to. For extreme brake dust, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger option with a colour indicator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger works — alkaline actives and brake-dust release\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e works with a pH-alkaline active system that softens the bonds between brake-dust particles and the wheel surface. Brake dust is made up of fine metal particles (iron, copper), carbon from the friction lining and organic binders. Heat from braking bakes these particles onto the wheel surface — especially on warm alloy wheels, which act as a heat sink for the brakes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe alkaline actives in the FelgenReiniger break down both the organic binders and the oxide bonds between iron particles and the aluminium surface. The result is a dirt matrix that, after enough dwell time, lifts off the wheel completely with water and a bit of brush work — without heavy mechanical pressure or aggressive acids. On wheels that get cleaned regularly, a light film often comes off with just a rinse, no brush; on neglected wheels, dwell time plus brush work is the most efficient route.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH of the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is set so it stays gentle on aluminium alloys: strongly alkaline cleaners (pH \u0026gt; 13) attack aluminium and can damage the anodising on alloy wheels. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger balances cleaning power against material compatibility for non-stop professional use, with no risk to high-grade wheel surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important point in professional use is the right dilution. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is a concentrate that you can use neat or diluted depending on how dirty the wheel is. For light, fresh dirt after a normal drive, a dilution of 1:3 (1 part cleaner, 3 parts water) is plenty. For stubborn baked-on brake dust after long standing time or hard track use, run it neat. Diluting cuts product use while still cleaning well, and it brings the cost per cleaned wheel right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FelgenReiniger — dwell time, brushing and rinsing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe standard process for wheel cleaning in the shop: do the wheels before you wash the body. Spray the wheel cleaner onto a dry or pre-wetted wheel — good coverage across all areas matters, including the inner face of the spokes and the brake areas behind them. Let it dwell for 2–3 minutes. Work it with a wheel brush (a spoke brush plus a flat wheel brush), getting into every area of the wheel. Rinse thoroughly with a strong jet of water — residue can leave stains once it dries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor automated wash-line processes, go with the 25-litre or 200-litre size: the product gets fed into the machine's wheel-cleaner tank and sprayed onto the wheels through the automatic dosing. Dwell time in a tunnel wash is short (30–60 seconds), so you should run a slightly higher concentration, or treat heavily soiled wheels by hand afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor mobile detailing, the 1-litre format in a spray bottle works well — enough for 8–12 cars per fill. If you're reordering regularly, the 5-litre size is an economical refill option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn frequently asked questions: yes, the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is also fine on cast-alloy spoke wheels with a vapour-coated or polished aluminium surface, as long as you don't overrun the dwell time. Polished alloy wheels (so-called \"Diamond Cut\" or machined wheels) react more sensitively to chemical cleaners than painted wheels: on these special wheels, let the cleaner dwell for 2 minutes max, rinse straight away with water and don't use an abrasive brush. The alkalinity of the cleaner can cause tarnishing on polished aluminium if it dwells too long — at normal dwell time the risk is minimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger fits — washes, reconditioning and mobile service\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a fixed reconditioning shop, the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is the standard product for wheel cleaning before every car detail. Even on cars going in for polishing or sealing, the wheels need to be clean — brake dust on the wheels would get flung onto the freshly polished paint by spray water during the job and create new scratches. Cleaning the wheels as the first step of every detail with the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is a must, not an option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCar dealers reconditioning used cars get through a lot of wheel cleaner: every car in intake recon needs clean wheels before it hits the showroom. The 25-litre size covers the demand of an average-sized dealership for several weeks and saves a lot of ordering hassle and cost compared with smaller sizes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PROFILINE FelgenReiniger compared — the wheel-cleaner range at SONAX\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE wheel-cleaner range has two main products: the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger (this product) and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/a\u003e with a colour indicator. The Red Max contains an iron indicator that turns reddish on contact with iron particles from brake dust, so you can see exactly where the brake dust is — handy for visually checking the cleaning result and for showing the customer (\"look how much brake dust was on your wheel\"). The standard FelgenReiniger without a colour indicator is usually cheaper and plenty for shops that don't need the colour reaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the consumer side, SONAX offers the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast wheel cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e — a strongly alkaline wheel cleaner with especially fast action. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is built for non-stop use in bulk sizes, while the FelgenBeast is a consumer format for occasional use. For shops that demand very fast action and cleaning power and don't mind the cost in bulk sizes, the Red Max in 5-litre or 25-litre can also be an option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger — sizes and cost comparison\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE FelgenReiniger comes in four sizes: 1 litre (for mobile use and getting started), 5 litre (for smaller shops and as a 1–2 month stock), 25 litre (for mid-sized shops as a quarterly supply) and 200 litre as a bulk size for large washes and fleet operators. The right size depends on your monthly use: at 10–15 cars a month the 5-litre size is ideal; at 50+ cars a month the 25-litre pays off, and for industrial use the 200-litre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops trying the FelgenReiniger for the first time, start with the 1-litre format to test the cleaning power on your own fleet. Once you're sold, move up to the 5-litre or 25-litre and enjoy the lower price per litre. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 carries every size of the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that often gets underrated day-to-day: picking the right brush. A good wheel cleaner only shows its full potential paired with a suitable wheel brush. For spoke wheels, go with a flexible spoke brush that reaches into tight gaps; for solid-face wheels, a flat bristle brush that covers the whole inner face is ideal. If you only spray and rinse without brushing, you'll always leave residue in the recesses and along the inner edges of the spokes on heavily soiled wheels. Investing in a good set of brushes is as much a part of professional wheel cleaning as the right cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344985399631,"sku":"D1-SNX-2305000","price":60.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57344985432399,"sku":"D1-SNX-2307050","price":225.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57344985465167,"sku":"D1-SNX-2309050","price":1936.13,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger_1liter.png?v=1774730640"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-flugrostentferner-kraftreiniger-sauer-eisenentferner","title":"PROFILINE Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\" Iron Remover","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove iron fallout and iron particles like a pro — SONAX PROFILINE Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\" do? This acidic iron-particle remover chemically dissolves iron fallout, brake-dust deposits and limescale on paint, glass, wheels and bodywork — built for non-stop professional use in big drums.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIron fallout is a problem plenty of car owners underestimate: what starts as a tiny rust-coloured dot can turn into real paint corrosion down the line if it's left alone. The cause sits in the nature of iron particles from brake dust, rail grime and industrial emissions — they don't just land on the surface, they dig deeper into the paint with moisture and heat and rust from the inside out. If you detail cars day in, day out, you know the drill: iron fallout and iron particles embed in paint, glass and bodywork and barely shift with regular cleaners alone. Standard shampoos don't cut it, and machine polishing would be too much hassle and too risky. What you need is an acidic iron remover that goes after them chemically. That's exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is: a professional heavy-duty cleaner for commercial use that chemically dissolves iron fallout, brake-dust deposits and limescale — in 10, 25 and 60 litre drums for continuous use in wash bays, paint shops and fleets.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAcidic heavy-duty formula for stubborn iron fallout and iron particles.\u003c\/strong\u003e The acidic formulation dissolves iron oxides chemically, without working the surface mechanically. The cleaner goes straight after the iron particles that come from brake dust, rail grime and industrial emissions and breaks them down so they rinse off clean.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBig drum sizes for non-stop commercial work.\u003c\/strong\u003e 10, 25 and 60 litres — the pack sizes are squarely aimed at the pros. If you're treating dozens of cars a day, you're better off with the economical big-drum option than with small bottles.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUse on paint, glass, wheels and bodywork.\u003c\/strong\u003e The heavy-duty cleaner suits all the usual vehicle surfaces where iron fallout settles — not just wheels, but paint, glass and outer body panels too. A broad working range for a cleaner in the pro segment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e When you work with the acidic heavy-duty cleaner, always wear protective gloves and safety goggles. Don't use the product on hot surfaces and never leave it on longer than the recommended dwell time — go over the dwell time and acidic cleaners can attack paint or sensitive surfaces. Always rinse off thoroughly with plenty of water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcidic iron remover — how the chemistry behind the heavy-duty cleaner works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIron fallout isn't ordinary dirt. Iron particles — from brake pads, rail contact and industrial emissions — literally bore into paint, glass and bodywork. Oxidation turns them into iron oxides that get locked into the paint and show on the outside as little rust-coloured dots. Machine polishing would only grind those particles in rather than pull them out. The right move is chemical: an acidic iron remover attacks the oxide layer holding the iron particles to the surface and breaks that bond. After that the particles rinse off with water — the iron fallout is gone for good. The SONAX PROFILINE Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\" works at an acidic pH that's strong enough to dissolve iron oxides effectively while staying controllable when you use it as recommended. Worth knowing: \"acidic\" here doesn't mean uncontrollably aggressive. The formula plays nice with paint and glass when you use it right — on a surface at normal working temperature, with plenty of water and within the recommended dwell time. On weathered, matte or damaged paint, take care: acidic cleaners can make existing damage worse. On intact fresh paint and coated surfaces the product is fine for occasional use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike so-called \"colour-indicator iron removers\", which signal the reaction with iron particles through a colour change, this heavy-duty cleaner shows no colour change — that's not a shortcoming but a deliberate positioning as a concentrated pro cleaner. The focus is on effectiveness and efficiency, not visual effects. For shops that need clear routines, that's an advantage: lay it on, hold the dwell time, rinse off, done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're wondering how acidic heavy-duty cleaners differ from alkaline cleaners: alkaline cleaners are built for greasy soiling like oil, soot and organic grime. Acidic cleaners, on the other hand, are made for mineral and metallic deposits — limescale, rust, iron oxides and mineral deposits from rainwater. In the professional workflow you often run both: an alkaline pre-cleaner for the organic dirt, then an acidic cleaner for iron particles and mineral residue. That two-step approach is the gold standard in professional detailing and gives you the cleanest result before any sealant or polishing work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the iron remover properly — a guide for professional use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDoing it right matters even more with an acidic heavy-duty cleaner. First, prep the vehicle with a base wash — the heavy dirt layers should be off before you lay down the iron remover. Make sure the surface isn't sitting in direct sun and isn't hot: acidic cleaners react more aggressively on warm surfaces and flash off faster, which can lead to uneven dwell. Lay the heavy-duty cleaner on evenly with a spray bottle, a pressure pump sprayer or a foam gun. The recommended dwell time varies with how dirty the surface is — usually 2–5 minutes for normal iron fallout. Work the vehicle panel by panel so no section sits too long. After the dwell time, rinse off carefully with plenty of water. A pressure washer helps clear out the dissolved particles completely. With heavy iron fallout you may need a second pass. Once it's rinsed, a pH-neutral follow-up with a shampoo or active foam is a good idea to neutralise acid residue. Only after that step should you prep the vehicle for further work like polishing or sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor use in a professional wash line or tunnel: the heavy-duty cleaner can be plumbed into the dosing system. The concentration depends on the system and the strength you want — for that we recommend checking with the line manufacturer and SONAX for exact dosing figures. For manual use the concentration in the bottle is ready to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake out in the bay: the product gets used on a hot car that's just come off a drive. On surfaces above 40°C the acidic cleaner flashes off faster than you'd expect, the reaction goes uncontrollable and you can get discolouration. So always park the vehicle in the shade and wait until the surface has cooled to room temperature. That usually takes 15–20 minutes, but it heads off potential damage and gives you an even cleaning result across the whole vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when and where you need the heavy-duty cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\" is built for the following jobs: vehicles with heavy iron fallout from industrial areas, rail traffic or motorway driving; regular iron-fallout treatment as part of a professional detailing workflow; pre-cleaning before paint correction, vehicle sealing or coating; bodywork cleaning in paint and body shops; fleet care with lots of vehicles and a high soiling level. The product matters most as a workflow step before sealing: iron particles trapped under a sealant keep rusting and can damage the sealant from the inside over time. For anyone running professional detailing for top results: paint decon — pulling out iron particles, tar contamination and residue — is a must-do step before polishing, sealing or coating. Skip that step and you risk locking dirt particles under the sealant and dragging down the end result long term. So if you want to seal a vehicle professionally or lay down a ceramic coating, you absolutely should do an iron-removal pass first. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/a\u003e is a complementary product for intensive wheel cleaning in the same workflow — it pairs iron removal with a colour indicator so you can check the cleaning visually right on the wheel. For wheel sealing after cleaning, the PROFILINE CeramicCoating CC Rim line is the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe iron remover also suits vehicles parked near rail lines, steelworks or industrial plants and therefore exposed to heavier iron fallout. For fleet operators whose vehicles regularly run motorway routes with a lot of rail network alongside, a regular iron-removal routine is a sensible investment in keeping the paint healthy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother job often underrated in the trade: vehicle intake on used-car prep. Vehicles that have stood untreated for months or been parked in industrial areas often carry serious iron contamination that's hard to spot with the naked eye. The clay test — a simple run over the paint with a clay bar — shows the extent: if the clay is covered in little rough spots after a short while, iron particles are embedded deep in the paint. In those cases an acidic iron remover is the first move, before clay, polisher or coating come into play. A thorough acidic pre-treatment step also cuts clay use sharply, since fewer particles have to be pulled out mechanically. For detailers handling cars like this every day, that's a direct saving in time and material — a clear case for running the pro heavy-duty cleaner regularly in the detailing workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy-duty cleaner comparison — acidic vs. neutral iron removers\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe question \"acidic or neutral iron remover?\" is one of the most common in detailing — and as so often, the answer is: it depends on the job. To use it sensibly, it pays to know the differences exactly rather than backing one type blind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range includes several iron-remover products that work on different principles. The key difference is between acidic heavy-duty cleaners like this one and pH-neutral iron removers with a colour indicator (like the FelgenBeast or iron removers). pH-neutral iron removers work by chelation: they bind iron particles chemically and pull them out of the surface without a strongly acidic pH. That makes them gentler on paint and easier to handle — but on very high iron loads or large areas, also slower and more labour-intensive. Acidic heavy-duty cleaners like the Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\" act faster on heavy iron loads and suit commercial throughput, where lots of vehicles have to be handled in a short time. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003ePROFILINE MultiClean \"Acid\" heavy-duty cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is another option for acidic cleaning in the PROFILINE range, with a different focus on multi-surface cleaning. The choice between acidic and neutral iron removers comes down to the scenario: for involved single-vehicle detail work and on sensitive paint, a pH-neutral remover is the way to go. For professional volume use and heavily loaded vehicles, the acidic heavy-duty cleaner is the more efficient call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference shows in dwell time too: a pH-neutral indicator remover often needs 5–10 minutes' dwell to wait out the colour reaction and dissolve the iron particles fully. An acidic cleaner reacts faster — 2–4 minutes does the job in most cases. In a shop doing 20 vehicles a day, those minutes add up to serious time savings over a working week.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, cost plays a part: per litre, a concentrated acidic heavy-duty cleaner in big drums is far cheaper than single bottles of pH-neutral indicator products. For commercial use the cost gap is clearly felt with regular use. That makes the heavy-duty cleaner not only stronger for the job but economically the better choice in the pro shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the PROFILINE iron remover is the right call for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Iron Remover \"KraftReiniger Sauer\" is clearly aimed at the commercial user. The pack sizes of 10, 25 and 60 litres speak for themselves: this isn't a product for the odd bit of home care, but for shops that clean vehicles every day and need reliable, cost-efficient solutions. Car wash businesses, body shops, high-throughput detailers, transport companies and fleet operators are the core target group. What these shops have in common is that production costs and time efficiency hit the bottom line directly. A product that works fast, runs reliably and comes in cheap big drums isn't a luxury in this context — it's an operating supply. For these users the big-drum option makes economic sense: the price per litre drops sharply with bigger drums, and the effort of regular reordering goes down. A 60-litre drum covers many weeks at normal daily use in a busy shop. Store it cool and dry; stored properly the product keeps for a long time. For safe handling: the product is classed as a chemical working material — protective gloves, safety goggles and adequate ventilation at the workplace are a must. The safety data sheet is available from Detailing1 on request. If you're after a smaller pack for occasional use, take a look at the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e as an alternative, which also contains acidic cleaning components for wheel treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that use the iron remover regularly and want to build the ideal setup: the combination of an acid-resistant pressure pump sprayer, a safe catch container and a dedicated rinse-off area with plenty of water supply is the professional solution. Here, workplace safety isn't an optional extra but an integral part of correct use. With the right kit and a clear workflow, the acidic iron remover is a reliable, efficient tool in the professional car-care arsenal. If on top of that you need full documentation of the chemicals in use for operational safety, you can request the safety data sheet directly through Detailing1 — a hassle-free service made for commercial customers that keeps your REACH- and GHS-compliant use legally sound in the business and serves as proof in workplace inspections.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":57345009877327,"sku":"D1-SNX-5136050","price":69.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57345009910095,"sku":"D1-SNX-5137050","price":139.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"60 liters","offer_id":57345009942863,"sku":"D1-SNX-5138000","price":437.92,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-flugrostentferner-kraftreiniger-sauer_10liter.png?v=1774730657"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger","title":"PROFILINE GlassCleaner glass cleaner (concentrate)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eProfessional glass cleaning in bulk — SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner? The highly concentrated glass cleaner concentrate for professional use — streak-free cleaning of all vehicle glass, mirrors and glass surfaces, available in 10 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre containers for high-throughput operations.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn car washes, detailing operations and fleet workshops the glass cleaner you get through is huge: every vehicle has several square metres of glass that need cleaning inside and out during the job. You can't cover professional demand economically with 500 ml bottles. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is the concentrate built for exactly that: a highly concentrated glass cleaner formula in bulk containers — 10 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre — that diluted gives you many times the amount of ready-to-use glass cleaner. Streak-free cleaning on windscreens, side windows, rear windows, mirrors and glass of all kinds — professional, economical, and available in commercial volumes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighly concentrated glass cleaner concentrate for economical bulk demand — 10 L, 25 L, 200 L.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is formulated as a concentrate that diluted gives many times the original volume. For professional operations running many vehicles a day, the concentrate format works out far cheaper than buying ready-to-use glass cleaner in small bottles. The three container sizes fit different operation sizes: from the small detailing shop (10 litre) to the big fleet or car wash (200 litre).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStreak-free cleaning on every type of glass — inside and out.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner formula is dialled in for a streak-free finish on vehicle glass: rain and limescale streaks on outer windows, greasy film and fingerprints on inner glass, silicone residue from window rubbers on the glass surface — the GlassCleaner pulls all of it off completely and without residue. On the inside of the glass the cleaning power really counts: a greasy film on the inside of the windscreen badly affects visibility through light reflection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast acting and fast drying — no annoying second wipe needed.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner dries fast and leaves no residue that would need a second wipe. In a professional shop the work pace is decisive — a glass cleaner that dries streak-free on the first pass saves several minutes per vehicle compared with products you have to go back over.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Decant the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e from the bulk container straight into \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sprayboy-profi-spruhflasche\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Sprayboy spray bottles\u003c\/a\u003e at the right dilution — and write the dilution ratio on the bottle. Dilute it a touch stronger for outside cleaning, run it more concentrated for stubborn interior grime (greasy film, smoker's film). When you do the inside of windscreens, wipe the glass crosswise with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-glas-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch Glas\u003c\/a\u003e — first pass across, second pass top to bottom — that stops the greasy film smearing and gets you a streak-free finish. Never work in direct sunlight on hot glass — the cleaner flashes off too fast and leaves streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFormula and concentrate strength — what sets the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner apart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you start cleaning, it pays to look at the glass in raking light — ideally with a detailing light or under room lighting from a shallow angle. That makes all the streaks, the typical interior greasy film and limescale spots show up, the ones you easily miss without that check and that catch you out after cleaning. A quick look before and after tells you straight away whether the result really is streak-free — or whether a second pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe glass cleaner formula of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is based on a surfactant-alcohol blend tuned to the specific types of grime found on vehicle glass. Outer windows are mainly loaded with inorganic residue: limescale from rainwater, mineral dust deposits, fine dust and oil-mist aerosols from driving. Inner windows have a different grime profile: the typical interior greasy film comes from outgassing of plastics and foams inside the vehicle, made worse by smoke, body oils from hands and hair, plus cleaning-agent aerosols. The GlassCleaner pulls both types off effectively.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe alcohol content in the formula drives the fast evaporation after you lay it on — that stops streaking from the product sitting too long or drying unevenly. The surfactants lift the grease-based and mineral grime, emulsify it and let you wipe it all off with no residue. The surfactant-to-alcohol ratio is balanced so the GlassCleaner still flows well and works fast at low outside temperatures (winter use) without freezing on cold glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother plus of the concentrated formula: in concentrate form the product is more stable and stores better than ready-diluted glass cleaner. Ready-diluted glass cleaners can lose effectiveness over long storage in poor conditions (frost, direct sunlight). The concentrate stays fully effective over many months and through changing temperatures — a clear advantage for operations that keep larger stocks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a concentrate the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is designed to be diluted with water. The typical dilution ratio for normal glass grime, depending on concentration level and dirt load, runs from 1:5 to 1:20 — so one litre of concentrate gives you 5 to 20 litres of ready-to-use glass cleaner. With a 10 litre container that means a stock of 50 to 200 litres of ready-to-use product — and at about 50–100 ml per vehicle for inside and outside cleaning, a 10 litre container covers 500 to over 2000 vehicle jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDilution and use — the right concentration for different jobs\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe right dilution of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e depends on how dirty the glass is and where you're using it. For standard cleaning of outer windows with normal road grime (dust, rain spots, light grease marks) a higher dilution does the job — less concentrate, more water. For tougher grime like heavy greasy film on inner glass, the typical smoker's-car coating or silicone residue from seal rubbers, a lower dilution (more concentrate) works better — fewer wipes, faster result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional shop a two-stage dilution system makes sense: one spray bottle at standard dilution for normal cleaning, a second bottle with a stronger mix for stubborn interior grime. Both bottles get filled from the same bulk container, so you stay flexible without swapping product. With the SONAX PROFILINE Sprayboy as the standard spray bottle, the GlassCleaner system slots straight into the rest of your SONAX PROFILINE setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor car washes and automatic wash systems there are dedicated dosing units that draw the glass cleaner straight from the 200 litre container and feed it into the system at the right concentration. The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is compatible with this kind of dosing gear — the formula is tuned to deliver an optimal result even with machine application and rinse-off afterwards. For manual work the spray bottle method is the recommended way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlassCleaner vs. Glass Detailer — the right glass product for each job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE glass cleaning range, alongside the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e there's also the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e — two products that differ in concept and use. The GlassCleaner is the base cleaner concentrate for full glass cleaning: it pulls off all grime and leaves a clean glass surface with no coating. The Glass Detailer Concentrate is a specialist for the last step: it cleans and seals at the same time, gives the glass a hydrophobic treatment after cleaning and improves the way water runs off the screen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe order in the workflow is clear: first clean and degrease fully with the GlassCleaner, then optionally finish the glass with the Glass Detailer Concentrate. Laying the Glass Detailer onto glass that isn't fully degreased leads to uneven sealing and streaking. The two products are complementary, not interchangeable — the GlassCleaner as the cleaning base, the Glass Detailer as the finishing layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations that want to run just one glass product, the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is the right base: it covers 90% of glass cleaning needs — clean, streak-free windows with no coating. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e, on the other hand, is built for special needs like acrylic glass, Plexiglas and acrylic glazing — not as a replacement for the GlassCleaner, but as an add-on for jobs with sensitive plastic glazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMaterial compatibility and limits — what the GlassCleaner can handle and what it can't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is approved for all standard vehicle glass types: toughened safety glass (ESG), laminated safety glass (VSG), tinted glass, heated rear windows and normal side windows. The formula is alkali-tolerant and clear-coat compatible, and can also be used on surfaces next to body paint — the GlassCleaner won't damage the colour pigments or the clear coat if it accidentally gets onto paintwork. For targeted cleaning, though, keep it mainly on glass surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor plastic glazing made of acrylic glass (PMMA) or polycarbonate (PC) — as found in motorcycle fairings, classic-car screens, boat tops or special vehicle bodies — the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is the better pick. Harsh surfactants and alcohols in normal glass cleaners can attack plastic glazing over time, dull it or make it brittle. The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is optimised for real glass, not for plastic glazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn coated glass — e.g. after laying down the SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate or another glass sealant — the GlassCleaner is fine to use too: the glass sealant stays intact under regular cleaner use, as long as no aggressive solvents are in the product. On sealed glass the GlassCleaner dries even faster, since the hydrophobic coating speeds the cleaner running off — that improves the result day-to-day and often needs less product than on unsealed glass. For looking after films (PPF, tint film) don't spray the GlassCleaner straight onto the film — put it on the cloth first and then onto the surface, to avoid lifting the edges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner — container size and which one to pick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three container sizes: 10 litre for smaller operations and detailing studios, 25 litre for mid-sized detailing shops and car washes, 200 litre as a drum for large operations, fleets and car washes with very high daily throughput. Pick the container size by your throughput: at 10–20 vehicles a day the 10 litre container is the economical choice, at 50–100 vehicles a day the 25 litre. The 200 litre drum only makes sense with very high throughput and enough storage space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor mobile detailers carrying the GlassCleaner concentrate in the van, the 10 litre container is easy to handle and gives a big stock for many weeks of work. The container with its plastic drain tap can be mounted right in the van or on the detailing cart — topping up the spray bottles each day goes quick and clean, no lifting and tipping the container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor mobile detailers carrying the GlassCleaner concentrate in the van, it also pays to label the spray bottles with a waterproof marker or stickers — working on the road or at a customer's place, mixing up cleaners can quickly lead to results you didn't want. If you pre-portion several SONAX PROFILINE products into spray bottles at once, use a separate colour label or a separate Sprayboy type for each product to avoid mix-ups. An established labelling system saves time and mistakes in the daily grind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner concentrate is an economical base product that shouldn't be missing from any professional detailing operation. The concentrate logic — buy once, use many times over — makes it the cheapest glass cleaner approach for operations, and the professional, streak-free cleaning with no second wipe is the quality that counts day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":57345038254415,"sku":"D1-SNX-3356000","price":67.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57345038287183,"sku":"D1-SNX-3357050","price":155.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57345038319951,"sku":"D1-SNX-3359000","price":742.56,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner_10liter.png?v=1774730680"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger","title":"PROFILINE InnenReiniger Interior Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eInterior cleaning at volume — SONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger as a concentrate for pros\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets the interior cleaner from the SONAX PROFILINE range apart? This high-performance interior-cleaner concentrate for fabric, plastic and leather cleans car interiors effectively and economically — in 10-litre and 200-litre containers for high-throughput pro shops.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInterior cleaning eats time and material, and it's one of the core jobs in any professional detailing shop. If you're cleaning several interiors a day, you need a product that just works, doses economically and can be kept on hand in real quantity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e is built as a concentrate — for economical bulk use in the bay — and comes in 10 litres for mid-size shops and a 200-litre drum for big operations and car-wash sites with steady, ongoing demand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eConcentrate for flexible dosing and high yield.\u003c\/strong\u003e Being a concentrate, you dilute it to whatever strength the dirt calls for. Lightly soiled surfaces get a weaker mix; heavily soiled fabric or dried-on residue needs a stronger one. That flexibility brings your cost per job down and lets you run the same product across very different cleaning intensities.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks across fabric, plastic and leather.\u003c\/strong\u003e A car interior is a mix of materials — fabric seats, hard plastic trim, leather or faux leather, carpets and the headliner. The InnenReiniger handles the lot, so you're not swapping cleaners every time the surface changes. That simplifies the workflow a lot and cuts how many specialist products you have to stock.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEconomical bulk sizes for high throughput.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 10-litre canister and the 200-litre drum are built for nonstop pro use. Compared with small bottles the price per litre drops sharply, and over a day's worth of cars that lands straight in your margin. The 200-litre drum suits shops running fixed dosing systems.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For everyday routine interior cleaning, dilute the InnenReiniger 1:10 with water. For stubborn marks on fabric seats or heavily soiled floor mats you can take it up to 1:5 or run it neat. Lay the diluted product down with a microfibre cloth, a soft brush or an applicator sponge — don't let it dry on the surface; wipe it off right after the dwell time or take it off with a damp cloth. On leather, always follow the clean with a proper leather conditioner, since cleaners pull the natural oils out of the hide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eInnenReiniger as a concentrate — how it works, what's in it and dilution guidance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e is formulated as a surfactant-based concentrate — surfactants are molecules that bridge water and grease, wrap around dirt particles and lift them off the surface as you wipe. That base tech is well established in car-interior cleaning, because interior grime is a mix of body oils, dust, food residue and fabric particles — all things tensid-based cleaners pull apart reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate format has a few clear edges over ready-to-use sprays: transport cost and storage volume per unit are lower, since a big chunk of a ready-to-use product is water you can add cheaper on site. In a pro shop burning through many litres a day, that edge adds up to real savings over the year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe recommended dilution ratios for the InnenReiniger depend on the job. As a rough guide: for routine cleaning of lightly soiled surfaces (dashboard, door cards, cubbies) go 1:10 to 1:15. For medium soiling (seats, floor mats after normal use) 1:5 to 1:8 works. For heavy soiling — fabric seats with food or drink stains, ground-in dirt — you can set the concentrate to 1:2 to 1:3 or work it in neat with a brush.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate is also tuned to leave no residue on surfaces once you've wiped it off — nothing that spoils the finish. A common gripe with cheaper interior cleaners is streaking on smooth plastic: the product dries unevenly and leaves streaks that only show up in direct light. This one is built to work clean, which cuts down how much rework the treated panels need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne key note for leather: surfactants don't just lift dirt, they strip the conditioning oils out of the hide too. So regular cleaning of leather seats with the InnenReiniger should always go hand in hand with a follow-up using a leather-care product compatible with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e, to put the nutrients back and keep the material supple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the InnenReiniger properly — workflow for fabric, plastic and tough stains\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a full interior clean the workflow starts with pulling out all the loose stuff and vacuuming the cabin thoroughly. Dust and dry dirt you don't remove before going wet turns into a mud with the cleaner, which makes the job harder and loads up your cloth fast. Only once it's vacuumed does the InnenReiniger come into play.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn hard plastic surfaces — dashboard, centre console, door cards — apply the diluted solution with a damp microfibre cloth and work it in with circular motions. The cloth should be damp, not wet; too much moisture can creep into gaps and seams and cause staining. After a dwell time of 30–60 seconds, lift the dirt with a clean, dry microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor fabric seats and carpets, spray the diluted solution on and then work it in with a medium cleaning brush. Brush in the direction of the fibres to avoid roughing them up. On heavy stains you can go over the area several times; between passes let the surface dry off briefly so the moisture doesn't soak into the seat foam. A wet vac after the last pass pulls up the loosened grime and excess liquid and cuts the drying time right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine fabric cleaning — with a steam cleaner or an extraction machine — the diluted InnenReiniger can go into the machine's tank as the cleaning agent. Being compatible with extraction machines makes it an economical alternative to pricey specialist products for hot-steam interior cleaning. When you run it in an extraction machine, pick a slightly higher dilution than for manual application to avoid too much foaming inside the unit. If in doubt, check with the machine maker about the maximum concentrations recommended for the cleaning solution — some extraction machines aren't built for very high-foam products and could be damaged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenraumschwamm-duo-applikationsschwamm\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenraumSchwamm \"Duo\"\u003c\/a\u003e works as an applicator for cleaning smooth plastic and leather surfaces — its two different sides let you both clean and lay down care products after cleaning with the same tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the InnenReiniger earns its keep — areas of use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product is built for shops cleaning a lot of cars a day. Detailing shops, rental fleets, fleet managers, dealerships and reconditioners prepping used cars for resale are the typical users. For these shops it's not just cleaning power that counts but the economics too — the InnenReiniger as a concentrate in the 10- or 200-litre size pushes the material cost per car down to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor used-car reconditioning the InnenReiniger is especially relevant: a used interior shows the usual wear patterns after years of daily use — greasy build-up on the wheel and armrests, ground-in dirt in the seats, dust in the vents and lint on the carpet. A thorough pass with the InnenReiniger — from the headliner down to the floor mats — lifts the perceived value of the car a lot and is decisive for the dealer sale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFleet operators and rental firms running regular interior cleans across their fleet get the most out of the 200-litre drum. With a fixed dosing system — a wall pump or an automatic mixing rig — the InnenReiniger can be dosed straight at ratio into the spray bottle or container, with no manual decanting. That infrastructure pays for itself fast at high car throughput.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHeadliners are among the trickiest spots in interior cleaning. The fabric is delicate, can't get too wet (the soaked adhesive can warp it) and shouldn't be worked too hard with a brush. For the headliner, go for a higher dilution of the InnenReiniger (1:15 to 1:20) and apply it with a lightly damp microfibre cloth in gentle, linear strokes. No scrubbing — the dirt comes off through the surfactant action, not through mechanical abrasion. That gentle approach keeps the headliner in good shape over many cleans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that offer specialist cleaning on top of standard interior work — leather cleaning, mould removal, odour neutralisation — the InnenReiniger is the base cleaner, the first stage. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e handles the fine care of delicate surfaces after the base clean with the InnenReiniger, and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e rounds it off as a care product that conditions surfaces after cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe InnenReiniger compared — concentrate vs ready-to-use, InnenReiniger vs specialist cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the market there are two basic approaches to car-interior cleaning: ready-to-use sprays and concentrates. Ready-to-use products are good to go and need no dosing — they suit occasional use or staff with no experience of dilution ratios. Concentrates cost more per litre but, once diluted, come out much cheaper per job. In a high-volume pro shop the concentrate pays off against ready-to-use alternatives within just a few weeks of running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eComparing it with specialist cleaners — dedicated leather cleaner, fabric cleaner, plastic cleaner — shows the strength of the all-rounder InnenReiniger: one product for every surface simplifies your stockroom, cuts the number of products and streamlines the workflow. That said, if you're cleaning very delicate leather (Nappa, natural hide) or special fabrics (Alcantara, velour), look at the more specific products in the SONAX PROFILINE range, which are tuned for those materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn bang for the buck the concentrate is clearly the smartest format for a pro shop. Ready-to-use interior cleaners in 500 ml or 1-litre bottles cost several times more per job than the equivalent mixed from concentrate. Once you put the cost per cleaned car of the InnenReiniger concentrate up against a branded spray, the savings jump out at you straight away — and you see why professional shops stick to concentrates without fail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger — container sizes and what to pick for your shop\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOdour problems inside the car — a common customer job — aren't fully solved by the InnenReiniger alone, but they're cut down a lot. Smells come from mould, dried organic residue and particles bedded into the fabric layers. The InnenReiniger removes the organic base of the smell through its cleaning action; for stubborn odours, follow the base clean with a dedicated odour neutraliser. Pairing a thorough mechanical clean using the InnenReiniger with a follow-up odour neutralisation is the most effective system for cars with bad smell problems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe choice between the 10-litre canister and the 200-litre drum comes down to your shop's daily use. For a detailing shop doing a full interior on 3–5 cars a day, the 10-litre size lasts several weeks. Bigger operations with 10 or more cars a day — rentals, dealerships or car-wash sites — benefit from the 200-litre drum, which pushes the material cost per job down further and means fewer reorders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe InnenReiniger slots seamlessly into the PROFILINE system workflow: pre-clean with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eMultiClean \"Alkaline\"\u003c\/a\u003e for the exterior wash, InnenReiniger for the interior, SensitiveSurface Detailer or Interior Detailer for the care finish — a matched system from one brand that makes professional results reliably repeatable, and one whose completeness cuts your need for other makers' products in day-to-day reconditioning down to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right dilution ratio becomes second nature with a little experience. Shops new to the concentrate can start with a standard 1:10 ratio and tweak it to 1:7 or 1:5 if the result falls short. It's worth keeping a small log of the dilutions you use for different car and soiling types — after a few weeks the shop has a reliable standard that saves time and locks in consistent results. If you work with several staff, you can write this log up as an internal work instruction, so everyone runs the same dilutions and application parameters — a decisive step toward quality control in a growing shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops just stepping into the PROFILINE range, the InnenReiniger is a solid way in: it's versatile, easy to use and covers the most important part of the reconditioning business. Choosing the concentrate over ready-to-use products is a clear sign the shop works professionally and cost-efficiently — a mark of quality that shows in the price and in how you talk to customers. If you can tell your customer you work with a professional SONAX PROFILINE concentrate, mixed to order, you're signalling experience and method — and you stand out clearly from shops working off supermarket sprays from a can. That transparency builds trust and justifies professional prices for the interior-cleaning job.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":57345050149199,"sku":"D1-SNX-3216050","price":75.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57345050181967,"sku":"D1-SNX-3219000","price":716.38,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger_10l.png?v=1774731860"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo","title":"PROFILINE Reload Shampoo Sealant Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eTop up your SiO₂ sealant with every wash — SONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a sealant shampoo apart from a normal car shampoo? SONAX's sealant shampoo is built to actively recharge your existing SiO₂ and polymer sealants with every wash and stretch out how long they keep working.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvery wash chips away at a sealant or coating bit by bit — even pH-neutral shampoos slowly pull substance out of the sealant layer over time. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e flips that around: instead of weakening the sealant while you wash, this sealant shampoo actively tops up the protective layer with every pass. What you get is a sealant layer that doesn't just hold on but keeps renewing itself — well past its original lifespan.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSiO₂ reload technology — the sealant gets recharged with every wash.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo carries SiO₂ nano-particles (silicon dioxide) that lay down on the paint as you wash and work themselves into the existing sealant layer. This reload mechanism offsets the natural breakdown of the sealant from weather and washing — the sealant layer stays active and hydrophobic for the long haul.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater beading after every wash — proof you can see.\u003c\/strong\u003e The lotus effect of a SiO₂ sealant — water beading into droplets and carrying the dirt off with it — is the clearest sign a protective layer is doing its job. Once you've used the Reload Shampoo, the paint beads like it did on day one right after the rinse, even when the original sealant was already showing the first signs of wear. That makes the reload effect measurable after every wash and easy to show customers in a detailing business.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e10-litre pro container for non-stop commercial use.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Reload Shampoo comes in a 10-litre canister — the most economical format for car washes, detailing businesses and dealerships that wash lots of cars a day. The price per litre in the bulk container works out far cheaper than in single bottles, and the volume keeps you running without constant reorders.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reload principle is especially interesting for cars with SiO₂ coatings that were done at a pro business. These coatings cost real money to apply and are meant to last as long as possible. With a sealant shampoo that regenerates the coating layer on every wash, the investment in that original coating is properly protected — customers don't have to shell out for a full re-coat nearly as soon. That's a clear service angle for detailing businesses offering their customers long-term coating care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best reload effect, use the Reload Shampoo in a contact wash with a mitt and the bucket method: let the shampoo dwell for a moment (30–60 seconds) before you rinse — that gives the SiO₂ particles time to settle onto the paint. On cars with fresh ceramic coatings (the first 7–30 days after application) wait out the cure time before you reach for the Reload Shampoo. As a dosing guide, go for 30–50 ml per 10-litre bucket depending on how dirty the car is. The 10-litre canister pairs nicely with a dosing pump to keep your daily measure consistent across the business and save product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe reload technology behind the PROFILINE sealant shampoo — the SiO₂ mechanism and how it works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e works on the principle of reactive sealant top-up: the SiO₂ nano-particles in the shampoo formula are water-soluble and activate in the film of wash water. When they meet the existing sealant layer they embed into its structure and fill in the spots that UV, temperature swings or earlier washes have worn down. After the rinse, a renewed SiO₂ layer stays behind on the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSilicon dioxide (SiO₂) is the key component in modern paint sealants because it forms an extremely hard, clear and hydrophobic layer. Unlike carnauba wax, which is soft and rubs off with friction, SiO₂ stands up far better to mechanical stress and weather. The Reload Shampoo works with the same SiO₂ particles used in professional coating products — at a lower concentration for wash use, but with a measurable top-up factor after every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing worth getting straight is the difference between the Reload Shampoo and a full re-coat: the Reload Shampoo stretches the working life of an existing coating a lot, but it doesn't replace a full re-application. It's the maintenance step in the care cycle — sitting between the professional first coat and a fresh application that might eventually be needed after heavy use or a few years. That clear positioning makes the Reload Shampoo a must-have part of any professional paint-care setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reload principle has a money side too: professional SiO₂ coatings run anywhere from several hundred to over a thousand euros depending on the product and the size of the business, application included. A coating that would normally last 12 to 24 months can be stretched to 24 to 48 months with the Reload Shampoo — as long as the care is done consistently. The savings from longer coating cycles outweigh the small extra cost of the Reload Shampoo over a standard shampoo by a mile. That's the main argument for businesses and car owners who invest in professional coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutrality of the Reload Shampoo is another critical property: SiO₂ coatings react badly to acidic or alkaline cleaners. The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is dialled in to a pH that won't attack the existing sealant layer while getting the reload particles to activate at their best. Shampoos that are too alkaline would actively dissolve the sealant on every wash — exactly the opposite of what you want.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Reload Shampoo — dosing in a pro business and by hand\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor commercial use with the 10-litre canister it pays to fit a dosing pump: these pumps sit on standard canisters and deliver a set amount per stroke — usually 30–50 ml. That standardises the dose and stops over- or under-dosing when several staff or shifts are involved. A dosing pump pays for itself fast in daily use through the product you save with a tighter measure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor hand washing in a detailing business the same principles apply as at home, just on a bigger scale: two-bucket method, dwell time, a full rinse. The Reload Shampoo foams up enough for good lubrication while you wash, which keeps the mitt from dragging micro-scratches into the paint through lack of slip. Its cleaning power is plenty for normal road grime — for heavily soiled cars, start with a pre-wash from a pressure washer to knock off the worst before the sealant shampoo goes on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses running wash bays or pressure washers, the Reload Shampoo can also go through a foam lance once you adjust the concentration. Here dwell time really matters: with a foam pre-clean the foam needs enough time to wet the surface and activate the SiO₂ particles before it's rinsed off. Give it at least a minute. After you rinse the foam the normal contact wash follows — foam on its own doesn't replace the mechanical cleaning step for stubborn grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the rinse, dry the car quickly to make the water beading show right away and to stop water spots from standing water. In a pro business a blaster (a compressed-air blower) is the most efficient way to start drying — leftover water from door shuts, mirrors and roof edges comes off without any cloth contact. Then you finish drying with microfibre towels for a streak-free surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo fits — detailing businesses, dealerships and studios\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Reload Shampoo is aimed first at professional users: car detailing businesses, dealerships with a car-care service and detailing studios. The 10-litre format only pays off with regular, commercial use — for the occasional private user a smaller format makes more sense.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn detailing businesses that offer their customers SiO₂ coatings, the Reload Shampoo is the logical add-on to the service line-up: after a professional coating application you can recommend the customer use the Reload Shampoo for ongoing upkeep — or the business runs a \"Coating Maintenance Wash\" as a service, with the Reload Shampoo as the star product. That turns a one-off coating application into recurring service work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor dealerships that prep new and pre-owned cars and add a paint seal on delivery, the Reload Shampoo is the follow-up product for the maintenance recommendation. Customers who got a paint sealant when they bought the car can stretch that sealant's working life themselves with the Reload Shampoo — a concrete extra you can pitch as an add-on service during the sale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PROFILINE Reload Shampoo compared — sealant shampoos and everyday shampoos\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to a normal car shampoo with no sealant function, the Reload Shampoo is the stronger product for cars with active SiO₂ coatings. A pure cleaning shampoo like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is ideal for freshly coated cars in the first weeks after application, while the coating is still curing and you don't want any foreign product touching the layer. The Reload Shampoo is the right pick for coatings that have already cured and need the ongoing reload cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNext to the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-shampoo-2-in-1-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/a\u003e, which packs in classic wax components, the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is a different beast: the 2-in-1 shampoo is the handy everyday product for any car without an active SiO₂ coating. The Reload Shampoo is the specialist product for SiO₂-coated cars — it works hand in hand with the coating chemistry that's already there and reinforces it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is the consumer version in the XTREME range with a similar ceramic protection principle. The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is its professional counterpart in the PROFILINE segment — higher concentration, bigger container, built for non-stop commercial use. For the home user with a single SiO₂-coated car, the Ceramic Active-Shampoo in a handier format is the more practical choice. For businesses with lots of coated cars, the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is the more economical product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/a\u003e takes a different sealing approach: it lays down a fresh polymer sealant whether or not there's an existing coating. That's the route for cars with no active coating layer. The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo, by contrast, tops up and reinforces the existing SiO₂ layer. Both approaches have their place — the call depends on the state and history of the car's paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo — for businesses and keen private drivers\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis sealant shampoo is for professional users who care for lots of cars with SiO₂ sealants day in, day out, and for private detailing enthusiasts who have an active SiO₂ coating on their car and want to keep that coating working with every wash. The 10-litre pro container is the most economical format for regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor keen private drivers who've had their car sealed with a quality SiO₂ coating and want to maintain it themselves, the 10-litre container is over the top to start with — a smaller format would be handier. That said, the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is also available in small quantities from specialist retailers. If you want to try the product first, start with a small amount and step up to the more economical bulk container once you're convinced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGet into the PROFILINE sealant shampoo system and you gain a product that pulls double duty: cleaning and active sealant care in one. The extra effort over a standard shampoo is zero — the payoff is measurable: the beading lasts longer, dirt clings to the paint less, and the intervals before a re-coat can be stretched out considerably. That makes the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo not just a care product but an investment-protection move for any professionally applied SiO₂ sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":57345086193999,"sku":"D1-SNX-6156000","price":82.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo_10l.png?v=1774731894"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-regenstreifenentferner-wasserfleckenentferner","title":"PROFILINE Rain Stain Remover Water Stain Remover","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePermanently remove baked-on rain streaks and water spots with SONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes SONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover special? This abrasive intensive cleaner removes baked-on calcium and mineral deposits from rain streaks, water spot damage, and sprinkler spots on paint, glass, and plastic — without aggressive acids.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVehicles that are regularly parked outdoors know the problem: rain streaks form over weeks and months until they become visible as dull, chalk-like deposits on the paint surface — stubborn because calcium and minerals chemically burn into the surface. Conventional car shampoos do not remove these deposits; acidic cleaners attack the paint. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e combines a mild abrasive suspension with a chemical dissolving effect — it mechanically and chemically dissolves and grinds baked-on calcium and mineral residues without damaging the paint surface or using aggressive acids.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCombines mechanical and chemical cleaning action.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Rain Streak Remover contains fine abrasive particles in an aqueous formulation. These abrasive particles work in conjunction with the chemical formulation: the chemistry loosens the bond between the calcium deposit and the paint surface, and the abrasive particles absorb the dissolved coating. This dual principle enables the removal of deposits that could not be effectively treated with a pure cleaner or a pure polish alone.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCan be used on paint, glass, and plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rain streaks occur on all exposed vehicle surfaces — on the roof, hood, side windows, plastic attachments, and mirrors. The Rain Streak Remover is suitable for all these surfaces and does not require switching cleaning agents between different materials.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3-liter container for professional use.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a detailing business that regularly treats vehicles with rain streak damage, the 3-liter container is the economical solution. The large container reduces the price per application and ensures that there is enough material for several vehicles without frequent reorders.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Apply the Rain Streak Remover to the area to be treated and work it in with a damp microfiber cloth using circular motions. The abrasive effect is best achieved with moderate pressure and several short passes — not one long, forceful wipe. On glass, a pass with the Glass Detailer may be useful after treatment to ensure no abrasive residues remain. A final treatment with a sealant protects the cleaned surface from quick re-soiling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRain streaks on paint — how calcium and minerals damage the surface and how Rain Streak Remover works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRain streaks are caused by a physico-chemical process: rainwater picks up calcium, minerals, and dust residues from the roof as it runs off and leaves them as a concentrated deposit on the bodywork when it evaporates. In vehicles in hard water areas or near sprinkler systems or car washes using tap water, calcium spots are particularly pronounced. The deposits not only settle on the paint surface but also bind chemically into the clear coat over time — a process accelerated by UV radiation and fluctuating temperatures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eRain Streak Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e contains a combination of fine, non-scratching abrasive particles and a chemical formulation that weakens the bond between the calcium deposit and the surface. The abrasive particles are significantly finer than those in a typical cutting polish — their purpose is not paint correction, but the mechanical loosening and absorption of mineral residues that have been chemically softened. The result is a surface cleaning that goes deeper than a cleaner alone but does not constitute paint correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to purely acidic water spot removers — which chemically dissolve calcium through pH reaction — the Rain Streak Remover has the advantage that it can be used more safely on more sensitive surfaces such as clear coat. Strong acids dissolve calcium very effectively, but they also attack the paint surface if the exposure time is exceeded or the dilution is too high. The Rain Streak Remover works with a mild abrasive formulation that is safer for materials and carries less risk of unintended paint damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter treatment with the Rain Streak Remover, the paint surface is clean, but in all likelihood not yet sealed. The abrasive action not only removes calcium deposits but also any remaining wax or sealant residues in the treated area. A re-seal with a suitable product from the SONAX PROFILINE range is therefore recommended after every Rain Streak Remover treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for professional operation is the distinction between fresh and baked-on deposits. Fresh calcium spots — formed in the last few days by rain or sprinklers — can often be completely removed after a single pass. Older deposits that have built up over months may require two to three passes, with the product being reapplied fresh between passes. Estimating the maturity of the deposit before the first pass allows for realistic calculation of working time and a precise quote for the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrect application of Rain Streak Remover — step-by-step workflow on various surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore use, the surface should be pre-cleaned — loose dirt particles on the surface would act as a scratch risk when working in the Rain Streak Remover. A basic wash with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean \"Alkaline\"\u003c\/a\u003e as a pre-cleaner removes grease and surface dirt before the Rain Streak Remover is used. The working surface should be treated in the shade and at a moderate temperature — direct sunlight dries the product too quickly and makes even application difficult.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn paint, the Rain Streak Remover is worked in either by hand (microfiber cloth, damp application sponge) or by machine at a low speed. Machine application at low to medium speed with a soft pad is more efficient than manual work, especially on large areas such as the hood and roof, and provides more even processing. The worked-in suspension is allowed to act briefly (30–60 seconds) before being wiped off with a clean microfiber cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass, the working method is similar to paint: apply product, work in, wipe off. On glass, however, the abrasive particles in the Rain Streak Remover are less abrasive than on paint — for very deeply burned-in calcium spots on glass, an additional pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-filzpad-125-polierpad\"\u003eFeltPad 125\u003c\/a\u003e and a glass polish may be useful, as the physical abrasion of the FeltPad on glass dissolves calcium compounds more effectively than a cleaning cloth alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine application on paint, the choice of pad is crucial. A soft foam pad or a finishing pad is the right choice — harder or very abrasive pads would overemphasize the already existing abrasive effect of the Rain Streak Remover and unnecessarily stress the paint surface. The product itself provides the necessary abrasion; the pad serves as an even applicator and distributor. When working on large areas, the pad should be cleaned regularly, as absorbed calcium particles could otherwise act as a scratch risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the treatment of plastic add-on parts — bumpers, mirror housings, sill trims — lower pressure requirements apply than on paint. Plastic is softer and more sensitive to abrasive action. Light pressure and short circular movements are sufficient to remove calcium deposits from plastic surfaces. For dark plastic parts, a specific plastic care product should be applied after treatment with Rain Streak Remover to prevent fading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving water spots and rain streaks — when the Rain Streak Remover shows its full strength\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Rain Streak Remover is the right tool when calcium and mineral deposits have already penetrated deep into the paint surface and can no longer be removed with normal car shampoos or cleaners. Vehicles with several years of exposure without sealing — company vehicles in open parking lots, vehicles within sprinkler range, vehicles regularly exposed to rainwater in hard water areas — are classic candidates for the Rain Streak Remover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Rain Streak Remover is particularly effective on fresh sprinkler spots. If a vehicle has been hit by a sprinkler system with tap water and the white calcium spots are still fresh, the Rain Streak Remover removes them with less effort than deeply baked-on old spots. Used preventively after any contamination with tap water, the Rain Streak Remover prevents the penetration depth that builds up after weeks of standing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles with ceramic coatings, the question arises whether the Rain Streak Remover is compatible with the coating. In principle, for coated vehicles, the least abrasion that still achieves sufficient effect should be used — the abrasive particles of the Rain Streak Remover can thin or selectively remove coating layers. For coated vehicles with light water spots, a gentler approach with a pH-neutral cleaner is recommended first; the Rain Streak Remover should only be used if this method is not sufficient.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother application scenario that is often underestimated in practice is vehicles after construction site exposure. Construction water, concrete splashes, and mortar residues contain high concentrations of calcium and minerals and adhere to the bodywork upon contact. As long as the residues have not yet hardened, the Rain Streak Remover also effectively treats these contaminations — light pressure and several short passes loosen the deposits before they permanently work their way into the paint. However, for already hardened concrete splashes, mechanical pre-treatment with a clay bar or clay pad is necessary to remove the rough layer first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits of the Rain Streak Remover lie with deeply etched caustic lime that has already chemically bonded with the clear coat due to pH reaction or UV exposure. In these cases — often recognizable by a rough, dull-white surface that remains visible even after cleaning — a complete paint correction with abrasive polish and eccentric polisher is necessary before the Rain Streak Remover can take effect. The Rain Streak Remover is designed for superficial and medium calcium removal, not for deeply damaged paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRain Streak Remover comparison — acid cleaners, polish, and non-abrasive cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor water spot removal, there are basically three approaches on the market: acidic cleaners (pH 1–4), abrasive polishes, and abrasive intensive cleaners like the Rain Streak Remover. Each approach has its place, but no method is optimal for all situations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcidic cleaners dissolve calcium very quickly through pH reaction — calcium carbonate reacts with acid and is converted into water-soluble calcium salts. The disadvantage: on paint, too high an acid concentration or too long an exposure time can permanently damage the clear coat surface. On glass, acidic cleaners can be used more safely; on paint, they require precise dilution and short exposure times. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean \"Acid\"\u003c\/a\u003e is a professional acidic cleaner for outdoor use — but on paint only in diluted form and with caution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAbrasive polishes with a high abrasive content remove calcium spots mechanically, but aggressive application can reduce paint thickness. They are suitable for complete paint correction after calcium damage, not for routine calcium removal. The Rain Streak Remover positions itself in between: more effective than a pure cleaner, less abrasive than a cutting polish, no pH risks like with acidic cleaners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNon-abrasive calcium cleaners based on complexing agents — such as EDTA or citric acid — dissolve calcium chemically without abrasive action. They are gentler on coatings than the Rain Streak Remover, but less effective on deeply baked-on deposits. For light and fresh calcium spots, complexing agent-based cleaners are the gentlest option; for older and deeper baked-on deposits, the Rain Streak Remover is the more effective choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe decision of which approach is correct in a specific case therefore depends on three factors: the age of the deposits, surface sensitivity (coated or uncoated), and the desired time expenditure. The Rain Streak Remover offers the best price-performance ratio in the medium damage range — not too fresh for a simple shampoo treatment, but not yet so deeply etched that a complete polish would be unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Rain Streak Remover — for which businesses and applications it pays off\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover in a 3-liter container pays off for every detailing business that regularly treats vehicles with rain streak and calcium spot problems. In areas with hard water or near commercial businesses with sprinkler systems, the proportion of such vehicles is high. With the Rain Streak Remover, this task can be solved efficiently, safely, and without paint risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a complete calcium removal workflow, the following are recommended as complements: The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e for glass surfaces after the Rain Streak Remover, and a suitable sealant from the PROFILINE range for protection afterward. The three-step system of basic cleaning, Rain Streak Remover, and sealing is the professional approach for vehicles with heavy calcium loads — and provides better long-term results than individual treatments without subsequent protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe professional detailer who incorporates the Rain Streak Remover into their service portfolio can thus define a clear service category: \"Calcium Spot and Rain Streak Removal\" as a separate service, distinct from regular vehicle detailing. This transparency helps with quoting — the customer understands why this step is charged extra, and the business can correctly calculate the effort. In practice, rain streak removal including pre-cleaning and re-sealing on a mid-range car can be completed within two to three hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who regularly educate their customers about the causes of rain streaks, the Rain Streak Remover is also a conversation starter for sealing services: a sealed vehicle forms significantly fewer rain streaks because the calcium particles cannot penetrate the paint surface. Anyone using the Rain Streak Remover automatically has the consultation hook for a preventive protective treatment — with the result that customers have to come back less often and are still more satisfied in the long term.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"3 liters","offer_id":57345086849359,"sku":"D1-SNX-2184410","price":41.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-regenstreifenentferner_3liter.png?v=1774731888"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-wintertrockenwasche-waterless-wash","title":"PROFILINE Winter Dry Wash \"Waterless Wash\" Dry Wash (Winter)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWaterless Car Cleaning in Winter Without Frost and Restrictions — PROFILINE WinterDryWash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat distinguishes WinterDryWash from normal dry washing? WinterDryWash is specially formulated for use at low temperatures — it does not freeze, remains fluid in frost, and cleans reliably where conventional waterless wash products reach their limits.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn winter, vehicle cleaning presents commercial businesses with particular challenges: freezing temperatures, limited water availability, or restricted water supply in outdoor areas make classic car washing costly or impossible. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE WinterDryWash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e fills this gap — a professional dry wash formulation specially developed for winter operation at sub-zero temperatures and available in 25-liter containers for fleet operators, car dealerships, and mobile detailers. Waterless car cleaning thus works reliably even in frost and without complex winter logistics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWinter-proof formulation for waterless car cleaning in frost.\u003c\/strong\u003e WinterDryWash is designed for use at low temperatures and does not freeze in the bottle or on the car paint. While normal dry wash products become viscous at sub-zero temperatures and can no longer be evenly distributed, the winter variant remains fluid and workable even in the cold — a decisive advantage for year-round use without product changes throughout the year.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e25-liter container for professional fleet and workshop use.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 25-liter bottle is designed for commercial volume consumption. Fleet operators with regular cleaning needs, car rental companies, and used car dealers who need to prepare vehicles even in the cold season benefit from a volume container that does not require frequent reordering and reduces product costs per vehicle cleaning.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLubricating formula for scratch-free results on dry surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dry washing only works without scratches if the formula contains sufficient lubricants to lift dirt particles from the paint and embed them in the cloth — without abrasive contact between dirt particles and clear coat. WinterDryWash contains a specially formulated lubricating formula that provides an acceptable cleaning result even with heavier winter dirt from road salt residue, de-icing agent residue, and fine dust.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e At very low temperatures below minus 5 degrees, preheating the applicator cloths is recommended: use microfiber cloths from a warm interior, because cold, stiff cloths absorb less dirt and increase the risk of scratching. Apply WinterDryWash directly to the microfiber cloth — never spray directly onto the bodywork if ice particles might be present on the surface. First wipe off road salt residues with a slightly moistened cloth before applying the dry wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWinter formulation explained — what distinguishes WinterDryWash from the standard variant\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDry wash products are based on an aqueous emulsion with surfactants, lubricants, and sometimes light wax components. This emulsion is stable and fluid at normal ambient temperatures but can reach physical limits in frost: the aqueous phase freezes, emulsions separate, and the product loses its homogeneous consistency and thus its cleaning effectiveness. Once frozen and thawed, a dry wash product often behaves differently than in its original state — the emulsion can be destabilized, which negatively affects the cleaning result and the risk of scratching.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWinterDryWash solves this problem with a formulation specifically designed for winter operation: the emulsion contains antifreeze agents that lower the freezing point of the liquid phase, thus preventing the product from freezing at typical winter temperatures. The viscosity remains within a practical range even at low outdoor temperatures, allowing for even spraying and distribution on the microfiber cloth. The result is a dry wash that can be used year-round with consistent and reliable processing behavior — no product change in autumn, no storage problems, and no surprises with the first winter application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother formulation-related difference concerns the lubricating effect at low temperatures: the lubricants in normal dry wash products can lose their effectiveness in the cold because more viscous formulations do not distribute as evenly on the microfiber cloth. The winter-specific formulation takes this effect into account and maintains the lubricating effect even in sub-zero temperatures — a direct safety advantage for the paint surface, because sufficient lubrication minimizes the risk of scratching by dirt particles, regardless of whether the outside temperature is plus ten or minus ten degrees.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor large-scale operations that must continue in winter and do not have a heated car wash, the winter variant is not a luxury but an operational prerequisite. Vehicles that remain uncleaned after outdoor use in road salt and moisture will suffer long-term corrosion damage and paint damage from embedded salt. WinterDryWash allows for quick, thorough cleaning outdoors even at freezing temperatures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother aspect is the evaporation time: at cold temperatures, water evaporates significantly slower than in summer — a vehicle left outdoors after a wet wash hardly dries and can immediately develop ice films on the bodywork in frost. Dry washing completely bypasses this problem: since no water is used, there is no evaporation time, no freezing water film, and no new ice deposits after cleaning. The vehicle is ready for use and presentable immediately after dry washing, without having to wait for drying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication in winter operation — workflow for fleets and detailing businesses in the cold\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application workflow of WinterDryWash differs in some respects from summer operation. The most important adjustment concerns the preliminary work: for winter vehicles, the dirt film is usually thicker and chemically more aggressive than for summer vehicles. Road salt, de-icing agents, tire abrasion, and fine dust together form a stubborn film that cannot be removed without scratches without a sufficient lubricating base. Therefore, a rough removal of dirt with a slightly damp cloth before the actual dry wash treatment is recommended in the winter season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWinterDryWash is applied generously to a soft microfiber cloth and then wiped panel by panel over the paint using the familiar dry wash technique: light pressure, consistent direction of movement, regular turning of the cloth to a clean side. The lubricating effect of the product lifts dirt and salt particles from the paint and binds them into the microfiber cloth without them rubbing on the paint surface. After cleaning, the product leaves a light protective film that temporarily protects against new salt adhesion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor optimal results, a clear prioritization is recommended for winter vehicles: first the horizontal surfaces — hood, roof, and trunk lid — then the vertical surfaces such as doors, fenders, and bumpers. More road salt film accumulates on horizontal surfaces during driving, which must be wiped off more densely and evenly. Vertical surfaces usually have less dried-on salt film and can be processed more quickly. A consistent working pattern from top to bottom prevents dirt from falling from upper surfaces onto already cleaned lower areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn commercial fleet operations, a division of labor is recommended: one person cleans the vehicle panel by panel, and a second person follows directly with clean drying cloths for streak-free polishing. With this tandem method, the speed per vehicle increases significantly, and quality control is integrated into the workflow. For the 25-liter canister, a professional filling system with a spout or a pump is recommended to comfortably transfer the product into smaller work bottles without constantly having to lift the large container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCloth quality is particularly important in winter operation and directly decisive for the quality result. Synthetic microfibers with high pile depth and good absorbency are the first choice for dry washing in cold weather and salt contamination — they reliably absorb salt crystals, fine dust particles, and dirt particles and keep them trapped inside the cloth without bringing them back onto the paint. Regular turning to a fresh cloth side is even more important for winter contamination, which often has a higher salt concentration, than in summer. Depending on the degree of contamination and salt density, a separate cloth or at least a consistent change to a fresh, clean cloth area is recommended per vehicle door or larger panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application and limits — when WinterDryWash is the right solution\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE WinterDryWash is the right choice when waterless cleaning is necessary in the cold and there is no alternative to classic car washing. The classic application scenario is fleet use by car dealerships, leasing companies, and rental car companies that need to clean vehicles year-round and keep them ready for handover — even when outdoor temperatures are below freezing and the car wash is out of operation or has limited availability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA frequently underestimated application situation is quick interim cleaning at car shows, exhibitions, and presentations in winter. Exhibition vehicles that are driven in bad winter weather or shown outdoors require quick detailing without water and drying time. With WinterDryWash, a vehicle can be brought into a presentable condition in a few minutes — a clear advantage over costly transport to a car wash or the risky use of water at freezing temperatures on the exhibition floor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDry washing is also a quick and uncomplicated solution for vehicle transfers in winter: a transferred vehicle that arrives salt-covered at the recipient after a long journey in winter conditions can be quickly cleaned with the winter variant before handover takes place. The result is not a deep cleaning, but a presentable, salt-free surface that is sufficient for a professional vehicle handover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits of dry washing — even in the winter variant — lie with very heavy, widespread contamination, such as after driving on unpaved roads or after very difficult weather conditions with deeply dried dirt. Heavily soiled vehicles first require a classic wash with water before dry washing can be used effectively. Dry washing is not a substitute for classic basic cleaning but an efficient tool for maintenance cleaning and quick freshening up between regular washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEspecially in commercial winter operation, dry washing has a clear logistical advantage over wet washing: it requires no water connection, no wastewater disposal, and no drying time. A vehicle can be cleaned outdoors or indoors within a few minutes, without complex infrastructure. This makes dry washing the ideal method for use in parking lots, underground garages, during vehicle handovers on outdoor areas, or wherever a water connection is not available or water use is not possible due to temperature reasons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWinterDryWash in comparison — distinction from summer dry wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-trockenwasche-waterless-wash\"\u003eDryWash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/a\u003e and the WinterDryWash do not differ in application technique but exclusively in the temperature-specific formulation. The summer version provides optimal cleaning performance with excellent lubricating effect at normal to warm temperatures; the winter variant is formulated for operation below 5 degrees Celsius and down to the sub-zero range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-trockenwasche-waterless-wash-detailer\"\u003eXTREME DryWash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/a\u003e from the XTREME range is designed as a single product in smaller filling for private end-users and occasional detailing applications. The PROFILINE WinterDryWash in the 25-liter container, on the other hand, is exclusively designed for commercial operations with high volume consumption. The price difference between the single product and the professional canister reflects exactly this volume discount.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who runs a mixed operation — i.e., performs dry cleaning both in summer and winter — can either use the winter variant year-round (which also works perfectly in summer but is slightly more expensive) or switch seasonally. For businesses that prefer continuity in their workflow and want to eliminate seasonal product changes as a source of error, year-round use of WinterDryWash is the more pragmatic solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother difference from the summer variants lies in the application temperature of the product itself: the winter variant can also be used directly from a cool storage environment without having to bring the product to room temperature first. This saves time in winter operation when products are stored in outdoor warehouses or unheated storage halls and are to be used directly on the vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — for whom the PROFILINE WinterDryWash is the right investment\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE WinterDryWash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at commercial businesses that perform waterless car cleaning in winter and depend on the same reliability as in summer operation. Car dealerships and used car dealers with winter outdoor storage, car rental companies, vehicle logistics providers, and fleet managers are the core target group. The 25-liter container is the right entry for anyone who dry washes more than ten vehicles monthly — below that, buying individual containers usually doesn't pay off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eConsumption per vehicle varies between 50 and 150 ml depending on the degree of dirt, outdoor temperature, and vehicle size — with a 25-liter canister, the volume is sufficient for 170 to 500 vehicle cleanings. For fleets with 50 or more vehicles per month, a canister reorder every one to three months is realistic. This simple calculation basis helps with concrete budget planning and estimating annual product costs compared to alternative cleaning methods such as operating a car wash with winter chemicals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses that use dry washing regularly and frequently and require high-quality professional microfiber cloths in sufficient quantities, large professional cloths from the SONAX PROFILINE range are recommended. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertrockentuch-plus-mikrofasertuch\"\u003ePROFILINE Microfiber Drying Cloth \"PLUS\"\u003c\/a\u003e is specially developed for vehicle detailing and dry washing and provides the right pile absorbency for safe, scratch-free results even with winter salt contamination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 carries the PROFILINE WinterDryWash in its range and is happy to advise on consumption quantities and the optimal product use for the respective winter operation. If you are unsure whether the winter variant or the standard formulation is more suitable for your business, it is best to describe the typical temperature range and the frequency of winter application — this will lead to a clear recommendation.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57345086980431,"sku":"D1-SNX-6367050","price":112.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-wintertrockenwasche_25l.png?v=1774731916"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-trockenwasche-waterless-wash","title":"SONAX PROFILINE Waterless Wash \"Waterless-Wash\" rinse-free wash","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCleaning cars without water in a pro setting — SONAX PROFILINE Waterless Wash \"Waterless-Wash\" put to work\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a waterless wash and when does it make sense? A waterless wash cleans cars without water using special lubricating and emulsifying agents that wrap around the dirt and lift it off safely — perfect for spots with no water hookup, or for a quick clean between proper washes.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every car clean needs a full wash bay with a water supply. Cars sitting in underground car parks, at trade shows or out on the road still need regular cleaning — and that's without any way to reach for a hose or a pressure washer. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterless Wash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro answer to exactly that: a product in 5- and 25-litre containers that lifts and pulls dirt off paint efficiently and with minimal marring, no water needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRinse-free cleaning for cars with no water hookup.\u003c\/strong\u003e The product lets you do full car cleans at locations with no water supply or drainage. Underground car parks, office car parks, trade shows, handovers and fleets spread across decentralised sites all benefit from the flexibility of a waterless wash that only needs microfibre cloths and the product itself.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDirt-encapsulating formula for a low-marring finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula carries lubricants and glides that wrap around dirt particles and lift them off the paint before wiping pressure drives them into the clear coat. The result is a gentle clean that gives a scratch-free finish on light to medium soiling — as long as you stick to the right application technique.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePro containers in 5 and 25 litres for cost-effective fleet care.\u003c\/strong\u003e Both container sizes are built for professional use. The 25-litre container suits fleet operators and detailing businesses that need to clean lots of cars quickly every day. The dose per car is small on light soiling, which keeps your service pricing easy to work out.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The Waterless Wash works best on light to medium dirt — dust, fresh bird mess and light road film. On baked-on dirt, mud or coarse grit, knock the worst of it off dry first, or soak the area with water, before you lay the Waterless Wash down. Use a fresh microfibre per panel for the wipe-off and a second, dry cloth for the buff.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTechnology and how it works — how the Waterless-Wash formula lifts dirt without water\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA classic wash works by mechanically shifting dirt with water as the carrier: water dissolves, dilutes and carries the dirt particles off the surface. A waterless wash works without that carrier and has to do the same job with a different chemistry. The formula behind the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-trockenwasche-waterless-wash\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterless Wash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/a\u003e uses highly concentrated surfactants and glides that wrap around the dirt, weaken its grip on the paint and let the microfibre pick it up as you wipe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key difference from simple spray sealants or quick detailers is how slick the formula is. A high lubricant content means the microfibre doesn't rub the dirt into the paint as you wipe — it floats it off and lifts it away. That works really well on light dust and fresh dirt; on coarse, abrasive grit, though, there's always a risk of microscopic scratches, because even the best formula can't fully wrap every abrasive particle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentration of the formula feeds straight into the result. The Waterless Wash is built as a ready-to-use product and should never be diluted with water — diluting it cuts the lubricant per square metre right down and pushes up the marring risk as you work. If you wash several cars a day, fill the spray bottle straight from the container. A small 500–750 ml spray bottle for hands-on use refills fast, without breaking your cleaning flow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn upside that often gets underrated with waterless-wash tech is that it leaves no residue. Unlike car shampoos, a quality waterless wash leaves no limescale spots or drying marks, because there's no water in play. You get an evenly clean, lightly glossy finish that's ready to go straight into a sealant top-up or a quick detailer — a clear practical edge over classic wet washing, where you have to wait for water spots and leftover moisture to dry off fully before any further care steps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn top of that, the environmental footprint of a waterless wash stacks up well against a classic car wash: where a normal wash can burn through 100–200 litres of water, the waterless wash gets by on the bit of water in the formula itself. For businesses that want to flag sustainability and resource saving as a service feature, that's a credible point to make to customers and clients. In water-scarce regions especially, or for businesses with a limited water hookup, the Waterless Wash isn't just handy — it's the responsible call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits in day-to-day work — when and where the Waterless Wash earns its place\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most classic use case for the Waterless Wash is the fleet down in the underground car park. Companies with their own fleet can't always run their cars to a wash or hit them with a pressure washer out on the street. The Waterless Wash lets you do a full car clean right there in the car park — no water hookup, no drain channel, no permit for water use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDealers and showrooms use the Waterless Wash to prep cars before handover, when the car is already set for collection and only needs one last light clean. In that scenario the Waterless Wash is quicker than a full wet wash and leaves no marks from water running out of door seals or from under the bonnet. For show and event cars that have to be presentation-ready every day with no water hookup, the Waterless Wash is the go-to method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDetailing businesses use the Waterless Wash as an in-between step during a job: after an IPA wipe and before the ceramic coating, you can pull off any dust that's settled on the car during the work — quickly and gently, without putting water near a surface you've already prepped. Used at the right point between steps, it lifts the quality of the final work in a way you can measure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's a handy tool for keeping cars sharp out in the field too: sales reps and field staff who need cars to look the part can keep a small bottle of Waterless Wash and a microfibre in the boot and do a quick clean any time, anywhere. The car stays presentation-ready without a detour to a car wash. In that slot, the Waterless Wash is hard to beat as a mobile quick-clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe right application technique — using Waterless Wash properly without the scratch risk\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique is the deciding factor in a low-marring waterless-wash result. You spray the product onto a clean, multi-folded microfibre — not straight onto the paint. The cloth wants to be soaked enough that the formula gives plenty of glide for the wipe. Work across the panel in straight, overlapping passes, not in circles, because circular motions spread dirt particles under the cloth instead of lifting them off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter each panel, flip the cloth to a fresh side or grab a new one. The most common mistake in waterless washing is using the same cloth across too many areas: a cloth already loaded with dirt drags that dirt across the next panels like an abrasive and puts in fine scratches. For a five-seater, plan on at least 6–8 microfibres for a full wash — three or four for the wipe-off, three or four for the buff with a dry cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou always wash in order, starting at the least dirty spots: roof, upper door areas and window frames first, then the side panels and bumpers, and the sills and the worst-soiled areas last. If the lower edge of the car is heavily soiled — with mud or brake dust, say — keep that area off the Waterless Wash and pre-treat it separately with water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to picking microfibres, the rule of thumb is simple: quality pays off. Cloths with at least 350 gsm and a long, plush pile are the best fit for the Waterless Wash, since they hold more dirt and put less pressure on the paint as you wipe. After use, separate the cloths from the rest of your wash kit straight away and wash them on their own to avoid cross-contamination. Never reuse microfibres that have been used for the Waterless Wash on coating or polishing work without washing them first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWaterless Wash vs. Winter Waterless Wash — the right one for each season\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-wintertrockenwasche-waterless-wash\"\u003ePROFILINE Winter Waterless Wash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the SONAX PROFILINE line has a version made specifically for winter work. The difference from the regular Waterless Wash is how it behaves at low temperatures: the winter formula carries antifreeze and is built to run down to certain sub-zero temperatures, whereas the standard formula can turn more viscous in the cold and get harder to spray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses in mild climates or with heated garages, the regular Waterless Wash is the all-year product. If you clean cars outdoors year-round in outside temperatures below 5 °C, you'll get more out of the winter version, which stays sprayable even in the cold and doesn't freeze on the car straight away. The choice between the two comes straight down to your climate and where you typically clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcross the year it makes sense to stock both and switch by the outside temperature. The cut-off where the winter version starts to make sense sits at roughly 5–8 °C outside. Above that, the standard formula works reliably; below it, switch to the winter version to keep results consistently good. If you only want to stock one, pick it by your main season and the typical temperatures where you work. Since both come in the same professional container format, you can swap over your stock easily without changing how you work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the Waterless Wash, a top-up with a spray sealant works especially well, since the paint is already clean and free of water spots. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-brilliantshine-detailer-spruehversiegelung\"\u003ePROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer spray sealant\u003c\/a\u003e goes on straight after the Waterless Wash and boosts the gloss and the hydrophobic protection on the paint — an efficient workflow for a full quick clean with no water hookup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis combo of Waterless Wash and a spray sealant after it is a tried-and-tested system that gets you a fully cleaned and sealed car in under 30 minutes — no power, no water and no drainage. In a commercial setting you can sell this workflow as a premium quick-care package, which lands especially well with customers short on time. The effort is low, the value the customer sees is high, and the visible gloss does the talking on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — which businesses and use cases the Waterless Wash suits best\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterless Wash \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the first pick for any business or organisation that has to clean cars regularly with no water hookup. Fleet managers, dealers, event service providers and mobile detailing businesses all benefit from the flexibility of needing only a spray product and microfibres. The 25-litre container is the most cost-effective and cheapest option for high daily throughput; the 5-litre container suits smaller operations or anyone getting started with the waterless-wash method. For mobile detailers cleaning cars on site at the customer's, the Waterless Wash is a key building block: it lets you work like a pro even where there's no water hookup, and it saves the hassle of water canisters and dirty-water disposal you'd otherwise need for mobile wet washing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's important to size up the use case realistically. The Waterless Wash doesn't replace a full wet wash on heavily soiled cars — it's a complement and an alternative for specific situations. Businesses that use the Waterless Wash deliberately for their use case get convincing results and real time savings out of it. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 stocks the Waterless Wash in both container sizes and is happy to help with any questions on application or product choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor companies looking to cut the water use of their car care for commercial or regulatory reasons, the Waterless Wash is a strategic tool. More and more, commercial estates and car park operators want proof of properly managed wastewater when cars are cleaned. Rinse-free cleaning does away with the wastewater problem entirely, which is a concrete advantage for fleet operations working on premises like that when it comes to getting car care signed off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to add the Waterless Wash to your service menu, be upfront with your customers about the product's limits and strengths. A properly done waterless wash is the best a car can get without water on light to medium dirt — and for plenty of customers who want their car kept clean regularly and gently, that's exactly the right answer. A quick explainer on the application and realistic expectations are the key to happy customers who'll come back for the service again and again. And if you stick consistently to the proven PROFILINE quality from SONAX, you send a clear, credible signal of professional standards at the same time — an argument that, with customers who value careful car care, regularly makes the difference between a one-off and a repeat job.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57345087144271,"sku":"D1-SNX-6375050","price":30.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57345087177039,"sku":"D1-SNX-6377050","price":106.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-trockenwasche_25l.png?v=1774731912"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-teerentferner-teerentferner","title":"PROFILINE Tar Remover Tar Remover","description":"\u003ch2\u003eReliably remove tar, bitumen and resin adhesive — SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover do? This solvent-based specialist product gently removes road tar, bitumen splashes, adhesive residues and tree resin from paintwork – without mechanical abrasion, without scratches, available in a 300 ml spray bottle and a 5-litre canister.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRoad tar and bitumen splashes are among the most stubborn contaminants on vehicle bodies: they adhere firmly to the paintwork, penetrate the surface over time and cannot be removed with normal car shampoos or all-purpose cleaners. Anyone attempting to mechanically rub off dried-on tar with a cloth risks deep scratches – tar particles are hard enough to permanently damage clear coats. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/strong\u003e solves this problem chemically: the solvent in the TarRemover penetrates under the tar crusts, breaks the bond between tar and paint, and allows for residue-free wiping without mechanical pressure and without the risk of scratching from manual rubbing. Available in a 300 ml spray bottle for targeted individual use and in a 5-litre container for professional businesses with high demand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eChemically dissolves road tar, bitumen, adhesive residues and tree resin – without the risk of scratches.\u003c\/strong\u003e With its solvent-based formulation, SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover penetrates under tar crusts and breaks their adhesive bond on the paintwork. The result: the tar softens, can be wiped off without pressure using a microfibre cloth and leaves no residue. Compared to mechanical removal with disposable pads or sandpaper, the paintwork is completely protected.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAlso effective on adhesive residues, stickers and insect residues – one product, many applications.\u003c\/strong\u003e SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover is not only specialized in tar – it also dissolves other stubborn organic and solvent-sensitive deposits: sticker adhesive residues, price tag residues, thin adhesive film residues, tree resin and dried insect residues. This replaces several specialist products and is a universal tool for stubborn stains in vehicle detailing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo container sizes for every need – 300 ml and 5 litres.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 300 ml spray bottle is designed for targeted use on individual tar spots or as part of a mobile detailing kit. The 5-litre canister format is the economical choice for professional detailing businesses that use TarRemover daily and in larger quantities – for used car preparation or after road works with heavy tar spray, the larger supply is a clear operational advantage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spray \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/strong\u003e onto the tar spot and let it work for 1–2 minutes – do not wipe immediately. The exposure time is crucial: the solvent needs time to diffuse under the tar and break the adhesion. Then wipe with a clean microfibre cloth without pressure – for larger or thicker tar deposits, spray a second time and let it work if necessary. After removal, treat the affected area with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to completely remove solvent residues from the paint surface – especially important if a ceramic coating or sealant is to be applied afterwards. Always use a fresh cloth segment to avoid smearing the dissolved tar back onto the paintwork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePrinciple of action and formulation – how TarRemover chemically dissolves bitumen and adhesives\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe mode of action of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/strong\u003e is based on a solvent mixture specifically tailored to the chemical structure of bitumen, tar and similar hydrocarbon-based substances. Road tar and bitumen consist of complex organic macromolecules that form a physical bond with the paint surface upon impact – similar to an adhesive. This bond is strong enough to withstand manual washing, but not resistant to the right solvents.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe solvent mixture in SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover penetrates under the tar deposit by capillary action, forms a layer between the tar and the paint surface, and reduces the adhesion of the tar mass. At the same time, the solvent partially dissolves the polymer chains of the tar, making the deposit soft and thus allowing for residue-free wiping with minimal mechanical effort. The paint itself is not attacked when used correctly – the formulation is paint-compatible and does not attack clear coat or base coat pigments if the product is not left on for too long and is completely wiped off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor adhesive residues from stickers, foils or price tags, the principle of action is similar: adhesives are also solvent-sensitive polymers whose adhesion is broken down by the SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover solvent. Stubborn adhesive residues that remain on the paint surface after mechanical removal of stickers are completely eliminated by short exposure time and wiping. For very thick adhesive layers (e.g. from old foils), a second treatment may be necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication in the detailing workflow – step-by-step to blemish-free paintwork\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/strong\u003e occupies a defined position in the professional detailing workflow: it is used after pre-cleaning (pressure washer, foam), but before the actual wash – in the so-called \"Decontamination Phase\" of paint preparation. In this phase, all contaminants that normal washing does not remove are eliminated: iron particles with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-flugrostentferner-kraftreiniger-sauer-eisenentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE RustRemover\u003c\/a\u003e, tar and adhesive with the TarRemover, and tree resin also with the TarRemover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe specific workflow: allow the vehicle to dry after pre-cleaning (or at least dab dry the areas to be treated). Spray TarRemover onto the tar spot – as targeted as possible to avoid wetting more paint than necessary. Let it work for 1–2 minutes (up to 3 minutes for thicker deposits). Wipe off with a fresh microfibre cloth without pressure in a wiping motion. If the spot is not yet completely dissolved, repeat the process. After complete removal, wipe the treated area with a damp cloth and remove the solvent film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake is wiping too early: if there is not enough exposure time, you have to rub with pressure – which significantly increases the risk of scratches. A second common mistake is using the same cloth for several tar spots without changing the cloth side: the dissolved tar in the cloth is smeared back onto the paintwork during the next use. With sufficient fresh cloth segments and the correct exposure time, TarRemover is an efficient, scratch-free tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application – where TarRemover shows its strengths\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/strong\u003e is relevant for several typical contamination scenarios in everyday vehicle detailing. The most common scenario is road tar contamination: especially after road construction work or on freshly tarred roads, bitumen droplets settle on the underside of the vehicle, on sills, lower edges and on the lower bodywork. Even a few days after impact, these tar splashes are dried on and firmly adhering. TarRemover dissolves them at all stages of development – from fresh to deposits that have been dried on for weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second main scenario is tree resin: vehicles parked under trees regularly collect resin drops on the roof, bonnet and boot lid. Tree resin is sticky and attracts dust and fine dust, which gets trapped in the resin – this makes the spots even darker and more stubborn over time. TarRemover effectively dissolves fresh and dried tree resin. Unlike tar, tree resin can often also be scraped off with a fingernail – the advantage of TarRemover is that it makes this mechanical action unnecessary and removes tree resin residues without the risk of scratching.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third scenario is film and sticker adhesive residues: vehicles that carry advertising films, parking permits or stickers often leave adhesive residues on the paintwork when removed. With \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-stain-ex-klebstoffentferner-kleberentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Stain Ex AdhesiveRemover\u003c\/a\u003e, there is a specialized product for particularly stubborn adhesives – but for the majority of standard adhesive residues in everyday detailing, TarRemover does a good job and saves a separate product grab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTarRemover in comparison – solvent-based vs. alternative removal methods\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the market for tar removers, there are basically two approaches: solvent-based products like \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/strong\u003e and aqueous, surfactant-based alternatives. Aqueous tar removers work slower, need longer to act, and often require multiple treatment passes for thick tar deposits. For fresh, not yet fully cured tar, they are often sufficient – but for older, firmly dried bitumen spots, they reach their limits. The advantage of solvent-based products: faster action, more effective penetration of dried deposits, less mechanical effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother comparison concerns household remedies: cooking oil, butter or nail polish remover are occasionally recommended as \"tar removers\". Cooking oil can indeed loosen fresh tar – but it leaves a greasy film on the paintwork, which is difficult to remove and, if not completely removed, prevents the adhesion of sealants. Nail polish remover (acetone) is aggressive enough to dissolve tar, but it also attacks clear coats and is not suitable for regular use on vehicle paints. SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover is developed for paintwork, formulated to be paint-compatible and leaves no residues after correct wiping that would impair further detailing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen deciding between 300 ml and 5 litres, an assessment of your own consumption helps: an average vehicle with normal tar contamination requires 5–15 ml of TarRemover for a complete treatment. The 300 ml bottle can therefore treat approximately 20–60 vehicles, depending on the severity of the tar. For businesses that prepare used cars daily and regularly deal with heavy tar contamination, the 5-litre canister format pays for itself after a few weeks compared to repeatedly purchasing the 300 ml bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover – container size, application recommendation and combination\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TarRemover\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in two container sizes: a 300 ml spray bottle for targeted individual use and 5 litres for professional businesses. The 300 ml spray bottle is sufficient for treating tar on several vehicles and is ideal for mobile detailers or for occasional contamination in private use. The 5-litre canister is designed for stationary detailing businesses that regularly prepare used cars: used cars often have heavier tar contamination than well-maintained first-owner vehicles, and the more economical 5-litre canister makes its use profitable even for intensive tar treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs supplementary products for complete paint decontamination, Detailing1 recommends SONAX PROFILINE RustRemover for iron particle removal – both products together cover the complete chemical decontamination of the paintwork before polishing or sealing begins. Cleanly decontaminated paintwork shows better results when polished and absorbs sealants and ceramic coatings more evenly than paintwork with remaining contamination residues.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eConclusion: SONAX PROFILINE TarRemover is an indispensable tool in professional vehicle detailing – not for every vehicle in every detailing session, but for all cases where tar, bitumen, tree resin or adhesive residues are present on the paintwork. The formulation protects the paintwork, the two container sizes suit every application profile, and the product works effectively without mechanical effort. A product that should not be missing from any professional detailing kit.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57345100808527,"sku":"D1-SNX-3045050","price":57.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-teerentferner_5liter.png?v=1774731909"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate-innenraumreiniger","title":"PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate Interior Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eOne Liter of Concentrate for Every Interior Cleaning Job — SONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can an interior cleaner concentrate do that a ready-to-use spray cannot? The professional concentrate detailer from SONAX can be diluted from 1:10 to 1:50, depending on the degree of soiling — one liter yields between 10 and 50 liters of ready-to-use solution for textiles, leather, plastic, and metal.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who regularly cleans vehicle interiors knows: the cleaning effort varies enormously — there's a world of difference between a slightly dusty rental car and a heavily soiled commercial vehicle. A single spray for all situations is a compromise — either too strong for delicate surfaces or too weak for stubborn dirt. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e solves this problem with a variable mixing ratio: from 1:10 for intensive cleaning of heavily soiled surfaces to 1:50 for gentle care of delicate materials — always from the same concentrate, always tailored to the current job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVariable mixing ratio from 1:10 to 1:50 for every application.\u003c\/strong\u003e The concentrated formula gives the user control over the cleaning intensity. 1:10 is suitable for heavily soiled plastics, ingrained textile floors, and worn steering wheels; 1:30 to 1:50 for delicate leather, Alcantara, and headliner surfaces that are only lightly dusty. One concentrate thus replaces several different ready-to-use products with different strengths — economical and space-saving for professional use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAntistatic effect keeps dust away permanently.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula contains antistatic agents that build a protective layer on the surface after cleaning, preventing electrostatic charges. Plastic and rubber surfaces in the vehicle interior tend to accumulate electrostatic charges, which magnetically attract household dust and fine dust — the reason why cleaned dashboards often get dusty faster than other surfaces. With the antistatic protection, the cleaned surface remains significantly cleaner for longer after treatment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free formula — safe for all interior surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Interior Detailer Concentrate is silicone-free. Silicone leaves a shiny film on plastics that traps dirt, dulls the surface over time, and poses a safety risk on airbag modules and steering wheel grips. The silicone-free formulation leaves no greasy residues — textiles remain breathable, leather retains its natural grip, and hard plastics get a subtle, non-intrusive sheen.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For professional use, it is advisable to prepare several pre-mixed spray bottles with different dilution levels: one bottle at 1:15 for plastics and door panels, one at 1:30 for seats and textiles, and one at 1:50 for headliners and delicate leather parts. This saves remeasuring for each vehicle and provides direct access to the appropriate strength. When using on the vehicle headliner, always spray onto a microfiber cloth first, never directly onto the headliner — direct wet application can loosen the adhesive on glued headliners. Do not use on windows, displays, or navigation devices; for glass cleaning, a dedicated glass cleaner is the cleaner choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eConcentrate Formula — How SONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate Works on Various Interior Surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate detailer from the PROFILINE range is designed for cleaning the entire vehicle interior, with the exception of glass, displays, and electronic surfaces. The formula combines surfactant-based cleaning components with conditioning agents: the surfactants dissolve grease, fingerprints, dust, and organic contaminants from surfaces; the conditioning components strengthen the cleaned surface, prevent electrostatic charge, and leave a subtle protective film. This dual function — cleaning and conditioning in one step — is the core advantage over pure cleaners without conditioning agents.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn textile seats and floors, the Interior Detailer works through mechanical and chemical dirt removal: the concentrate is applied to a microfiber care pad or cleaning brush, the fibers are opened by the movement, and dirt is lifted from deep within. The surfactant's lubricating ability reduces friction resistance during scrubbing, allowing even deeper dirt to be loosened without excessive force. For heavily soiled textiles, use the 1:10 mixture, let it sit briefly (30–60 seconds), and then work it in with a steam extractor or wet microfiber cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn leather, dilution is crucial: genuine car leather, especially older leather interiors, reacts sensitively to over-cleaning. The Interior Detailer Concentrate should be used on leather in a 1:30 to 1:50 dilution — a too concentrated solution can dissolve the natural oils from the leather and dry out the surface in the long term. After cleaning leather with the concentrate, a leather care step with a nourishing leather cream to replenish lost oils is ideally followed. The Interior Detailer Concentrate is a cleaner, not a leather conditioner — this separation of tasks in the workflow is important for long-lasting leather interior care. Those who want to do both in one step can use a dedicated leather care product; those who clean sequentially and then condition will achieve a more thorough result because the conditioner is applied to an already cleaned, open-pored surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn hard plastics — dashboard, door panels, center console — the concentrate in a 1:15 to 1:20 dilution provides the best combination of cleaning performance and subtle conditioning. The antistatic after-effect is most noticeable on plastic: anyone who has treated their dashboard with the Interior Detailer Concentrate will notice that it takes significantly longer for dust to accumulate again compared to untreated plastics. Shiny plastic panels that show fingerprints should be treated with a softer cloth and a stronger dilution to avoid micro-scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Interior Detailer Concentrate — Dilution, Spray Bottle, and Procedure\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application of Interior Detailer Concentrate begins with preparing the ready-to-use solution: pour concentrate into a spray bottle, then fill with water to the desired ratio (always concentrate first, then water — this minimizes foam formation when filling). For standard cleaning of plastics and textiles, 1:15 is a good starting point. Shake the bottle lightly, then spray onto the material to be cleaned.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplication should always be to a microfiber cloth or foam applicator, never directly onto sensitive surfaces such as headliners or Alcantara. On robust surfaces such as rubber floor mats or heavily soiled plastics, it can be sprayed directly. Guide the cloth evenly over the surface, either in a circular motion or in the direction of the fibers (always in the direction of the fibers for Alcantara). For seams, textures, and panel gaps in the dashboard, a soft detailing brush is recommended to work the concentrate into hard-to-reach areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDwell time is not necessary for normal soiling — the formula works immediately upon application and working in. For more stubborn dirt (dried-on food, dirt rings in seat creases), leave the solution on the surface briefly (30–60 seconds) to allow the surfactants to soften the dirt. Then work it in with the cloth. Remove excess with a clean, dry microfiber cloth and allow the surface to dry. The result after drying: a clean, subtly conditioned surface without streaks, greasy film, or residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor working on door sills and footwell corners, where dirt stubbornly settles in crevices, a more concentrated solution (1:10 to 1:15) combined with a thin detailing brush is suitable. The brush applies the concentrate into the crevices, mechanically loosens the dirt, and a damp cloth wipes away the loosened particles. This workflow works particularly well on rubber-edged door sills, where silicone-containing products often leave streaks, which the Interior Detailer Concentrate naturally avoids due to its silicone-free formula.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1-liter concentrate is not intended for single-use home application, but for portioned use over a long period. At a 1:20 mixture, 1 liter of concentrate yields 20 liters of ready-to-use solution — for a professional operation with 3–5 vehicles daily, this is easily enough for several weeks. The bottle should be stored in a dry, cool place; the concentrate is stable and will last for many months with proper storage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAntistatic, Scent, and Surface Compatibility — What Sets the Interior Detailer Apart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe antistatic property of the Interior Detailer Concentrate is one of the most noticeable advantages in everyday use. Anyone who regularly cleans their vehicle knows the problem: hardly has the dashboard been wiped clean, it has a thin layer of dust again after a few days. This rapid re-soiling is physically caused: plastic surfaces become electrostatically charged by friction while driving and attract dust particles from the air. The antistatic agent in the Interior Detailer Concentrate neutralizes this charge after cleaning — the surface is electrically neutral after treatment and attracts dust significantly slower. The more regularly the product is used, the more stable this protective effect becomes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother aspect of the antistatic effect concerns durability after cleaning: treated surfaces must be cleaned at shorter intervals if antistatic protection is not used. Anyone who previously had to wipe down their interior weekly will find, after regular treatment with the Interior Detailer Concentrate, that bi-weekly maintenance is sufficient to maintain the same standard of cleanliness. This accumulates over a year to significantly less cleaning effort — a practical effect that goes beyond mere cleaning performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fragrance experience of the Interior Detailer Concentrate is unusually pleasant for a professional cleaner: the formula contains subtle aromas of coconut and pineapple, which leave the interior smelling fresh and pleasant after cleaning — without the sharp chemical smell of many industrial interior cleaners. For customer contact situations (car dealership detailing, vehicle handover after detailing), this is a relevant detail: the interior smells clean, not of cleaning products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate is not suitable for glass surfaces, displays, touchscreens, and navigation devices. These surfaces have special coatings (anti-fingerprint coatings, oleophobic coatings) that can be attacked by the surfactant formula of the Interior Detailer Concentrate. For glass cleaning in the vehicle interior, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is suitable as a supplement for non-glass surfaces; for windows, a dedicated glass cleaner. The clear distinction: Interior Detailer Concentrate for all non-transparent interior surfaces, glass cleaner for windows and displays.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eInterior Detailer Concentrate Compared — vs. Interior Cleaner and SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE interior range, there are three main products with clear positioning. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the ready-to-use all-purpose spray for quick cleaning without mixing effort — ideal for frequent interim cleaning and businesses that want cleaning products readily available without measuring. The Interior Detailer Concentrate, on the other hand, is the concentrate for variable cleaning intensity — more control over strength, more economical for large quantities, more flexible in use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e is the specialist product for delicate surfaces: Alcantara, velour, microfiber interiors, and other textured materials that can become streaky or dull with normal cleaners. It is not available as a concentrate and has an even gentler formula than the Interior Detailer Concentrate at maximum dilution. For vehicles with Alcantara inserts in the cockpit or sports bucket seats, the SensitiveSurface Detailer is recommended for these specific areas, while the Interior Detailer Concentrate handles the rest of the interior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note for businesses using \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/a\u003e: The Ecocert product is the bio-certified alternative for businesses with a sustainability focus — it contains only ingredients approved according to the Ecocert standard. The cleaning performance is comparable to the Interior Detailer Concentrate at medium dilution, but without the antistatic component. For businesses without sustainability requirements, the Interior Detailer Concentrate is the more powerful all-round choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Interior Cleaner Concentrate — Target Group, Economy, and Recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e is the main product for professional detailing businesses that clean multiple vehicle interiors daily and require maximum flexibility with minimal storage. One liter of concentrate replaces 10–50 liters of finished product depending on dilution — an enormous logistical advantage for workshops with limited storage space and high cleaning volumes. The economy speaks for itself: in terms of cleaning performance to price, the concentrate beats almost any ready-to-use alternative.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor ambitious hobby detailers with multiple vehicles or a vehicle that is regularly intensely detailed, the concentrate also makes sense. Anyone who maintains their interior monthly and always needs the right strength for different materials will benefit from the mixing flexibility just like a professional. The extra effort of mixing is manageable with a prepared set of spray bottles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone using the concentrate for the first time should start in an inconspicuous area of the vehicle — especially with unknown synthetic leather or Alcantara variants. Although the Interior Detailer Concentrate is suitable for all common interior surfaces, there are variants of very old or damaged leather as well as cheap synthetic leather imitations that can react to surfactant-containing cleaners with a slight color change. A brief test spot is generally recommended for valuable interiors, regardless of which cleaning product is used.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate is less suitable for occasional users who need it once or twice a year and do not want to keep a ready-to-use spray bottle permanently available — in this case, a ready-to-use interior cleaner is more practical. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 permanently stocks the PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate in the 1-liter container size, which is designed for continuous professional use. Those who want to set up a starter kit for professional interior detailing should ideally combine the concentrate with a set of good microfiber care cloths in different strengths (for plastic, textile, and leather separately), a detailing brush for crevices, and a steam cleaner for intensive deep cleaning — the Interior Detailer Concentrate then becomes the chemical core that drives all these tools.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57345101037903,"sku":"D1-SNX-1993000","price":18.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate_1liter.png?v=1774731865"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-microfibre-wash-mikrofaserwaschmittel","title":"PROFILINE Microfibre Wash Microfibre Detergent","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWash and revive microfibre cloths properly — SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash do? This dedicated detergent for microfibre cloths pulls polish, wax and coating residue out of the fine fibres, brings back the original absorbency and protects the fibre structure from wearing out before its time.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMicrofibre cloths are the most heavily used consumable in pro detailing: every car burns through a dozen or more cloths across different jobs — pulling off polish, laying down sealant, cleaning glass, working the interior. Spending money on quality cloths like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-coating-towel-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Coating Towel\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-glas-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch Glas\u003c\/a\u003e only pays off if you wash them right and keep them, over many sessions, in the shape that holds onto their original performance. Standard detergents fall short here: they aren't built for the chemical residue of detailing work, they leave fabric-softener film that clogs the fibres, and they degrade the fibre structure over time. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash\u003c\/strong\u003e is the detergent formulated specifically for what pro detailing demands: it fully dissolves polish, wax, silicone and coating residue out of the microfibres, skips the fabric softener that gums up the weave, and goes easy on the fine fibre structure that gives the cloths their absorbency and scratch-free character. Available in 1000 ml.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFully dissolves polish, wax and coating residue out of microfibre cloths.\u003c\/strong\u003e The residue you get after detailing work is a real challenge for standard household detergent: cured polish remains, dried wax particles, silicone left over from dressings and hardened ceramic over-coat all block up the microfibres and noticeably drop their absorbency. SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash is built for exactly this kind of residue and dissolves it without the aggressive chemistry that would damage the fibres.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFabric-softener-free — keeps the absorbency and cleaning power of the microfibres.\u003c\/strong\u003e Fabric softener is the enemy of good microfibre cloths: the substances in it settle on the microfibres and seal off their surface — the cloth feels soft, but it soaks up far worse. SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash leaves out fabric-softener substances completely, so after the wash the fibres pull water like a brand-new cloth.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtects fine fibre structures — stretches the life of quality microfibre cloths considerably.\u003c\/strong\u003e Quality microfibre cloths for ceramic application, glass cleaning and pulling off polish don't come cheap. Wash them with the wrong detergent and you throw away the quality you paid for. SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash extends their working life with a fibre-friendly formula and a clean that doesn't deform the fibre geometry. A cloth that lasts ten times longer pays back the detergent many times over.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sort cloths by what they're used for and wash them separately — Coating Towels with hardened ceramic residue need a different wash than your everyday polish cloths. Put SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash in at the right dose (follow the maker's spec, typically 50–100 ml per wash) straight into the machine, and wash the cloths at 30–40°C with no spin. The spin cycle deforms the microfibre pile. Never wash them with textiles made of other materials — cotton lint settles into the microfibres and drops the cleaning power for good. Let cloths air-dry after the wash, not in the tumble dryer — heat can change the fibre geometry. For Coating Towels carrying heavy residue, soak them first in lukewarm water with a few drops of Microfibre Wash, then wash — that loosens dried-on residue ahead of the machine clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFormula and how it works — how SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash dissolves detailing residue\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tricky part of washing detailing microfibre cloths is the sheer variety of residue you have to get out. After a day's work, a polish-removal cloth holds a mix of abrasive-particle remains, oil-based polish carrier, paint pigments from the panel you worked and possibly silicone from the lubricating additives in the polish. A \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-coating-towel-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eCoating Towel\u003c\/a\u003e holds SiO₂ or ceramic particles that, depending on how far they've cured, can sit tight in the fibres. A glass cloth holds surfactant residue and mineral deposits from hard water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash\u003c\/strong\u003e takes on these different residue types with a formula that leans on several dissolving mechanisms: surfactants that wrap and emulsify the grease-based polish residue, complexing agents that break down mineral deposits from limescale or abrasive particles, and a neutral-to-mildly-alkaline pH base that even loosens inorganic coating particles without attacking the polyester fibres of the microfibre itself. The formula deliberately contains no cationic surfactants — those are the compounds in fabric softener responsible for that soft feel, but they clog the fibres at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe result after one wash with SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash is a cloth that soaks up like new again: the fibres are free of residue, the capillary action of the microfibres is back, and the cloth's surface is even again, with no hardened zones. Wet a polish-removal cloth after the wash and wring it out, and you feel the difference straight away — after a proper Microfibre Wash cycle the cloth gives back noticeably more water when you wring it and soaks up fast again, the sign that the fibre channels are clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich cloths benefit from SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash — compatibility at a glance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash\u003c\/strong\u003e suits every quality microfibre cloth in detailing — both within the SONAX PROFILINE system and microfibre cloths from other makers. In the SONAX PROFILINE system, the key cloths that gain from proper care with Microfibre Wash are: the SONAX PROFILINE Coating Towel for ceramic application (proper care matters most here, since hardened ceramic residue ruins the cloth fast), the SONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch Glas for streak-free glass cleaning (here fabric-softener residue wrecks the streak behaviour straight away) and all the standard microfibre cloths used for pulling off polish, laying on detailer and cleaning the interior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor foam application pads like the SONAX PROFILINE CoatingApplicator, Microfibre Wash matters less — foam pads get cleaned differently. Wool pads and lambswool pads aren't washed with Microfibre Wash either, since their wool fibres have different care needs than synthetic microfibres. Microfibre Wash is tuned specifically for synthetic microfibres (polyester\/polyamide blends), which make up the bulk of pro detailing cloths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne special case is breaking in new microfibre cloths: even factory-fresh cloths can carry sizing residue from textile production that limits absorbency on the first use. A wash with SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash before the first job clears out this factory residue and gets the cloth pulling at full performance from the very first use. For pricier specialist cloths like the Coating Towel, this prep is well worth it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUse in a professional setup — dose, wash programme and how much you need\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn a busy detailing operation with high cloth throughput, using \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash\u003c\/strong\u003e efficiently is part of running the numbers. Getting the dose right is the heart of it: too little detergent cleans incompletely and leaves residue in the fibres. Too much means needless cost and possibly surfactant residue if the cycle doesn't rinse enough. The maker's recommendation, depending on water temperature and load, sits at 50–100 ml per standard wash (5–7 kg load) — for cloths with very heavy residue (e.g. Coating Towels after ceramic application) you can dose at the top end.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe recommended wash programme for detailing microfibre cloths: a 30–40°C gentle programme with no fabric softener, a moderate spin (400–600 rpm max), a delicates programme if you have one. Higher temperatures (60°C and up) clean more aggressively, but on synthetic microfibres they can press the fibre cross-sections together and cut the capillary action for good. If you want to play it safe: 30°C plus a double rinse, paired with the right Microfibre Wash dose, gives very good results without thermal stress on the fibres.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor planning how much you need: a 1-litre bottle of SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash lasts 10–20 washes with steady use, depending on dose and load. For an operation washing three times a week, one litre covers four to six weeks. That makes Microfibre Wash a very economical bit of kit: the protection it gives the far pricier microfibre cloths — whose life can triple with proper care — outweighs the cost of the detergent many times over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eVersus household detergents and alternatives — why a dedicated clean is the difference\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe question keeps coming up: can off-the-shelf detergent or alternative products do the same job as \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash\u003c\/strong\u003e? The short answer: not on par for pro detailing use. Here's the head-to-head. Standard heavy-duty detergents (Persil, Ariel and the like) are made for cotton and blends at 40–95°C. They often contain optical brighteners that settle on dark microfibre cloths and can leave white streak marks on the paint when the cloth is used to pull off polish. On top of that, many heavy-duty detergents contain cationic surfactants or get paired with fabric softeners that clog the fibre capillaries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDelicate detergents like Perwoll are gentler on fibres and more softener-free than heavy-duty types, but they too aren't built for the specific residue of car detailing. Polish oils, silicone remains and SiO₂ particles from ceramic coatings are far more stubborn than ordinary textile soiling. Delicate detergents emulsify these substances less effectively than a product tuned for detailing chemistry. The result: the cloth looks clean after the wash, but the fibres aren't fully clear of polish-oil residue — on the next job the cloth gives that residue back onto the freshly polished paint and can create a smeary film that drags down your polish finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSome detailers use diluted \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-all-purpose-cleaner-foam-universalreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e as a pre-treatment for heavily soiled cloths — that makes sense for a rough pre-wash, but it doesn't replace the final cycle with SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash, which rinses the remaining emulsified residue out of the fibres and protects the fibre geometry. Pairing a pre-wash with All-Purpose-Cleaner and a main wash with Microfibre Wash is the most effective workflow for cloths carrying heavy polish or coating load — the pre-wash breaks up the coarsest residue, the main wash gives the fibres back their original absorbency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash — when it's worth it and how you use it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash\u003c\/strong\u003e comes as a 1000 ml bottle and is for anyone running pro microfibre cloths in detailing who wants to protect that investment. Choosing a dedicated detergent is choosing to run your cloth stock economically: buy ten SONAX PROFILINE Coating Towels at several euros each, then ruin them beyond repair with standard detergent after five jobs, and you've lost more money than a year's worth of Microfibre Wash would cost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing enthusiasts who do the occasional car and run a smaller set of cloths, Microfibre Wash already makes sense at ten to twenty cloths — even a single Coating Towel whose life triples from five to twenty jobs beats the price of a litre bottle of Microfibre Wash. For professional operations, Microfibre Wash isn't an optional extra but a fixed part of buying in supplies, right alongside polishes, sealants or pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: SONAX PROFILINE Microfibre Wash is the logical companion to a quality microfibre-cloth stock. It protects the money you put into good cloths, fully restores the cleaning power after every job and keeps the SONAX PROFILINE cloth system — Coating Towel, MicrofaserTuch Glas and other specialist cloths — holding its value for years. One litre of detergent for 10–20 washes is one of the smallest, best-returning investments in a pro detailing setup.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57345101627727,"sku":"D1-SNX-4523000","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-microfibre-wash_1liter.png?v=1774731871"},{"product_id":"sonax-autohartwax-wachsversiegelung","title":"AutoHartWax Wax Sealant","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eSONAX AutoHartWax lays down a carnauba layer for deep, high gloss\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is SONAX AutoHartWax? A liquid hard wax with carnauba for new and as-new solid and metallic paint that builds colour depth and a mirror-like shine while protecting against the weather. Not a substitute for polishing weathered paint, and not a ceramic coating with months of durability.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX AutoHartWax\u003c\/strong\u003e is a liquid hard wax from SONAX built on real carnauba wax. Once you lay it down, it sits as a thin, protective film over the paint, visually smooths the surface and makes the light reflect more evenly, so the paint looks deeper, darker and wetter. At the same time the wax layer shields against weather, dirt and light environmental fallout, and as you apply it, it even lifts fine tar specks gently along the way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCarnauba is the reason this wax looks different from a synthetic sealant. The plant wax gives you a warm, rich gloss with real colour depth, while pure synthetic sealants often come across cooler and glassier. If you like the classic wax look, where dark paint really goes deep, a carnauba hard wax is the right call. Just 1 thin coat is enough for the effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCarnauba gloss with colour depth.\u003c\/strong\u003e The wax intensifies the paint colour and delivers that warm, mirror-like shine carnauba is known for, especially on dark solid and metallic paint. 1 wafer-thin coat, visibly more depth.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eShampoo-proof, 3 to 4 applications a year.\u003c\/strong\u003e The layer stands up to normal car shampoo washes; SONAX recommends 3 to 4 applications per year. A 500 ml bottle therefore lasts for a lot of car passes across 2 to 3 seasons, because you only ever lay it down wafer-thin.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to work, wet or dry.\u003c\/strong\u003e The liquid hard wax goes on thin and even with a pad or applicator sponge, on either wet or dry paint. After 1 to 2 minutes of flashing off, you wipe it back — no hours of buffing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with hard wax is laying on too much. A thick layer cures unevenly, barely comes off and leaves white streaks in gaps and recesses. Less is more: lay the wax on wafer-thin, always work one connected panel at a time like the bonnet, roof or a single door, let it haze over for 1 to 2 minutes and then wipe it back with a clean, soft microfibre cloth. And never work in full sun, or the wax will bake on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWash first, then lay it on wafer-thin and wipe it back\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWash the paint thoroughly first, shake the wax and lay it down wafer-thin with a pad or applicator sponge on wet or dry paint, always panel by panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA clean base is a must, because wax preserves whatever state it finds. If you don't wash properly first, you lock dust and dirt particles in under the wax layer. Then lay the wax on with an \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/zubehoer\"\u003eapplicator sponge\u003c\/a\u003e in thin, overlapping passes and work connected areas like the whole bonnet in 1 go, so no edges show through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter you've applied it, let the wax flash off for 1 to 2 minutes until it hazes over. Then wipe it back with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and follow up with a second, dry cloth for the final wipe. With 2 cloths the gloss stays streak-free. For a whole car, plan on about 30 to 45 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo check whether you've wiped off enough, use the back of your hand: if it glides over the paint with no smeary film, the area is buffed clean. If a light haze stays behind, go over it with a fresh, dry cloth. 1 thin coat is plenty; a second coat barely adds any more depth but doubles your effort on removal. When in doubt, lay on too little rather than too much — you can always add more, while scrubbing off a layer that's too thick is exactly the job you want to avoid.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork warm, but not hot, and never in direct sun. In summer temperatures above 25 °C you're better off waxing in the morning or in the shade, because the wax dries too fast on a hot bonnet and then only comes off with a struggle. Refreshed 3 to 4 times a year, the protection holds through the season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor as-new paint, not for paint correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAutoHartWax is a protection and gloss product for new and as-new paint, and it corrects neither scratches nor holograms nor oxidation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn weathered, flat or scratched paint the wax does go on, but it only masks the defects for a short while instead of fixing them, and it even seals them in. If the paint has gone dull or shows wash marks, a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/politur\"\u003epolish\u003c\/a\u003e belongs before waxing to smooth the surface back out. Only after that does the carnauba bring the full, even gloss. On plastic, matte paint or unpainted trim, hard wax has no place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHard wax doesn't go up against a ceramic coating either. If anything, it helps to sort out where each one fits: if you want the warm carnauba glow and the easy hands-on work 3 to 4 times a year, AutoHartWax is the right pick. If you want maximum durability over many months and top scratch and chemical resistance, you reach for a ceramic sealant from the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/lackversiegelung\"\u003epaint sealant\u003c\/a\u003e range, which can hold 12 months and longer. And if the paint needs correcting first, polishing comes before everything else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA pleasant side effect shows up while you apply it: the wax gently lifts fine tar specks and light grime that a normal wash leaves behind. So you clean and protect in one go. For the typical spring and autumn use, that means after winter you clear the car of the last road-salt and tar residue in one pass and lay down the protective layer for the warm season at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo ground rules stick: shake the bottle before use, because the wax settles, and store it frost-free so the emulsion stays stable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor hand-waxers who like the carnauba look\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAutoHartWax is worth it for anyone who waxes their paint by hand 2 to 4 times a year and prefers the warm carnauba glow over the sober look of a pure synthetic sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's the product for the carer who enjoys the half hour at the car and wants to see the result, not for the one who wants to coat once and have a year of peace — a coating does that better. On well-kept, regularly re-waxed cars the hard wax plays to its strength, because the gloss gets richer with every application and the thin layer reliably protects the paint against the weather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou don't need to do the maths on quantity: because you only lay it on wafer-thin, the 500 ml bottle lasts for a lot of applications, and at 3 to 4 passes a year it'll see you through 2 to 3 seasons. With 1 applicator sponge and 2 clean microfibre cloths, you've got the whole kit together. Anyone caring for several cars often gets a full year out of one bottle, because only a few millilitres go on per car and per pass, and the thin coat still brings the full gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want maximum gloss, pair the hard wax with the right wash. A pH-neutral shampoo keeps the wax layer alive over the weeks instead of stripping it bit by bit like an aggressive cleaner does. That noticeably stretches the durability between 2 wax passes and means you need to get to it less often than the recommended 3 to 4 times a year. A freshly waxed, dark paint that beads water in fat drops after the rain is the most visible reward for that half hour of hands-on work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe point no label spells out: hard wax lives off the prep. On freshly washed, decontaminated and smooth paint the carnauba grips evenly and reflects; on a rough, uncleaned surface the gloss comes out patchy. Those 10 minutes of prep decide more about the result in the end than the wax itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":57405960257871,"sku":"D1-SNX-03012000","price":17.79,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-autohartwax.png?v=1775381429"},{"product_id":"sonax-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger","title":"AutoInnenReiniger interior cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eSONAX AutoInnenReiniger cleans plastic and upholstery with one product\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the SONAX AutoInnenReiniger? An all-purpose cleaner for the whole car interior that lifts both plastic and fabric surfaces at once: dashboard, door cards, headliner and upholstery. It's not a leather conditioner and it won't magic out old, deeply dried-in stains without some mechanical work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX AutoInnenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e is an all-purpose interior cleaner from SONAX that works with a foaming surfactant formula. The foam works into the fibres of upholstery and carpet, lifts the dirt, and comes back out with a brush or microfibre cloth. On smooth plastic like the dashboard and door cards it wipes away dust film, fingerprints and grip marks without leaving a greasy or glossy layer behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe real win is one product for lots of materials. Inside a car you've got hard plastic, piano black, fabric, carpet and sometimes Alcantara all packed into a tiny space — that's quickly 4 to 5 different surfaces per door. Buying a separate spray for each gets messy fast. The AutoInnenReiniger covers most of them, so you work your way through the whole car with one 500 ml bottle instead of constantly swapping products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne product for the whole interior.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dashboard, door cards, centre console, headliner, seats and carpet — that's 4 to 5 different materials, one cleaner. You're not switching between a plastic and a fabric product, you just work your way through the whole cabin with one spray bottle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e500 ml spray bottle, dose it where you want.\u003c\/strong\u003e The trigger lays the cleaner down with 2 to 3 pulls exactly on the area you're working, instead of misting everything. So you burn through little product per seat and keep overspray off glass, screens and electronics.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFoam that lifts the dirt out.\u003c\/strong\u003e On fabric the cleaner builds a foam that carries loosened dirt upward instead of pushing it deeper into the fibre. After 1 to 2 minutes you work it in with the brush and pull it back out, dirt and all, in one pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake is treating only the spot you can see. Clean fabric spot by spot and you're left with a lighter, cleaner island with a hard edge around it, because the rest of the surface still wears the old grey haze. Always do the whole connected part — the entire seat or the full panel — in one pass. And with the headliner: just mist it, don't soak it, or the glue underneath can let go and the fabric ends up wrinkled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSpray on, work it in, do the whole surface, don't soak it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpray the cleaner onto the surface, work it in with a brush or microfibre cloth, and always do the whole part so you don't get light edges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn smooth plastic, spray on and wipe off with a slightly damp microfibre cloth — that's it. On fabric and carpet you spray the cleaner on, work it in with a soft brush and pull the foam back off with a clean cloth. The key is to keep the surface damp, not soaked, especially on upholstery, because excess moisture takes ages to dry and can go musty. You'll find matching brushes and microfibre cloths in \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/zubehoer\"\u003eAccessories\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor an even result, a fixed routine helps. Lay 2 to 3 pulls onto one section of upholstery, let the foam work for 1 to 2 minutes, then pull it off before it dries on. On badly soiled seats, go over it a second time rather than flooding it on the first pass. For a full interior with 5 seats, door cards and carpet, set aside about 20 to 30 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe headliner is the trickiest surface in the car. It's only lightly glued, and too much liquid softens the adhesive so the fabric ripples. Here you don't spray straight onto the headliner — spray the cloth instead and work gently in one direction, no scrubbing. Afterwards, leave the cabin to air out properly with the doors open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few spots need extra attention. The air vents, the gaps between seat and centre console and the seatbelt webbing collect dust and grime that a cloth alone won't reach. A small detailing brush helps here, working the sprayed-on cleaner into the cracks. Rubber and floor mats are best taken right out of the car: spray them, let the foam work for 2 to 3 minutes, scrub them with the brush, then rinse and air-dry. The seatbelts in particular are best pulled all the way out and cleaned along their full length, because months of hand grime settle in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor plastic and fabric, not as leather care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe AutoInnenReiniger is a cleaner for plastic and fabric, not a care product for leather and no substitute for a proper leather clean followed by re-conditioning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can use it on leather for a rough clean, but it lacks the re-fatting care that keeps leather supple. If you want to keep leather seats clean and looked after, you're better off with a dedicated \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/lederreiniger\"\u003eleather cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e and a leather conditioner afterwards. Sensitive surfaces like Alcantara, real-wood trim or coated touchscreens — test them on a hidden spot first instead of going straight in over a large area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSorting it by the job helps here too. If you want to clean plastic and fabric across the whole interior, the AutoInnenReiniger is the right call. If it's leather care you're after, a dedicated leather line belongs in the car. And if the dashboard just needs freshening up and matting down with no real dirt, a conditioning cockpit dressing is the better fit. Three jobs, three products — and the AutoInnenReiniger is the cleaning all-rounder of the bunch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA few limits remain. Deeply dried-in old stains, ballpoint pen or soaked-in grease won't always come out 100 percent — that takes patience and often 2 to 3 passes. And the bottle wants to be stored frost-free so the surfactants stay stable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike a lot of shine sprays, this cleaner deliberately leaves no care film behind. Inside the car that's an advantage, because a glossy layer on the dash reflects in the windscreen in the sun and pulls in extra dust on top. If you want the satin-matt plastic look with a bit of protection, follow the clean with a separate cockpit dressing that doesn't clean but conditions and mattes. That keeps cleaning and care as two separate steps — and that's exactly what keeps the interior cleaner over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor the regular full interior clean\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe AutoInnenReiniger pays off for anyone who cleans their whole interior regularly and doesn't want to cart 3 different products around in the boot to do it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith kids, a dog or a lot of miles, crumbs, dust film and grip marks build up faster than you'd like, and an all-purpose cleaner takes the hassle out of interior care. It's less suited to anyone whose main thing is conditioning leather seats or looking for a protective seal on the plastic — those are different product categories. You'll find more cleaners for the interior in \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/innenraumreiniger\"\u003eInterior cleaners\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay to day, a thorough full clean every 4 to 6 weeks is plenty; in between, a quick wipe of the dashboard and touch points does the job. With the 500 ml spray bottle, 2 to 3 microfibre cloths and an upholstery brush you've got both routines covered, and you only use a few millilitres of product per clean. At normal soiling, one bottle stretches across several full interiors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA proven routine for the whole interior: start at the top and work down. Headliner and pillars first, then dashboard, door cards and centre console, then the seats, and the carpet and floor mats dead last. That way loosened dirt falls down onto surfaces you're going to clean anyway, and you don't do any spot twice. For a normally dirty interior this order takes about 30 to 40 minutes; on a car that's been neglected for ages, reckon on double.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trick the bottle won't tell you: always work fabric with the brush both across and along the grain, not just one way. That lifts the flattened pile back up, and afterwards the upholstery doesn't just look cleaner but more even and fuller than any spot-by-spot spraying will ever manage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":57405960323407,"sku":"D1-SNX-03212000","price":12.29,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger.png?v=1780348211"},{"product_id":"sonax-autoshampoo-konzentrat-autoshampoo","title":"AutoShampoo Konzentrat car shampoo","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eSONAX AutoShampoo Konzentrat washes without lifting the wax layer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is SONAX AutoShampoo Konzentrat? A pH skin-neutral hand-wash concentrate that pulls dirt off paint, glass, rubber and plastic without stripping an existing wax or sealant layer. Not for decontaminating before a fresh seal, and not a solvent for baked-on tar or bug splatter.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX AutoShampoo Konzentrat\u003c\/strong\u003e is a highly concentrated hand-wash shampoo from SONAX, built on especially gentle, pH skin-neutral surfactants. These surfactants wrap around dirt particles and lift them off the paint instead of rubbing them across it, and they leave the protection underneath alone. An existing wax or sealant layer stays intact while road film, dust and loose grime rinse away. Phosphate-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is exactly where a caring shampoo parts ways with a harsh all-purpose cleaner. An alkaline cleaner cuts through dirt faster, but it takes a bit of your wax or ceramic layer with it every single time. The pH-neutral concentrate works deliberately milder and lets the protection underneath stand. You don't see the difference after the first wash, but after the tenth, when water still beads on the bonnet instead of sheeting off flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne shampoo for five surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Lifts dirt off paint, rubber, plastic, vinyl and glass and leaves the wax or sealant layer underneath untouched. You don't need a second product for trim, windows or bumpers — you wash the whole car from one bucket of foam.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAbout 50 ml to 10 litres, and that's it.\u003c\/strong\u003e A bucket wash needs roughly 50 millilitres of concentrate. That makes the 2-litre bottle good for around 40 hand washes, the 5-litre canister for about 100. For foam lances and pressure washers you dilute 1:3 to 1:5 instead.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePhosphate-free and pressure-washer ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e The concentrate is formulated without phosphates and explicitly cleared for pressure washers and foam units too. One product covers both the bucket wash and the pre-wash foam, instead of two different bottles sitting on the shelf.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake is letting the foam dry on, especially in the sun or on a bonnet that's still warm right after a drive. If the shampoo dries on, you're left with surfactant and lime streaks that you then have to polish off the hard way. Wash in the shade, work panel by panel from top to bottom, and rinse each section before it dries off. What we see day-to-day: above 25 °C, go for two smaller passes rather than one big panel that dries out in the sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbout 50 ml to ten litres, don't let it dry on\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFoam up about 50 ml of SONAX AutoShampoo Konzentrat in 10 litres of warm water, wash top to bottom with a soft sponge, and don't let the foam dry on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe heavy grit gets rinsed off with water first, and that's not an optional step — it's your scratch protection. Loose sand and grit act like sandpaper under the sponge, and if you go at it dry, you rub fine wash marks into the clear coat. Use warm water, it cuts through grease and road film noticeably better than cold, and work the two-bucket method if you can: one bucket of foam, one with clean water to rinse the sponge. You'll find matching sponges, wash buckets and drying towels in the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/zubehoer\"\u003ewash accessories\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a foam lance or pressure washer, you pre-dilute the concentrate 1:3 to 1:5 into the container and follow the equipment maker's guidance. Whether it's a bucket or a lance, finish by rinsing with plenty of clean water and chamois it off quickly while the surface is still wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe drying stage is where you decide whether the wash really comes out spot-free. If the rinse water sits too long, dissolved minerals dry on as water spots, especially with hard tap water. Pull the water off quickly with a clean drying towel, ideally flat rather than with pressure, so no leftover grit drags across the paint. The beading on the final rinse also tells you, in passing, that your sealant has survived the wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003epH-neutral means gentle, not decontaminating\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutral concentrate keeps your existing protection but neither builds it up nor strips it down. For prepping paint before a fresh seal, it's the wrong tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe very property that makes the shampoo so useful day-to-day is also its limit. If you want to fully strip the paint before a new coating, you need a degreasing prep shampoo or a degreaser that deliberately takes the old wax residue back off. A pH-neutral shampoo leaves it standing on purpose. And it's no solvent either: baked-on tar, fallout or a dried-on bug crust need a dedicated remover product first. What we see day-to-day, a shampoo alone rarely cuts it for a bug-plastered front end.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt helps to sort things by the job, because there isn't one right shampoo — there are three types for three jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ctable\u003e\n  \u003cthead\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eShampoo type\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eJob\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003cth\u003eWhen it fits\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/thead\u003e\n  \u003ctbody\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003epH-neutral concentrate (this product)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003epreserve existing protection\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eregular care on wax- or ceramic-sealed paint\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSealant shampoo\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003erefresh gloss and protection at every wash\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ewhen the paint should pick up a bit of protection with each wash\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n    \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAcidic shampoo\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ebreak down water spots and lime\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ewith stubborn mineral residue\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor regular upkeep, the neutral concentrate is the all-rounder. If you want to refresh gloss and protection at every wash, you reach for a sealant shampoo from the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/lackversiegelung\"\u003epaint sealing\u003c\/a\u003e range. Two ground rules stay either way: don't use it on hot surfaces and never let it dry on, or you get streaks. And the canister belongs in frost-free storage — once it's frozen through, the surfactant structure changes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhether the protection still holds is easiest to check by the beading. As long as water runs off in round beads after the wash, the sealant is still there. If it sheets off flat instead, the protection has worn thin. The neutral shampoo hasn't worn it away then — it has only made the natural ageing visible. That's exactly the moment for a refresh, not for a harsher shampoo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor anyone who wants their protection to last for weeks\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAutoShampoo Konzentrat pays off for anyone who washes regularly by hand and wants to keep their wax or ceramic layer going for weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less suited to someone who's about to seal fresh and has to clean the paint bare first — they're better served by a decontaminating prep product. And anyone with no protection on the paint who's mainly after maximum gloss per wash gets a more visible result from a sealant shampoo. For the honest, weekly upkeep wash of a well-kept car, though, the neutral concentrate is the obvious pick, and it pairs with every other bottle from the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/autoshampoo\"\u003ecar shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice that means: a wash with the neutral concentrate once a week or every two weeks keeps paint and protection in balance, without overworking the sealant. Only once water no longer beads after the wash is it time to refresh the protection with a spray sealant — not before. That way you cleanly separate cleaning from preserving, instead of forcing both into one aggressive combo product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith the pack sizes, frequency makes the call. The 2-litre bottle with a screw cap is good for around 40 washes on one vehicle and is the easy way in. The 5-litre canister with a pour spout pays off from the second car on, or in weekly heavy use — about 100 washes per canister, simply decanted into a dosing bottle. Both are formulated phosphate-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who looks after several vehicles or washes for a club or fleet does best with the 5-litre canister. At around 50 ml per bucket, the cost per wash stays in the low cents, and you dose the concentrate exactly, instead of a ready-mixed wash solution taking up room in the canister. Decanted once into a small dosing bottle, the next bucket wash is set up in seconds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe point the back label won't tell you: a pH-neutral shampoo is the cheapest way to extend your sealant's life. Every wash with a harsh all-purpose or gloss shampoo costs you a bit of durability. With the protection-friendly concentrate you get around 40 washes out of a 2-litre bottle without using up the protection underneath. In the end the pricier sealant outlasts the shampoo that cares for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"2 liters","offer_id":57405962191183,"sku":"D1-SNX-03145410","price":10.29,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57405962223951,"sku":"D1-SNX-03145000","price":48.31,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-autoshampoo-konzentrat.png?v=1775381476"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.fr\/en\/collections\/sonax-waschen-reinigen.oembed?page=4","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}